Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2016 23:14:06 GMT 10
|
|
|
|
Post by Mustang on Mar 23, 2016 7:50:21 GMT 10
This tape is not designed for what you suggest, in my opinion. For seams & such that are exposed to the elements I believe you need a heavier tape, bitumen one side, silver foil on the exposed side. It was reported here that the green shed had the type? I,m sure there will be some comments here soon. |
|
|
|
Post by tim on Mar 23, 2016 8:28:43 GMT 10
The foam tape is not used on its own, its like a second line of defence with a bead of caulk on the outside. I used it recently when repairing the pop-top on the parent's van, I put it between the cladding and the frame. It originally had what looked like denso grease tape there. Being adhesive on both sides, it helps hold things together until you can get the proper fasteners in place and apply a layer of caulking to seal everything up.
Tim
|
|
|
|
Post by doublechevron on Mar 23, 2016 9:23:05 GMT 10
I have a new'ish caravan in my backyard that has that under the tru-mold seals. Gotta say it's the most stupid inferior way of sealing a caravan I could think of ............ It also seems to be working for now. Having said that, the factory has troweled a lot of silicon down the side of the tru-mold on the roof. I'd be expecting the walls to be well rotten from the stupid tape leaking by the time the caravan is 5-> 10years old though.
Think of how quick this makes a caravan to assemble. roll the tape around the caravan. Screw the tru-mold on ... done! about 20minutes for the entire caravan including bending up the tru-mold. versus a days work of taping up and squeezing out/troweling clean silicon sealer that would work for the life of the 'van.
seeya,
shane L.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2016 9:59:20 GMT 10
Yeah part of me knew it wouldnt be a long term soloution, thought i would see if i found an easy way to do it, sweat and blood it is then =). So you think that a Proper layer of Caulking is the way to go. This is my first reno of anykind so bare with me, Any tips?
|
|
|
|
Post by doublechevron on Mar 23, 2016 16:21:28 GMT 10
The foam tape is not used on its own, its like a second line of defence with a bead of caulk on the outside. I used it recently when repairing the pop-top on the parent's van, I put it between the cladding and the frame. It originally had what looked like denso grease tape there. Being adhesive on both sides, it helps hold things together until you can get the proper fasteners in place and apply a layer of caulking to seal everything up. Tim You never want to apply a bead of sealer. You need to fill any joints with sealer, then have the sealer squeeze out as it assembles. This guarantees a water proof join. A bead of sealer is just a band-aide that'll soon leak given what I've seen on caravans  seeya, Shane L. |
|
|
|
Post by captivenut on Mar 24, 2016 8:15:02 GMT 10
Shane, experience tells me you are on the money! I've learnt the hard way that laying a butt bead of sealant against a moulding or a join is a very short term solution and will not last. I have found that the only reliable method is to remove the moulding (or separate the join), clean out the old caulking, apply a generous bead of fresh caulking, lightly bring the surfaces together, wait for the caulking to go tacky or partially cure (5 - 10 minutes for silicon?) then fully screw/rivet/clamp the pieces together, and clean off excess.
I have a preference for polyurethane but I believe that if done properly it doesn't really matter which of the most common caulks are used (silicon, polyurethane, butyl mastic) as each has it's own pros & cons.
Note: Be aware that some classic and older vans may have asbestos powder in the original factory fitted caulking compound!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 19:22:42 GMT 10
|
|
|
|
Post by captivenut on Mar 25, 2016 9:50:29 GMT 10
The way I've been doing it is to first apply strips of masking tape either side of the join or moulding, then apply a generous bead of sealant, then lightly press the panels or moulding strip in place until the sealant just starts to ooze out from underneath, wait a little while for the sealant to go a bit tacky or partially cure, (about 5 -10 minutes for silicon) and then screw/rivot/clamp it down which will force more sealant out. Then trowel off the excess along the line of the masking tape (yeah, you can use your right index finger!). You may need to use a little turps or solvent on a rag to remove the excess. Then peel off the masking tape as soon as you've removed the excess sealant. You can control how far proud of the join the sealant will spread be by the position of the masking tape. If you positioned the masking tape just proud of the join (say 2mm) you will end up with a perfectly straight bead of sealant that extends about 2mm beyond the either side of the join or moulding.
This is my method. Not necessarily the best? Other people may have different ideas...to each his own?
Good Luck!
Cheers, Arthur
|
|
|
|
Post by boblor on Mar 25, 2016 11:03:22 GMT 10
I would use a Butyl mastic, its a non skinning product and will last for a long time. Silicon ends up lifting and gathering dust and fails.
Cheers boblor
|
|
|
|
Post by captivenut on Mar 25, 2016 13:33:28 GMT 10
I tend to agree that silicon (silly con?) is not the best sealant for external caravan cladding - particularly on painted aluminium or shiny surfaces. I like polyurethane sealant (Sikaflex) but that has the drawback of being extremely difficult to remove at a later stage.
|
|
|
|
Post by doublechevron on Mar 29, 2016 15:26:18 GMT 10
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 29, 2016 16:06:21 GMT 10
Well look what just got delivered. No more excuses now. I had a look at your link chevron. I like the idea about the foam tape for the door. Think I might do the same.  |
|
|
|
Post by doublechevron on Mar 30, 2016 9:49:41 GMT 10
Well look what just got delivered. No more excuses now. I had a look at your link chevron. I like the idea about the foam tape for the door. Think I might do the same. I thought the foam tape worked well with the mastic. I did the same for all of the windows. I just look up user "cabcar" over on the caravaners forum and follow his advice. That guy really knows which way the nuts flows With that ezycaulk, if it's cold outside, bring it inside and sit in near your heater for a few hours. I destroyed several cheap silicon guns trying to squeeze that stuff out of the tube. It softens a lot when warm though (using it in the freezing evening hours over winter wasn't easy work ). seeya, Shane L. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2016 9:56:22 GMT 10
SO i was looking for some adhesive tape and spotted this caravansplus.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=11938 Now i get we said no tape but wouldnt this Caulk tape work Similar to the Caulk sealant? I'll go over the cartridge on the low setting with a heat gun. Maybe turn the heater on in the garage as i primarily work at night. Do you think it would just be better to buy a decent caulking gun from bunnings? |
|
|
|
Post by doublechevron on Mar 31, 2016 15:39:44 GMT 10
You should be fine in summer I don't htink caulking tape would work. That is only my opinion though. You could never tighten it hard enough to get "squeeze out" so you know you have filled all the gaps. The idea of using the foam edging is to protect the mastic from the sun so it doesn't dry out, and it gives you a nice looking finish. I just got that cheap foam tape from ebay.uk (as I'm such a tight arse LOL ). www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36M-Foam-Window-Door-Draft-Draught-Excluder-Weather-Strip-Insulation-Roll-/351195413874?hash=item51c4e0bd72remember, it's not sealing the windows, it's just to protect the mastic and give you a nice finish seeya, Shane L. |
|
