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Post by myarrow1 on Aug 27, 2015 18:00:35 GMT 10
Ahhhh the joy. Out there with the hose trying to suss out the leaks. Have found a screw on the drain channel above the window (bottom window) which may be the culprit. Have sealed it and will try tomoz. Also found that the aluminum cladding has a join running along just under the window. It is coming in slightly from there too. Will run a fine bead along there on the weekend.
Just wanna fix these leaks before I finish the inside ply.....
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Post by myarrow1 on Aug 28, 2015 17:46:50 GMT 10
 Might be getting somewhere now ! Water seems to be coming in the seam (between the 2 arrows marked) and running down the back of the winder boxes. Will run a bead along it tomorrow and see how we go |
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Post by Mustang on Aug 28, 2015 18:16:43 GMT 10
Where would you be without this forum for all the experience aired here. I cant wait untill we get Vincent out into the real world to see if we have "done it right" but if we havn't its not the end of the world!!!  |
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Post by snoops on Aug 28, 2015 21:23:22 GMT 10
Good pickup - yes, this should be sealed to the jambs at each side.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 13:36:36 GMT 10
I am about! Just have not visited in a while. In regard to the ply I visited a wide range of suppliers to find something that would match, I even looked into laminate but there was nothing really close to the original wood paneling used in these vans. In the end I ordered a sheet of ply from a timber supplier in Melbourne with the aim of installing something for the time being so I could get the van back together and low and behold when it was delivered I was pleasantly suprised to see it almost matched the existing veneer perfectly. If you're interested I can chase up the details of exactly what I bought.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2015 10:26:03 GMT 10
Might be getting somewhere now ! Water seems to be coming in the seam (between the 2 arrows marked) and running down the back of the winder boxes. Will run a bead along it tomorrow and see how we go How did you go? Pretty sure mine is leaking from that same spot. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Aug 30, 2015 10:55:12 GMT 10
Hi. Ran a bead of sealant along the seams yeaterday morning and havent had a chance to do the 'hose down'after drying . Will give you an update hopefully later today
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Post by myarrow1 on Aug 30, 2015 16:34:05 GMT 10
 Success !!!! Hit the rear with the hose, and it looks like I've solved it ! No more water (from the window, anyway..) I reckon it was coming thought the triangle section at the bottom of the window, then running down the winder box. The 2 drilled holes have been sealed up too ( I knew it wasn't gonna be that simple to fix the window leak...) Still got water coming in the corners of the van, but that just needs a re seal along the roof, and the alum strip. (Did have quite abit of water flowing, though lol) Glad that one is solved (was abit concerned about the window leaks.) |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2015 18:01:45 GMT 10
Nice work! I've spent hours and hours on mine trying to seal it up, removed the rear window and both side rear ones, the hatch and both sides aluminium stripping on the roof and I still get the odd puddle in the rear. You guys I'm sure can appreciate the time and effort that has been required. Very frustrating. I'm pretty damn sure I have the same leaks as you so I'll give that a try.
Actually my four seasons hatch was fine when I bought it but a long journey along a dirt road loosened it up and it started leaking. These things have very little rigidity and movement opens up the old sealant.
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Post by myarrow1 on Aug 30, 2015 19:33:05 GMT 10
Hi Kyfarm. Out of curiosity, what sealant have you used ??
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2015 20:07:40 GMT 10
Hi Kyfarm. Out of curiosity, what sealant have you used ?? Sikaflex 291 Marine, It was recommended as it seals well but can be removed easily in the case of a window not sealing (unlike silicone), is highly flexible. I think it comes in various colours - I bought white. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Aug 30, 2015 20:26:54 GMT 10
I'm gonna use Fixtech 15 (white). Sell it though work. Good for marine applications and can be used on transport and RV/Caravan bodies too.
Was gonna attach the Fixtech website info, but not sure how to, lol
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Post by myarrow1 on Oct 11, 2015 20:27:32 GMT 10
Well, all J Moulds have been removed, the old concrete scraped off and resealed and refitted. My god, what a mongrel of a job !! Lol. Also have resealed the cross seams on the roof. Gonna have to do something about re sealing the roof hatch ( doesn't appear to be leaking) but the old concrete has been thickly applied and has started to lift on the edges. ( more fun times ahead it seems)
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Post by doublechevron on Oct 11, 2015 21:16:34 GMT 10
Hi Kyfarm. Out of curiosity, what sealant have you used ?? Sikaflex 291 Marine, It was recommended as it seals well but can be removed easily in the case of a window not sealing (unlike silicone), is highly flexible. I think it comes in various colours - I bought white. Have you tried to remove one of those windows. I'd strongly recommend against that ... aus.sika.com/dms/getredirect.get/au01.webdms.sika.com/115It sounds strongly adhesive to me :eek: Mastic!! that's the stuff. you might have to re-do it in 10years time. but the windows will fall out and it's only $5.00 a tube  |
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Post by doublechevron on Oct 11, 2015 21:24:52 GMT 10
Well, all J Moulds have been removed, the old concrete scraped off and resealed and refitted. My god, what a mongrel of a job !! Lol. Also have resealed the cross seams on the roof. Gonna have to do something about re sealing the roof hatch ( doesn't appear to be leaking) but the old concrete has been thickly applied and has started to lift on the edges. ( more fun times ahead it seems) It's way worse if someone has "resealed" it by pushing silicon under the edges. The hard old mastic is very easy to remove compared to the god awful silicon .... It takes forever to clean off the silicon from the visible areas it's been smeared all over  |
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Post by myarrow1 on Oct 12, 2015 17:51:02 GMT 10
Ha ha, the clear silicone was working soooo efficiently that it virtually came off in my hand !!! Any wonder I had leaks. The cross seams, I used my small right angle grinder with a nylon stripper disc. Got the old rock cement off beautifully and cos its nylon, doesn't heat up the panel. Gave the seams a wipe with metho on a rag, then sealer. I'll do the same with the hatch sealing
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Post by snoops on Oct 13, 2015 5:36:14 GMT 10
Sikaflex 291 Marine, It was recommended as it seals well but can be removed easily in the case of a window not sealing (unlike silicone), is highly flexible. I think it comes in various colours - I bought white. Have you tried to remove one of those windows. I'd strongly recommend against that ... aus.sika.com/dms/getredirect.get/au01.webdms.sika.com/115It sounds strongly adhesive to me :eek: Mastic!! that's the stuff. you might have to re-do it in 10years time. but the windows will fall out and it's only $5.00 a tube Yeah, agreed. Sikaflex is a Poluurathane (PU) product and while having extremely good flexibility and durability, it is pretty much impossible to remove anything that has been glued down with it. I've used it around the frame and cupboards to strengthen the structure, and on the J moulds, because if I even need to replace them again, wrecking the them isn't the end of the world, but I've yet to do my windows. Part of me says 'use the PU, you'll never need to pull the windows out again and this stuff will make sure they never leak while I still alive' but the other half says 'but what if you do...'  I can get PU for 'the right price' which is why I'm fairly liberal with it, so as yet I'm undecided. |
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Post by supreme78 on Oct 13, 2015 10:00:17 GMT 10
I resealed most of my windows with Sikaflex and i have since replaced all the seals around the outside of the wind out frames. you can remove just the wind out part if required easily so gluing in the whole window is not a real drama.
I have removed a window by cutting around it with a long stanley knife blade to get it out. Wasn't to hard.
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Post by myarrow1 on Oct 22, 2015 18:58:17 GMT 10
Well im confused !!! Spoke to a paint shop today about paint for my Arrow. I was all geared up to use Wattyl Solaguard. Paint shop is trying to steer me toward Etch then Enamel...Anyone have success or drama using Solaguard?  ? |
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Post by Mustang on Oct 22, 2015 19:42:07 GMT 10
A few members here have used Solarguard,its a house paint so how it lasts on aluminium is probably an unknow factor at this stage.
When you paint an aluminium caravan its for looks not waterproofing.
Preparation is the key, we have just used an automotive acrylic, hopefully it lasts.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2015 7:31:16 GMT 10
Killrust etch primer, then solaguard will work.
Enamel will be tougher when travelling, but may yellow slightly in the sun and/or go chalky
Solaguard wont go chalky but is quite a soft paint and will suffer damage easily.
I've been told to use Aquatrim as it has the same look as solaguard but is slightly harder wearing
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Post by myarrow1 on Oct 23, 2015 17:18:26 GMT 10
Hi guys thanks for your advice. Muchly apreciated. Would i need to etch over existing white, or just bare metal |
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Post by Mustang on Oct 23, 2015 17:42:37 GMT 10
Hi guys thanks for your advice. Muchly apreciated. Would i need to etch over existing white, or just bare metal Etch primer will take care of both surfaces. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Oct 24, 2015 15:12:19 GMT 10
 Well it's been a very busy day. Started with the sprinkler on the roof for about 15 minutes, ,,,,,,No leaks.....Now I can get stuck into the interior !!! I'm rapt with how the ply work turned out...Better than I expected. Still abit more to do tomorrow and then the rear section will be done. I reckon white melamine might be the go for the drawer top and the other bits in the van.... |
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Post by Mustang on Oct 24, 2015 18:34:41 GMT 10
Our bedroom is similar style to yours. We replaced the tops of our cupboards with marine ply then topped off with the wall ply & used pinrail to finish off.   |
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