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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2015 18:01:04 GMT 10
$25 for solagard ?? For real ?? I cant see it advertised. Cant seem to find it online.... May be it is only at the Clements Mitre 10 in Tasmania
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 13, 2015 18:09:55 GMT 10
Possibly... Will suss it out tomorrow
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 13, 2015 18:50:58 GMT 10
Hi Gitano.
I have an airless unit as well as an automotive spray gun. I painted my front fence with the airless (Solagard), and i did find it quite different to the spray gun. Felt I had less control using the airless, and had to be more precise with thinning the paint, or it just would not pick up the paint......I'll be using my Supercheap spray gun for the van ( for what it's worth)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2015 19:12:07 GMT 10
Hi Gitano. I have an airless unit as well as an automotive spray gun. I painted my front fence with the airless (Solagard), and i did find it quite different to the spray gun. Felt I had less control using the airless, and had to be more precise with thinning the paint, or it just would not pick up the paint......I'll be using my Supercheap spray gun for the van ( for what it's worth) Which flow has to have the compressor for painting solagard, more than 100 lpm? Is THIS the unit that you are referring or have to be a bigger investment ? Just reading THIS chart perhaps the 2.5 HP with a gravity feed spray will be option.
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 13, 2015 19:52:16 GMT 10
Hi Gitano. My compressor is a twin cylinder thing, so I have plenty of back up pressure for spraying. The cheapy single cylinder type usually won't keep up when spraying.....Maybe you could wind the reg pressure back abit while spraying with a smaller unit ? Might keep up then.....
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2015 20:03:40 GMT 10
Very hard for me to justifying in investing about $500 in gear that I will use only one time. Have to look for a retired painter that would like to earn few ollars on hand for a day work or just use a brush and roller if the Wagner spray unit it is not good enough.
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 13, 2015 20:35:38 GMT 10
I'd be giving your Wagner a try. As Sean mentioned, give it a go on a test piece and see how it looks. The paint shop reckons to water it down Up to 10% when spraying. Would have to look a heap better than a roller.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2015 5:48:48 GMT 10
We have a massive 3phase compressor running the workshop, keeps up with everything that's been thrown at it
Ask around, I'm sure you have friends and neighbours that have your typical noisy compressors. Just plumb 3 or 4 together and you'll have plenty of air
$30 worth of fittings and $40 for a spraygun
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2015 7:16:02 GMT 10
With the windows back in
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Post by snoops on Dec 14, 2015 7:20:45 GMT 10
Sean - looks great! Will you be spraying a stripe or two on it to break up the white, or you keeping it like this?
Gitano - A Spray gun is cheap, run down to your local hire shop and drop $40 for the hire of a 15CFM electric compressor for the weekend if you can't borrow one.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2015 7:24:32 GMT 10
I'll do a stripe of some sort but it will be a sticker probably, but it's not a priority for now
Was going to do the stripping and skylight this arvo but just found out I'll have to go to Mount Gambier for the night
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2015 23:06:53 GMT 10
As of this arvo she's finished (for now)
I started on the October long weekend and have:
-Repaired the rotten framing in the back, replaced the curved plywood -Reinforced the bed frame (braced to the chassis now) and made it fit a full size mattress -Cleaned the underside and coated with bitumen -Replaced the water tank, filler, hoses -Repaired rotten frame around door -Repaired the door -Replaced catch/lock on door -Removed all the trim and windows, cleaned up the dried out sealant -Fixed various holes and dents -Sanded the whole thing by hand -Sprayed it in primer and 3 coats of white -Sprayed the stabilisers, step, A frame in gloss black -Repaired the brakes, repacked the bearings -Got rid of the leaky 4 seasons hatch, replaced it with acrylic -Resealed everything -Lengthened the chains (dodgy but I have a ticket to say I'm qualified to judge their suitability) -Set up the adjustable hitch to get her towing level
Towed her home at 100kph, no issues. Tomorrow I need to clean the interior up it's full of tools and quite dusty.
At some point I will do the interior up and add batteries and solar power but for now she is usable and hopefully water proof
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2015 6:27:49 GMT 10
Excellent sean, have you put the van in the weight bridge?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2015 6:51:12 GMT 10
Nope. Didn't need to for rego and never gotten round to it since
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Post by awbeattie381 on Dec 22, 2015 12:33:56 GMT 10
Great job and good to see a finished van! You should keep the classic thing going and repaint the mission brown stripes lol
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2015 14:36:31 GMT 10
Don't tempt me, my '83 landcruiser has mission brown pin stripes! Might see if I can get a metal flake silver vinyl sticker to match the triton
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2015 15:43:27 GMT 10
The Triton vinyl sticker will be lost on the white paint.
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Post by tasmillard on Dec 23, 2015 17:59:48 GMT 10
sean - not meaning to be picky, but i think your tow hitch is too long. i recently drilled holes in mine to butt up against the receiver. I recently read an article about this, very informative stating that the longer the hitch is the more unstable the van is. Mine is this type and you can see how far the hole is meaning its too long.
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 23, 2015 18:16:27 GMT 10
Hey Sean. Will u need need torsion bars when towing with the Mits ? I've got the same vehicle, and was wondering how the Tritons go towing the Franklin......
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2015 18:19:07 GMT 10
The angle brace between the horizontal and vertical sections isn't far from the end of the receiver, too close to drill another hole without first filling in the existing hole with weld.
If it misbehaves I'll try something else
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2015 18:45:21 GMT 10
Hey Sean. Will u need need torsion bars when towing with the Mits ? I've got the same vehicle, and was wondering how the Tritons go towing the Franklin...... You mean weight distribution bars? The Triton have a ball weight capacity of 180 kg and it is not a front wheel drive so if your ute seat level and the ball weight it is well bellow the 180 kg I would not bother in fitting a weight distribution bars.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2015 23:15:41 GMT 10
Not going to bother with a WDH
I personally don't like the forces they impart on the vehicles. I'm not aware of a manufacturer that sells them as a genuine accessory and they must be one of the few things the car companies don't stick a logo on. Some brands of cars go so far as to specifically advise against using them.
My unpopular amongst most caravaners stance is that they are a bandaid fix.
I can lift the hitch with the van loaded. I'd say it's around 80-100kg. Well within my ball capacity on the triton.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2015 20:24:35 GMT 10
2 Things, I forgot today if they were holden or ford bearings when I regreased them (I have about 20 trailers to keep track of!) so I bought a spare of each for the boxing day roadtrip! Pretty sure they're holdens, the ford bearings wont go to waste if I'm right! If they're ford I'm still prepared... Don't think I've posted interior shots on here yet, she's a bit sad inside but here's a few:
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Post by tasmillard on Dec 24, 2015 21:54:29 GMT 10
Nicely kept inside. its amazing how dark they want with the walls, suppose that was the order of the day. Got any plans for interior? Any extra considerations with a little one?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2015 22:35:39 GMT 10
Something like snoops, lighter walls with darker doors.
The skylight certainly has brightened up the interior compared to the 4 seasons hatch
For now use the bunk space for the portacot, later reinforce the bunks and add safety rails once there are 2 little ones.
The interior isn't too bad, it doesn't need to be done just be nicer if it is.
I may end up turning the current fridge spot into a cupboard and fitting a 12/240v fridge freezer where the wardrobe is, straight above the axle.
Considering a domestic split system but that will require some structural reinforcements
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