andy
In Training
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Post by andy on Aug 15, 2017 20:59:25 GMT 10
I'm new and a complete caravan novice (reasonably experienced with housing renovations and building though). Ive just acquired a dilapidated 1974 viscount royal which will require extensive renovation. All the interior needed to be completely stripped due to prolonged neglect. The roof structure seems quite flimsy. My question is: is there any reason the roof 'beams' shouldn't be fixed to the exterior cladding, eg with silicon where my fingers are in the picture? I imagine that if the beams were fixed to both the cladding and then to the ply ceiling the whole structure would be much stronger. www.flickr.com/gp/150794484@N03/5293na |
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 15, 2017 21:41:35 GMT 10
I have just acquired a very dilapidated old van which will need extensive renovation after prolonged neglect. Here's a pic of it being picked up. I will no doubt need to ask lots of questions during the process as I am a complete caravan novice. www.flickr.com/gp/150794484@N03/xGq735 |
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Post by Mustang on Aug 16, 2017 6:57:12 GMT 10
Hi Andy,
Welcome to the forum, another Viscount always welcome.
Just ask away & view other members threads, unfortunately the recent behavior of Photobucket has wiped out most images.
Some members are repairing their thread with new images.
There is a Flickr tutorial in General, you are close to being able to publish your image rather than a link. (I downloaded your delivery)
Cheers
Brent
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 16, 2017 7:48:18 GMT 10
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 20, 2017 20:59:31 GMT 10
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 20, 2017 21:02:55 GMT 10
So the body is off the chassis - fair bit of repair work required for the chassis. I'm interested to hear opinions on whether it is best to replace axles/springs etc with all new components or try to use what's there. Also the drop down axle - is it best to change for straight axle for a bit better clearance.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2017 7:55:07 GMT 10
Nice project, it will keep you out of trouble for few months  I replaced the axle for straight one with new components and thing that was one of the best mods done in the Franklin. If you can do it and go for electric brakes as well. Thanks for sharing. |
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Post by snoops on Aug 21, 2017 20:15:10 GMT 10
Looking forward to seeing this beauty bought back.  |
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Post by snoops on Aug 22, 2017 5:04:29 GMT 10
Oh, missed your question sorry. Not sure why the roof beams aren't attached to the roof cladding to be honest, although if you stick them down use a polyurethane adhesive like Sikalfex rather than silicone - it will do a much better job long term and is designed as an adhesive for exactly these type of application.
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Post by 78466noM on Aug 22, 2017 9:32:05 GMT 10
as gitano suggested If you are going to change the axles go for the 45mm ones and four electric brakes if the springs and hangers are in good condition just refurbish with new bushes and grease-able shackle bolts also do the u-bolts and mount plates make sure you get one made for your axle size as the multi fit aren't very good the u-bolts when I used them seemed to be bent a fraction.
and it is a good idea to change the center bolts in springs while it is just a chassis it is a ideal time.
stay safe and have fun
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 22, 2017 13:21:43 GMT 10
Thanks for the input. The 'z' rails along the side of the van need replacing - I imagine that sort of thing needs to be fabricated rather than being available to buy anywhere?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2017 13:34:18 GMT 10
This will be a good opportunity to insulate well the van.
is nice to start with a "clean canvas" instead of fixing patches here and there.
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Post by Zippo on Aug 22, 2017 18:36:25 GMT 10
Thanks for the input. The 'z' rails along the side of the van need replacing - I imagine that sort of thing needs to be fabricated rather than being available to buy anywhere? You can get a fabrication shop to fold some up (get more than you need just in case you need to redo any sections and maybe use Gal - but gal is bad for your health to weld). What I did was use angle and stich it together with a MIG along the centre joint to form the L and then mig'ed it to the ends of the chassis. The angle being a bit thicker is easier to weld. Most likely you will need to replace the bottom rail for the walls as they will be rotted, so make the z section and then make a new wooden rail to fit the gap. I used angle and then had some hardwood planed to fit the gap. Unlikely to ever rot again and the angle is thicker so it will take forever rust again. Paint everything before it goes in. |
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Post by 78466noM on Aug 23, 2017 8:16:10 GMT 10
As Zippo said mine was C-section I had it folded at a metal shop out of 2.0mm plate and got more than I needed as your chassis is out when fixed painted with cold gal or etch primer and end-rust type of paint every one has their favorite. I done like the presser packs as like it to go on thicker. while it is out check all the original welds sometimes they crack or in my case one or two may be missed altogether. have fun there is a ton of work but the end result will be worth it |
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 23, 2017 14:31:15 GMT 10
as gitano suggested If you are going to change the axles go for the 45mm ones and four electric brakes if the springs and hangers are in good condition just refurbish with new bushes and grease-able shackle bolts also do the u-bolts and mount plates make sure you get one made for your axle size as the multi fit aren't very good the u-bolts when I used them seemed to be bent a fraction. and it is a good idea to change the center bolts in springs while it is just a chassis it is a ideal time. stay safe and have fun With the electric brakes - 10"or 12" ? |
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Post by Mustang on Aug 24, 2017 8:13:38 GMT 10
If you go for brakes on 4 x wheels I would think 10" would suffice, but there is probably little difference in price.
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Post by 78466noM on Aug 24, 2017 10:07:00 GMT 10
As Mustang suggested 10inch unless you want to go to four wheel drive rims and tyres but with the four wheel drive rims and tyres you may end up with clearance problems and the extra height could make it unpleasant to tow as the higher the weight the more it will want to rock in cross winds.
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Post by Zippo on Aug 24, 2017 17:48:13 GMT 10
The answer to the brakes is easy - 10" brakes ~ 14" wheels, 12" brakes ~ 15" wheels. Unless you are aiming for 3000KG's, 4 x 10" will work. If you replace the axles as well, get them with parallel bearings (use the same bearings for the inner and outer). They are higher weight rated as a pair and you only need to worry about 1 part number / spare.
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Post by 78466noM on Aug 26, 2017 1:42:59 GMT 10
If I had known about that type of axle before I replaced mine the millard would have had one not for the extra weight but they would have to to less prone to failing as long as maintenance is carried out.
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Post by Zippo on Aug 26, 2017 6:54:27 GMT 10
If I had known about that type of axle before I replaced mine the millard would have had one not for the extra weight but they would have to to less prone to failing as long as maintenance is carried out. It's interesting the way the axles are advertised. To get the parallel bearing setup, you have to pick an axle that might be a lot more weight capacity than you need. They just use the 'Ford' inner bearings for both bearings. Only trap is if you need to replace a pair on a Sunday, places like Supercheap don't carry the kit with the 2 bigger bearings - only the normal big / small set. You would have to throw away the smalls. Not a problem at good bearing supply places - and they have better quality bearings and double lip seals. (The new axle kits seem to have lower quality bearings in the kits but offer an upgrade to Japanese bearings as an upgrade - take the upgrade  ) |
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Aug 28, 2017 23:42:05 GMT 10
If I were to replace axles/springs - how do I know what weight rating to choose? I gather you don't want it to be over or under rated - but I don't know how much the van weighs (or will weigh after Reno).
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Post by Mustang on Aug 29, 2017 7:32:33 GMT 10
A 45mm solid will be rated to 1500kg so two of those would suffice for a Viscount chassis.
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Post by pisces51 on Aug 29, 2017 9:47:32 GMT 10
G'day Andy, a very rough guide to the theoretical tare weight of your van, is to measure the length of the cabin in Feet, and multiply by 60kgs for a van that is 8ft wide. Just measure the length along the bottom of the brown/orange stripe along the side of the van. For example, if the cabin length is 20 ft, then the tare weight is roughly 20 x 60kgs = 1200kgs. Then add another 100kgs for the second axle+wheels, so 1200 + 100 = 1300kgs. That figure would be a rough guide for a van straight out of the factory. If you end up making plenty of modifications, and adding additional weight, then you will obviously go higher than that. For a tandem axle van, the registration authorities will typically give the van a loading allowance of 400kgs or thereabouts, so your Aggregate Trailer Mass will end up being about 1300 + 400 = 1700kgs. *Aggregate Trailer Mass (ATM) is the weight of the fully loaded trailer (caravan) when NOT hooked up to a tow vehicle. cheers, Al. Edit: I was originally looking in your posts to see if you had stated the length of the van. I eventually realised it is shown in the heading of the thread.  22ft x 60kgs = 1320, plus 100 = 1420kgs tare weight |
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Post by 78466noM on Aug 29, 2017 9:58:17 GMT 10
As Mustang said 45mm solid axles will be fine if you want to keep it at the same height and the both axles have brakes measure axle if it is 45mm a good glean and paint may be all it needs as long as stubs are in good condition. If you want to lift it by about two inches new straight axles but get some one help with the measuring as I was on my own and miscalculated I ended up with an extra long axle and had to pay for a second axle.
With the new axles you will need new adapter plates and center bolt pads welded on and you may need new backing plates and drums if yours are the same stud pattern on the adapter plates as what the original were on my millard. I'm not sure but I think you can still get all the parts to refurbish your original brakes ask a trailer parts supplier they should be able to tell you.
I hope this helped
My axle was changed to upgrade the brakes from eight inch to nine inch mechanical than later I decided to go ten inch electric just be sure if you change axels that they are solid axles and not stubs welded into rhs.
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andy
In Training
Posts: 19
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Post by andy on Sept 3, 2017 20:35:23 GMT 10
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