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Post by doublechevron on Feb 1, 2017 10:27:41 GMT 10
That looks great. Where did you get the actual table top from ?
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 31, 2017 13:16:05 GMT 10
Shane whatever you do remember to make and fit a cover to the A/C for travel the grit etc that gets thrown up destroys them quickly plus stones hitting the condenser , the ones I helped fit we had a box cover made with extra foam in the front I have even seen one made with ply that was then used as a table when stopped Brilliant idea.... A hard cover, and hadn't thought of that. You would just need to add screw on legs or similar. Some foam sandwich panel would probably work well (very light and pre-painted)... I'll see if I can chase some up. seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 31, 2017 9:00:04 GMT 10
Well the exterier access doors arrived.... I really hate cutting into a nice unmarked caravan ... I just tried to trace around the hatch (there was no cuttout template included). I've owned this nibbler for probably 20years. And never really used it. There is always a cutting tool easier or better to use. It is made for the job of cutting cladding (using a modern cordless drill). You just drill a small hole and start cutting. Here is a hint. Have a look inside the caravan and see if there is a join in the plywood on the wall. If there is, rather than cutting through a spindly little upright in the frame.... You will be cutting through 3 uprights, joined together (4 times the thickness of wood) by hand. They do this so there isn't any movement between the sheets I'm guessing. While I had a big ugly hole hacked in the side of the caravan ... I thought I better see about adding that split system. I wanted to put it in the storage area under the bed. But the more I looked into this, the less I liked it. So finally decided I'd need to wall mount it. Which has complexities. I'm going to have to figure out a way of hiding the refrigerant lines, wiring and drain. I think I'll make a small "box" to surround the hoses with using the ply cuttout of the wall for the access hatches (so it matches hopefully). And doesn't look shithouse. We'll see I guess. This has involved me putting 4 visible screwholes into the wall of the caravan. If the A/C is ever removed you could plug them with plastic capped screws that match the caravan. The hard bit is getting the exact positioning right. there is many holes in the mounting bracket to get the height right, but the whole mount will need to be moved to move it sideways. This is the ONLY spot the head unit can fit without being in the arc of the bed folding up/down. I've decided this is the best place for the outside unit. I've chopped off the gas bottle and mounted it to a new length of RHS across the drawbar. The condenser unit fits really nicely there. I just need to lift it back off and paint the new frame up before finishing the plumbing and wiring condenser end. seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 31, 2017 8:45:32 GMT 10
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 27, 2017 22:55:34 GMT 10
well i bravely hacked holes into the caravan with a stanley knife. I traced around the existing frame with the knife so I didn't need to frame it. under the bed had chipboard re-enforcing, so I had to use the jigsaw ... So I'll need to put a couple of uprights in the opening to make sure it's strong enough (i'm sure it'll be fine, but why not be careful). The panels just look roughly hacked out bits of ply ............ because they are! I found this timber at bunnings.... as you can see it's already rebated at the back. It's about $9.00 for 3meters. Typical bunnings nuts. You'll need 10 lengths on the shelf to find one even remotely straight. IT's also all crappy 10cm lengths glued together to form a long length. It should look ok though. My brother saw what I was trying to do, and told me I need to make a 90 degree angle to sit the edge bits in to assemble. He also lent me his nice slide saw and staple gun. I just used his stapler to throw some staples through the thickest part after gluing it with wood glue. However I found the tension of the staples pulled the joints apart slightly. So I weighted it down and gave it overnight to dry. I stained them with some stain i had floating around... 'cos they were looking very grubby very quickly. Then I glued the panels in ... and weighted htem so they'd stay clamped overnight.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 27, 2017 14:16:10 GMT 10
Little "Kenny" is off to live in Melbourne with excited new owners. Why on earth did you sell it
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 14:30:03 GMT 10
Very clever, sorry I see your point now. Not many options, but just thinking out loud I would most likely look at having the bed head bottom section swing out under the bed (imagine you have a cupboard door there) to then get access to the items. Naturally you wouldnt have a wall on this side, so using a set of server sliders to bring it out would be best (not sure if this makes sense to you). This way you can access items with the bed assembled or not. Yes ... This is what I am in the process of trying to do. Fit a big internal door in teh "bed cupboard". Inside the door I'm going to mount the split system evap unit. The idea is it'll blow out of the storage box, and the big door will guide the air down the lenght of the 'van if left open at an angle. This will save me running piping up the wall of the caravan (which was problematic to do, as if the evap unit was mounted on the front wall of the caravan .... it would end up in the arc the bed swings through as it lowers... So you make the bed unusable). The outside doors were remarkably cheap given they come with locks. I'm just hoping they don't look out of place in the old 'van. seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 10:53:03 GMT 10
I bet when you pull the switches out there is only an active there ........................... I could be wrong, but that's how I've always noticed lights are wired It would probably pay to check before you spend considerably more on 2 pole switches. Oh... unless your re-wiring the caravan from scratch and have all of the cladding off ? seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 10:43:12 GMT 10
Oh, this should give a better idea of how the bed works So to access the "big box" under the head of the bed, you need to fold the bend down, remove the mattress and lift the base out. If I fit an external door we will have direct access to this storage area. Same deal with the rear bunk. The other bunk unit I'll fit an internal door too. I'll post some piccies of the internal access doors I've made when I get a chance. The problem is to use the internal access doors you need to crawl around on your knees.... I'm hoping hte kids dont' break them! As there at "kids swinging/leaning on them" height. seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 9:25:16 GMT 10
How do you get a double pole light switch .... often they only switch the active ....... No powerpoints, the will be need to be double pole
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 9:21:54 GMT 10
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 9:06:49 GMT 10
I am going to try something lowtech for my aircon project. Saw it on one of the caravan facebook pages Esky filled with ice , plumbing fitting and 12 v fan You can buy water coolers quite cheaply. If it's humid it'll probably be far from effective sadly But hey, it's better than nothing!
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 24, 2017 9:03:43 GMT 10
I've bought one of those bunnings fixed speed split systems. I'll probably install it sometime over the next week. So I'll let you know how it works. I'm just going to move the gas bottle onto a new crossmember that carries the condenser unit and bottle. I do have a lot more space to work with though. It comes with everything for the installation except the copper (which I have some of in the shed). Wiring and condesate drains are there. Last time I installed a split system I had to source my own drains and wiring.
I'm not a fan of rooftop A/C's.... I don't like the idea of all that weight swinging around up so high. They also seem to be noisy and not very effective.
seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 22, 2017 17:10:01 GMT 10
I'd be tempted to paint the spats the same colour as the top half of the car .... so different to the caravan stripes. seeya Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 11, 2017 21:37:06 GMT 10
YOu would need to look at the current draw of the fridge your interested in.....
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 11, 2017 9:17:26 GMT 10
That is genius!! Picture framing ... I would never have thought of that! Thanks, I'll pull a door off one of the cupboards and take upto bunnings and pick one that matches the best.
seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 10, 2017 9:36:13 GMT 10
With a little thought and with a sacrificial cupboard exhaust and water permanently plumbed and Venting, the portable reverse cycle unit could look and perform well, assuming the noise level is not excessive. Food for thought. Rattles I tried a cheap'ish portable air conditioner in the little Chesney caravan we used to have. I'd call it a water genrator. It generated lots of water and made absolutely no difference to the inside temperature of the caravan. It would blow a small amount of cold air from the front vent .... and generate 10 times more heat from the unit and exhaust pipe than it would cold air from the front vent. Hopeless and noisy in everyway. The quality models may be effective, but somehow I doubt it. My experience is the portables aren't worth a pinch of nuts A quality fan would be better and move far more air ... and be quieter seeya, shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 22:11:33 GMT 10
Yeah I agree, there's nowhere to mount it on that .... What a little rippa though !!
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 18:39:16 GMT 10
Just for you Shane That is spectacular ... I can see it from home. The network at work hides your pictures! It sure looks nice and level .... and well setup. I wouldn't have expected any issue with that Lets face it, were not towing at any high speeds with old cars! As an extra "safety" thing, you can't beat electric breaks too. If you fit electric brakes you can apply just the caravan brakes from the car.... So if she starts getting out of shape, you floor the towcar and apply the caravan brakes ..... pulling it instantly straight (especially so if your towing with a front wheel drive). seeya Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 15:38:32 GMT 10
Has anyone here tried one of those cheap fixed fan speed bunnings split system ? That is very cheap..... But is it so noisy boss women will just abuse me each time I turn it on Oh, the split system is not just a matter of screwing it in either. You will need to fold up pipes, flare them .... find a power point to plug it into (the small systems are way less than 10amps ... so just throw a 3 pin plug on it and plug it in!). You will also need a 'vac pump to purge all the air and moisture after it's all plumbed in .... Oh and make sure you run the condensate drains. Simple enough if the box has the install instructions inside! I wonder how well they would work, if you mounted the head unit down close to floor level and screwed it to the front of the caravans front couch (so you don't have to run pipes and wiring up the wall). seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 15:26:45 GMT 10
Shane in our motorhome as in our previous caravan we turned the underneath storage into drawer's using the existing face timber which was carefully removed and used to face the newly made drawers In both cases we had a cabinet maker do the job but it would be do able by a home handy man . The removal of the face sheets needs to be done with care but the rest is merely a matter of making the frame , slides and drawers fixing in place then re attach the facing all looks original and very usable for storage These caravans made in the 1980's ... are stapled together plywood crap ............. That somehow amazingly has lasted if it doesn't get physically damaged or wet (they all leaked). You wouldn't be able to remove the ply as you'd break it around all the staples. If (bloody big "if") you can cut a clean hole into the plywood with a jigsaw, I'm sure it could be framed, and your "cutout" section used in the door so it matches .... maybe I'm not very good at this sort of stuff! I've just been searching the bunnings website for something like skirting boards with a recessed back edge. The idea being you make a "frame" then staple the removed section into the middle of it from behind. You see you would need to recess your cuttout piece of ply to the back (no the front like the existing doors) as it is highly likely the "edge" will be rough, ugly, splintered and nowhere near pretty enough to have visible. By the way, has anyone tried that cheap $400 bunnings split system... I probably should throw one of them into the 'van while I'm at it. seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 14:50:52 GMT 10
That is an excellent point... I hadn't even thought of external wiring. Any uprights I'd leave there. I just want access, I don't mind if the uprights are in the way! There will be wiring there as there is reading lights and powerpoints in the "bed cupboard". I'll get a close up of the hinges seeya Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 13:31:55 GMT 10
I'm still trying to sort out an easy way to do it in my head .... That's not expensive! I'm thinking 2 doors down the long couch. None in the front couch (I could keep the annex and all it's bits 'n' pieces in here). I'm starting to think and outside access door for the big cupboards that is the foldout bed. You see that will allow me to slide the annex poles down the length of the front couch. We need possibly one big access door ( or 2 small ) for each bunk. seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 12:59:06 GMT 10
Hi Guys,
Our caravan has about 10 under seat storage boxes. ( one under each set of bunks at the back), a huge "L" shaped lounge with 6 cushions and about 6 lift out panels and the main fold up bed has a huge box under it).
To get to the storage area under the couch, you need to strip the cushions from the seats and lift out all of the fragile chipboard panels. With the bunks, you need to remove the bottom bunks mattress and lift out the two chipboard lift out sections. With the main bed, you have to fold the bed down, unmake the bed, remove the mattress and lift the two lift out sections out from the base.
Ideal would be 1/2 dozen "doors" that allow access to these areas. I'm thinking... cut the holes, frame the holes with some lightweight pine.... Then using some framing with a recessed inside edge place the original cut out section into the timber frame as a matching door ??
Does anyone else have any ideas. She's a lovely tidy original 'van inside, so I don't won't to damage any of the furniture, I'd like to keep the added doors "matching" the ugly 1980's look.
seeya, Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on Jan 9, 2017 11:14:24 GMT 10
Move the spare and the annexe to the back under the bed and you will improve on the ball weight. Try to keep the ball weight not over 10% and not less than 7% Have a look the tug specs just in case that you need to use a weight distribution hitch. I run a WDH because it is what Mitsubishi ask for ball weight over 90 Kg on the Magna. I always put the heavy stuff over the axle, not at either end. I don't care to much about tongue weight, so long as there is enough of it there. I only put very light weight stuff behind the axle. Have a look at a modern european 'van. They go to the extreme of mounting the spare tire and gas bottles over the axle and not putting front or rear boots on them (so people can't load heavy weights into them). seeya, Shane L.
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