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Post by 78466noM on Nov 8, 2016 1:14:50 GMT 10
I didn't think of gluing it. It does make a big difference we have had a few fairly warm days open a couple of windows on the shady side temp drops nicely where with no insulation i could have roasted the Christmas turkey in there  |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 8, 2016 7:01:08 GMT 10
Good to know that it works well. I glued it on to make it easier to put the ceiling ply sheets and walls back on too.
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Post by murray on Nov 8, 2016 11:18:47 GMT 10
Does this man ever sleep !!!
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 8, 2016 16:12:14 GMT 10
lol murray.
Feels like I have not in a while... got a looming deadline to meet!
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Post by 78466noM on Nov 9, 2016 0:01:11 GMT 10
I found once I put the 4mm ply on walls there was a major difference the test will be if I use the small air-con off the battery how long I can use before I have to charge it. looks like blankets for winter free camping a heater will suck too much power.
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Post by Mustang on Nov 9, 2016 6:52:44 GMT 10
We have old & new, they all become ice boxes in the right conditions.
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 9, 2016 18:52:01 GMT 10
As I mentioned, here is the insulation install vid.
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Post by atefooterz on Nov 9, 2016 22:17:05 GMT 10
Some yardstick temps are, via a 16`factory 75 Arrow with Target block out curtains over lace that does nothing. Winter with one body heat. Sunset ext temp 7c interior 10c: Sunrise ext temp 0c interior 8c: Sunset ext temp 12c interior 14c: Sunrise ext temp 1c interior 10c: This is with windows just ajar & four seasons hatch 1/2 open all around. Wind max 2-3klm ( less than 1knot) When windy by shutting off access on that side then with no air flow then liveable interior temp available. This winter i had a homemaker lightweight polyester blanket plus my late Mum`s crocheted wool blanket that with normal cotton unbrushed pj worked well with the warm air trapped in crochet holes under the blanket/ sheets. Trick as always to layer up or down, when outside to inside and get that body doing what it is supposed to do. No colds nor flu for 2 years now! Summer Max ext temp 32c interior 28c: Max ext temp 26c interior 24c: From the extremes of 42c to mid 30c a lot depends on overnight temps and shade. In QLD i had no shade and morning sun heating from sunrise, this meant that the cabin was at 26c in 28c and overnight may get down to 22c (running a 40cm fan) My previous NSW haunt i had no shade on the west so the late afternoon would turbo heat, just putting cushions over most of the 2 windows that side helped so on those 40c days inside would hit 38c by sunset. Luckily there being high would get down to 12-14 overnight so with venting a pleasant sleep & wake up to 16c ish. During Spring/ late winter it was amusing as i stayed under the cover and 16c nose temp then go outside to discover 20- 23c and ripping off layers. If you are active & not climbing out of bed at mid day then i am sure tiz not applicable.  Recently (see display pic showing front facing west) with only about 1/2 hour speckled sun in the mornings then trees hiding the brunt of it until limited western sun late arvo, in the recent 31c days, it maxed out at 26c inside ( with fan). I would love to try out that insulation paint for later in summer ( with most sun overhead) as i already know that when it is 38-42c it will be 34-36c inside.  |
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Post by 78466noM on Nov 10, 2016 0:04:24 GMT 10
I have the insulation paint for the roof mainly because it is uv resistant and a sealer this will hopefully seal out the elements from the mastic . with the earthwool in the roof I am not expecting any noticeable extra insulating but am hoping for extra life from the mastic as the van lives outside and the roof is the hadest hit with dirt and dust rain and hot and cold .
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 10, 2016 5:38:24 GMT 10
Great comparo of temps ate's... unfortunately i dont have recorded temps to compare.
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Post by Mustang on Nov 10, 2016 7:43:17 GMT 10
Our house (qld) was insulated properly with the govt handout, most summer days the temps only vary about 1/2 degrees.
The insulation is more effective in winter.
So I guess we are asking a lot for a caravan to be cool because we put an inch of barrier in the walls??
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2016 8:29:55 GMT 10
Regarding insulation in houses yes it is important, Aircel helped my house in Moore Park Beach but the most important was the orientation and design.
In one shipping container used as storage/shed combo in Childers, also in Qld we painted the roof of the container with the special paint used on RV.
During the sunny days I was unable to touch the walls because they were so hot by I was able to touch the ceiling without any problem.
If I am not selling the Franklin I will paint the roof with that paint/membrane which I also used in my old motorhome.
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Post by atefooterz on Nov 10, 2016 23:35:30 GMT 10
It is worth having 2 thermometers. Most seem to just use air con or heaters, so no real baseline. At the South Aussie show i noticed the un insulated caravan next to me suffered as we had no shade & up to 41c days. With folks now changing out the styro we should find out what the latest allum & or closed cell products do. Apart from a better fire rating.
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 14, 2016 11:09:54 GMT 10
I had to organise my garage to fit a workbench in there to work on cutting out the ply, given the rain down here wont let up! However, we should be getting mid 20's by end of the week so I am planning on putting all the walls back on. If I can achieve this, then all thats left is the ceiling ply and the hatch.
Mind you, with the rain I spotted a leak on the roof hatch corner, where the alloy meets the other sheet. Even tho I already put sealant on there, water has founds its way through from what I can see is being a lose rivet!! I knew when I took the hatch out that I would be unsettling the area and would need to reseal, but this just confirms it. Goes to show that even the smallest hole will let water in. Interestingly, it is the same corner that has rotted the masonite ceiling so perhaps there is a fab flaw in that corner.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2016 12:15:02 GMT 10
IMO it is very hard to keep waterproof a caravan body which it is no painted. Any minuscule hole will let water come in. Mine, with 4 coats of paint in the roof is very dry.
Perhaps the best to to in the Viscount with bare roof will be top paint the roof with that paint/membrane that help with insulation and also keep the water out.
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Post by atefooterz on Nov 14, 2016 22:01:42 GMT 10
The thickness of a rivet compared to the thin cladding means a different expansion rate, a windy day and an almost invisible particle of grit settles in an open less than hair thickness hole, next expansion a hard spot may start off a macroscopic crack, not easily visible but enough to allow some dew in. After a while enough moisture is inside to allow capillary action. A single water drop, one time, on the floor is dismissed.Some dust in that drop joins up with the grit piece while drying out. A year or two later a few drops get noticed... Ever seen a tinny (alloy) runabout with waterproof rivet joins?  Viynl & or sublatex paints are a blokes best friend, with roofing membranes. |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 15, 2016 6:45:59 GMT 10
I think this is the case with the walls as I have put in some new rivets. I will use mastic next time when inserting rivets as I have done with the back section. As for the roof, I know what the issue is and ill fix that when I get to the hatch rebuild.
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Post by 78466noM on Nov 15, 2016 9:55:23 GMT 10
I know it is somewhere in your thread but couldn't find what type of rivets you used . I was sure you were using the sealed end rivets though you do get the odd one of those that crack the casing when being compressed I hope I found all of mine about 15-20 out of upteen hundreds. the bigger ones seemed to be the worst offenders the thicker case maybe. Replacing rivets a second time is a pain but there are much harder things to do. Looking good hope the rain holds of for you to get done what you want to. no use cleaning my shed at the moment not enough room to swing a mouse have to keep shifting kids toys and every thing else to one corner of the covered area out back.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2016 12:38:19 GMT 10
The poor old Viscount has so many rivets that I think that we can name it Dakotaa popular name for the DC3 planes that have millions of blind rivets on it.
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Post by atefooterz on Nov 15, 2016 12:50:05 GMT 10
The poor old Viscount has so many rivets that I think that we can name it Dakotaa popular name for the DC3 planes that have millions of blind rivets on it. Up to recent times even Jumbo jets etc have a few rivets. If you watch those disaster shows you will know that apart from close even spacing they use 2-5 lines of pops AND a big sheet overlap that is sometimes epoxy glued in high load areas. |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 19, 2016 17:51:02 GMT 10
Well I suppose it happens... this is the situation:
Bought 3mm ply from a well known hardware store with a good finish, so we got 6 sheets. I used the old ply I removed from the van as a template, and cut out 3 parts. Before fitting the ply it started to warp which to some degree its expected for the thickness. However, when we riveted these in place we could not remove the warped area and it looked shocking! The original ply is way better quality than the crap I bought, so the three pieces where again removed (drilling out all rivets and cleaning the area).
We went to various suppliers and settled on a 4mm marine grade ply. The difference is very noticeable, but so is the weight. I think this will be a good solution although I have to ensure that the 4mm ply would fit the areas (I have a sample) and also had to trim the floor to make sure the ply would slide into the floor channel to secure it.
So fingers crossed this will be the answer!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2016 21:08:01 GMT 10
The weight difference will be not more than 15 kg or so which it is nothing and the marine ply will be better regarding humidity.
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Post by atefooterz on Nov 20, 2016 9:05:23 GMT 10
Did you take any pics of the warped look? I agree with gitano about waterproof benifits and if not sealed behind the face side it would be possible for the swollen 3mm to weigh more than the 4mm ( if a problem arose).
I think Shelly uses the shiney faced 3mm so curious about spacing support or fixing from the top then allowing it to settle and pop in place as it lays to stop the buckle. A bit like wallpaper may have wrinkles/ bubbles at first.
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 20, 2016 12:53:55 GMT 10
I got some video that ill put up after the job is done. I dont think the ply would settle flat again once it has warped. It felt like tension when trying to flatten it again, so unlikely that will be the case.
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Post by Mark Rowlands on Nov 20, 2016 23:16:45 GMT 10
Just bought same model van interesting full strip down
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