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Post by tasmillard on Sept 4, 2016 18:10:58 GMT 10
Thank you both. Yes we have looked at options to assist supporting the edge but must admint I didnt think of your idea, may use that one me thinks  Great fathers day here also, so life is fantastic |
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 7, 2016 7:40:05 GMT 10
I will have another video about the floor fix soon, but what I have decided to do is use nuts and bolts around the edge of the floor and also more under the dinette seats, kitchen and bunks. This will give the structure more support and so the rivets used for the rest of the flooring will hopefully have more support, ie they wont start to break as the outer rivets break with chassis flexing/vibration (I am only assuming this may be the case).
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Post by Mustang on Sept 7, 2016 7:44:07 GMT 10
I will have another video about the floor fix soon, but what I have decided to do is use nuts and bolts around the edge of the floor and also more under the dinette seats, kitchen and bunks. This will give the structure more support and so the rivets used for the rest of the flooring will hopefully have more support, ie they wont start to break as the outer rivets break with chassis flexing/vibration (I am only assuming this may be the case). Great idea, & this will give you peace of mind, I would extend the idea to heavy traffic areas as well. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2016 7:53:15 GMT 10
Yes, that will be good using countersunk bolts so they do not interfering with the floor covering.
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 7, 2016 8:04:44 GMT 10
I looked at this option but unfortunately I cant find 3/16" counter sunk bolts that have a wide head that is of the same diameter as the rivets. So for the meantime ill use the rivets but as I have tiles I can peel back to replace if required.
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Post by 78466noM on Sept 8, 2016 11:15:05 GMT 10
I found the rivets from the hardware store are too short I had to order them though if you have a fastener store near you they should have them I got lazy and ordered them off ebay I had to measure ply and the steel it was going though and ordered them with a clamping force designed for that thickness
If you want to use nuts and bolts small dome head bolts and use nylock nuts or double nut the top of the dome nut should just get level with floor but will need some one inside to say stop as it gets to the right spot I used these these on the sides of the chesney kamper we rebuilt.
Bruce
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 8, 2016 15:52:31 GMT 10
Hi Bruce - did it all and pretty much you got it. Got the nuts/bolts from Bunnings that fitted nicely and the rivets from a specialist supplier, so all good. Only a few rivets left (all nuts/bolts put in place) to complete the task.
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Post by atefooterz on Sept 8, 2016 21:57:37 GMT 10
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Post by 78466noM on Sept 9, 2016 0:26:25 GMT 10
Good to hear all is going well for you it is always good when things go together without a hitch Bruce |
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 9, 2016 7:31:03 GMT 10
Ok, pretty much sone the floors. Theres a few I missed when looking under the van but ill get to them today. Here is the process I took.
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 9, 2016 17:46:04 GMT 10
Well had a productive day today. I got under the van and cleaned all the chassis with a drill/wirebrush, vacuumed (before it finally broke) and air compressor to clean out the dirt in the hard to get places. Now the entire lot is dirt/gravel free and ready for a wipe down and paint. I also replaced the rear tail lights with new ones and removed/clean and replaced the number plate holder. Im buggered now!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2016 19:35:56 GMT 10
Bugger! you should have call me for help or even for having a cupa.
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Post by atefooterz on Sept 9, 2016 19:40:35 GMT 10
Regardless of what product you plan on painting with i recomend wipeing with rust converter first, just a cheapie no need for the fancy self primer ones. Wipe on leave a few minutes ( depending on tem & humidity) then wipe clean. Allow at laest one day till whatever you are planing as a surface finish. My Mitsi 1985 L300 has been a great learning curve over the decades since i got it in 1997. Everything from all the kill rusts to cold gal spray and more tried & tested. Most of its earlier life was covered in salt water from my boat & i lived opposite, between the Sydney heads (Balgowlah Heights)so night dew & rain deposited more salt. The better than 10 year results have been the basic rust converter wipe then anything from 2 coats of gloss enamel ( oil based) to hammertone, both without undercoat. I love winning bets against kill rust fanatics, i got burned with more cost for the kill rust pots than my pushbike was worth... only to get a few years out of it before the good ol ferrous stuff returned. |
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 9, 2016 20:30:51 GMT 10
Bugger! you should have call me for help or even for having a cupa. I gave you a rest day |
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Post by 78466noM on Sept 10, 2016 11:33:18 GMT 10
Good advice from atefootez just be careful around the rivets it is usually acid based so that it bites in. I did mine before I replaced all the rivets so I just used throw away cloths and goggles then a trigger spray bottle from a grocery store garden section had to do it twice because the on the planed day for paint it rained so it was over a month before I got back to it.The way I did it it left a thick coating not pretty but effective the way atefooterz said will leave a nice clean surface and be just as effective as mine but a much better looking paint job. I wish I had known to wipe it off after a little while even after spraying it would have only taken me an extra hour tops and given me a much much better finish. Bruce  |
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 10, 2016 11:59:57 GMT 10
Thanks atefooterz and 78466noM - shall look at doing this. The chassis has been painted in the past, so luckily it aint that bad really. Its more a clean up and touch-up really.
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Post by atefooterz on Sept 10, 2016 23:22:46 GMT 10
Thanks atefooterz and 78466noM - shall look at doing this. The chassis has been painted in the past, so luckily it aint that bad really. Its more a clean up and touch-up really. Those are the best ones to keep good. Once chunks are gone.. they are not there anymore! |
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Post by Mustang on Sept 11, 2016 7:34:51 GMT 10
Another great video with solid advice. I used a standard rivet gun??? could only manage a few a day  Makes you wonder how many time bombs are zipping along the highway (new & old)?? |
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 11, 2016 12:31:44 GMT 10
Yes, I think not many people think about the flooring condition. So I spent yet another few hours on the floor applying rust converter on the draw bar and chassis... what a pain in the proverbial job! I remember the Millard was equally painful, except the viscount has more chassis! Anyway its done and at the very least provides initial protection. I did notice that that the z type steel plate that sits next to the bottom j-rail that bolts onto the outer frame and also has the floor ply attached to it has severe rust (near the door area). This will need to be replaced, but not sure if you can get these or need someone to fabricate a piece. To replace it, it seems that ill have to remove the bottom j-rail, undo some cladding rivets and then try get behind the cladding to get to the nut on the other end. Else, ill have to make some holes in the internal wall which I dont want to do.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2016 12:35:08 GMT 10
When the reno it is finish she will last another 50 years thing that we cannot expect from some of the new caravans.
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Post by 78466noM on Sept 11, 2016 20:51:52 GMT 10
You will have to get it made up it will most likely be much longer than you need so if you cut one piece the size you need then one approximately 200mm longer weld the small piece to the large piece then in the end pieces drill the amount of holes you need to attach and weld nuts behind that way you will not have to damage interior walls as nuts will be held firmly by welds. Ideal would be weld in new piece but timber and welding don't go very well together and the fire could start very easy were you can't see it.So your way is a much better solution.
Forgot to add after pieces are ready to go in clamp or hold in place and drill holes together so all holes are a match.When you weld nuts to back put bolt in to hold nut tight to plate you will probably need new bolts after due to weld splatter. Hope this is a help to you .
Bruce
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 12, 2016 6:46:12 GMT 10
Thanks Bruce. yes this will be tricky but im leavimg it till later. i have in the meantime soaked the area with fish oil to hopefully slow down the rust. I will also check if and how the nuts re secured, with any luck they will be!
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Post by 78466noM on Sept 13, 2016 11:05:41 GMT 10
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Post by tasmillard on Sept 17, 2016 18:16:13 GMT 10
We had some good weather so my father and I got stuck into doing the j-rails... although we only got to do one as we then focused on removing the dreaded bitumen tape. What a PITA this stuff is! Took us hours just to remove 1/2 of it today and we spent from 7am to just before 5pm on it. Of course, as always here is proof of the fun we had...
Tomorrow, if the weather holds out, removing more bitument tape is in order. Then we can get back to the j-rails.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2016 19:27:30 GMT 10
That was a hard work but happy with the outcome.
I believe that what was under the rails was mastic sealant tape AKA Butyl putty tape, which it is commonly used for this application together with lap sealant to seal the edges and the tape inside.
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