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Post by bogwot on Apr 27, 2017 11:47:46 GMT 10
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Post by Mustang on Apr 27, 2017 16:52:08 GMT 10
Original wheel trim/s in place may not have done road miles. Barnes of Sydney will remake the log cabin cladding, but you may want to change.
The surrogate roof seems to have prevented water ingress, in the ceiling but the bays have leaked on to the internal frame, rarely did Viscount use hardwood there , usually shortcuts of ply made up as a beam. have a look at our restoration, we had the identical problem both ends. Good luck , keep us posted. cheers Brent
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Post by bogwot on Apr 29, 2017 8:25:31 GMT 10
Original wheel trim/s in place may not have done road miles. Barnes of Sydney will remake the log cabin cladding, but you may want to change. The surrogate roof seems to have prevented water ingress, in the ceiling but the bays have leaked on to the internal frame, rarely did Viscount use hardwood there , usually shortcuts of ply made up as a beam. have a look at our restoration, we had the identical problem both ends. Good luck , keep us posted. cheers Brent I will collect from Brisbane. Closer for the pickup. We also had issues with water at both ends. I replaced the timber with a decking timber. Shouldn't rot quickly. We had a tilt tray truck go to collect the van yesterday and he wasn't able to load it as it was too long for his tray....Miscommunication from their part and mine I think. He includes the Draw Bar as part of the length. I don't. So he will have to go back next week and collect the van with a longer trayed truck. More expense. I just hope it's not a 24 footer. We will have to sell it. He told me it was 8.5 metres long.
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Post by bogwot on May 5, 2017 12:35:12 GMT 10
Well had the old girl delivered today. The wheels, as you can see, are stuffed. Not hard to replace. Just standard 14" rims. The roof is a little shabby, although no leaks so far. There doesn't seem to have much water damage inside, so that's a bonus. Overall not too bad. The main damage is on the drawbar. I think when the previous owner moved the van so we can collect it he bent and damaged the bar. Perhaps I could get a bar a little longer to make reversing a little easier. I don't know yet. Will have to find out especially as the only evidence of it's existence is the chassis number. I will ask Main Roads for their advice. So all I have to do is to finish the one I am currently working on and then start with her. Here are a few pics: A High Rise roof. Very trendy No curved windows at the rear. Privacy for the shower and toilet The roof does look good Does this make it a 1976 year? On the truck with the 'roof' on. Interestingly, that roof is aluminium frams and cladding. Could be useful in the future
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Post by Mustang on May 5, 2017 19:59:25 GMT 10
Looks like a 1976 Supreme. When you come to have a look at the window locks I would be interested to talk to you about them.
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Post by 78466noM on May 7, 2017 1:03:14 GMT 10
She looks good . careful with extending the draw-bar it will make it harder to put weight onto the tow-ball and make it harder to maneuver it around tight streets in caravan parks etc.That is the main reason that when I had mine replaced I left it the original size.
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Post by tasmillard on May 8, 2017 8:28:27 GMT 10
Nice - looking forward to your build.
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Post by bogwot on May 11, 2017 13:21:51 GMT 10
She looks good . careful with extending the draw-bar it will make it harder to put weight onto the tow-ball and make it harder to maneuver it around tight streets in caravan parks etc.That is the main reason that when I had mine replaced I left it the original size. Good advise, thanks. How did you go with the chassis number? What proof did you supply?
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Post by 78466noM on May 12, 2017 1:06:24 GMT 10
just kept the original plate if yours is welded on just weld or have it welded on if you replace the draw bar as you will already have a bill of sale with the number on it or I assume the seller put the number on it.If it is only the front plate that the hitch bolts to that has rusted and the rest of the c section is in good condition right though just having that plate replaced may be all that is needed. the c section looks to be 4mm thick in the pic's have fun.
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Post by bogwot on Jun 13, 2017 9:25:16 GMT 10
Well it looks like I am going to have the same problems registering this van as I did the another one. I don't have rego papers and it looks like it was registered in another state. Looked at other states and NSW came back as a hit....Only trouble is, it's a different trailer. Came up as a box trailer with an ATM of 750kg. And it is still registered! How can there be more than one vehicle with the same Chassis Number? Life wasn't meant to be easy, so they say. Can anyone give me a guess on it's ATM? When I had it delivered on the till tray truck, I had him go over a weigh bridge and it came back at around 1800kg, slightly empty. BUT she is a beauty. High rise roof. Shower and toilet. Am going to enjoy renovating this one.
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Post by 78466noM on Jun 13, 2017 9:50:00 GMT 10
That is one large can of worms seems every government department has a different way of coming up with an ATM will be best to get in touch with your local department of registration hope it isn't like what NSW's has don and roll everything into one as now there is no-one there with any knowledge about anything.
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Post by bogwot on Jun 26, 2017 8:47:34 GMT 10
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Post by bogwot on Jun 26, 2017 8:51:02 GMT 10
I am getting a new draw bar as this one is broken. 5 x 2 inch and extending the length another 200 or 300mm. Am getting new suspension to suit 3 tonne load with brakes on all wheels I can then get it replated by an engineer for around 2.6 tonne.
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Post by Mustang on Jun 26, 2017 9:07:58 GMT 10
I am getting a new draw bar as this one is broken. 5 x 2 inch and extending the length another 200 or 300mm. Am getting new suspension to suit 3 tonne load with brakes on all wheels I can then get it replated by an engineer for around 2.6 tonne. Very sensible. The next project for me will start the same way, chassis, suspension, brakes first. When we wanted to upgrade, our engineer requested 6 x stud wheels with 4WD bearings, as we came in at 1360kg fully laden we opted to leave it. We also had ours glass blasted & painted, you cannot get to all those corners with a wheel. Good investment. Keep your images coming. Brent
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Post by 78466noM on Jun 26, 2017 9:44:04 GMT 10
looks excellent mine copped about 4 goes with rust converter funny thing was the drivers side had been eaten away by the tin worm but every thing in from the main rail to the passenger side was just a very fine surface rust and by the time I did the chassis it was not mobile so no option for me. your chassis shouldn't give you any problems other than the odd stone chip now
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Post by bogwot on Jun 29, 2017 8:39:53 GMT 10
looks excellent mine copped about 4 goes with rust converter funny thing was the drivers side had been eaten away by the tin worm but every thing in from the main rail to the passenger side was just a very fine surface rust and by the time I did the chassis it was not mobile so no option for me. your chassis shouldn't give you any problems other than the odd stone chip now It made sense to get the sand blasting done. At least I know the job was done properly. I have been stripping the roof the last couple of days. What a job! It looks like the factory covered every seal joint with a 'bog' of some sort. It hardened and is a bugger to get off. I will put a couple of pics up to show. Seeing as I am taking off all the cladding I am wanting all the frame to be free of any bog so when I put it all together again it should seal well. That's the theory at least. I was reading the post on Brake connectors and using the Bootlace ferrule. I can't how you are able to join more than 2 wires together and what about the metal on the Ferrule, how do you insulate it? I do like the product for joining into a screwed situation. ie wiring connector at the front of the van to the car.
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Post by 78466noM on Jun 29, 2017 9:30:32 GMT 10
I can't help with the wiring but I did use the mine are just soldered and heat shrink tube. But I did use the wire connectors on the end of the wire rope used on the handbrake to stop it unfurling and becoming a mess. Be carefull with the stuff that looks like bog it will most likely be dried mastic and as I have read after I did mine it may contain asbestos try no wire wheels and wear a mask use a wet cloth and a scraper not sure if paint stripper or something will loosen it up. have fun and stay safe.
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Post by bogwot on Jun 29, 2017 10:59:17 GMT 10
I can't help with the wiring but I did use the mine are just soldered and heat shrink tube. But I did use the wire connectors on the end of the wire rope used on the handbrake to stop it unfurling and becoming a mess. Be carefull with the stuff that looks like bog it will most likely be dried mastic and as I have read after I did mine it may contain asbestos try no wire wheels and wear a mask use a wet cloth and a scraper not sure if paint stripper or something will loosen it up. have fun and stay safe. Hehe I am dead!!! Wire wheels work like a charm.
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Post by bogwot on Jun 29, 2017 11:16:11 GMT 10
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Post by Mustang on Jun 29, 2017 16:41:12 GMT 10
Hi Steve, Appears you have moved your images around where you host them, & the link has been severed.
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Post by bogwot on Jun 29, 2017 18:33:33 GMT 10
Hi Steve, Appears you have moved your images around where you host them, & the link has been severed. Sometimes you have a brain snap. I did as I renamed the folder that all the photos were stored in. I wondered if it would cause a problem....I am now trying to rename it back to what it was. Not an easy exercise
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Post by bogwot on Jun 29, 2017 18:36:10 GMT 10
There we go.......
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Post by Mustang on Jun 30, 2017 17:40:14 GMT 10
Moving along at a heady pace!!!!! I guess when you have a couple under your belt (van renos) its not so daunting? I used this product on my roof: Also I sprayed it on the front to hide the skwillion stone chips then painted over the Global coat. $160.00 5litres of top coat, 2litres of undercoat. The product has the consistency of watery yogurt so it goes a long way.
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Post by bogwot on Jul 1, 2017 7:31:48 GMT 10
Moving along at a heady pace!!!!! I guess when you have a couple under your belt (van renos) its not so daunting? I used this product on my roof: Also I sprayed it on the front to hide the skwillion stone chips then painted over the Global coat. $160.00 5litres of top coat, 2litres of undercoat. The product has the consistency of water yogurt so it goes a long way. Interesting product. For my first van reno I bought a product which cost $450 and really wasn't impressed. With the last 2 vans I have used Wattyl Paint over a primer coat. Covered really well. I am favouring using the same with this one. I really can't believe the amount of bog the factory put on all the seams though. I suppose they didn't think some idiot some 40 plus years later would attempt the removal.
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Post by bogwot on Jul 1, 2017 7:39:43 GMT 10
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