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Post by peter92 on Sept 16, 2014 19:32:33 GMT 10
Thanks Ted,
ll try that and see what happens
Regards Peter
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2014 20:43:37 GMT 10
Peter,
Looks like a distinct lack of sealant on those corners. That's what leaked on mine. You need to be much more generous when you apply it. That's all I can suggest. It needs to be a bead on both sides of the window. I used 1.5 tubes of 291.
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Post by peter92 on Sept 17, 2014 21:13:43 GMT 10
Thanks Kayfam, will try that and see how i go, fingers crossed
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Sept 30, 2014 22:16:19 GMT 10
Hi All,well ive found out that having my 2 yrs old grand daughter living with us and she is my shadow and only wants me, doesnt give me any time to work on the van so havent been able to do the rear window but as soon as i can i will let you all know how it goes, i app all the help you all are giving me and will still be here, hopefully i would have done something, she is only here for about 3 months, on the other hand, i dont mind really
The van will still be here after she leaves
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 1, 2014 8:08:45 GMT 10
Hi Ted, thanks mate, will try that
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 11, 2014 17:57:03 GMT 10
Hi Guys got a chance today to take the rear window frame back off and these pics is what i found, how could i fix it to stop the water coming in.   |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 11, 2014 17:59:13 GMT 10
I left the Sika Flex on to show where the frame was sitting, this would explain why the window is leaking at the corners i would hope, any help on this would be great please
Regards Peter
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Post by tedalley on Oct 12, 2014 9:14:42 GMT 10
I left the Sika Flex on to show where the frame was sitting, this would explain why the window is leaking at the corners i would hope, any help on this would be great please Regards Peter
Peter Hi.
It looks to me that some of the cracks go past the window frames - is this so?
I can think of two ways to fix the water leaks.......
Option 1) Using a hammer & screwdriver make the holes slightly bigger ( ie. make a small inwards well) then use car bog to fill in the holes.
The well gives the bog something to grip on to.
Then sand smooth. When you are happy with the results, paint the alloy & bog.
At this stage go to option 2)
Option 2) Lightly screw window onto wall.
Place masking tape on wall all way around the window.
Take window out - leaving masking tape on wall.
Squeeze heaps of sikaflex onto window opening up to the masking tape.
If you have 3mm ply - cut into 10mm x 20mm pieces.
Place these pieces about 30mm away from screw holes, so that 10mm of the 20mm is over the tape, every 500mm so that the window sits over 10mm x 10mm of the ply.
When all the screws are in and the whole window is 3mm from the wall, using a finger or small scraper, smooth out sikaflex around window.
Pull out 3mm ply as you get to them and fill hole with surplus sikaflex.
Then peel off masking tape giving the edge another wipe with finger.
Using a Turps soaked rag, gently wipe any sikaflex of surfaces
Give it a few days for the sikaflex to set.
Have fun
Ted
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Post by peter92 on Oct 12, 2014 15:40:09 GMT 10
Hi Ted
Thanks for the info, iwill do that, another thing, ive taken the windows out of the frame now and using just the frame, sitting it back in posision on the van, the frame doesnt sit flat and theres a gap of about 8mm from the frame to the panel, is this normal
On the bog issue, what bog should i use also up the top where the holes are should i put bog all the way along there as its all in and out and looks like crap, also on the left hand side up by the top corner some one has moved the up right piece of wood and in doing so has tapped the cladding inwoulds around the upright, should i cut that ali off level to the up right
if you want to send me your no i could ring you about it all
mine is 0407745591 and ill ring you back
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 12, 2014 15:42:34 GMT 10
Hi Guys got a chance today to take the rear window frame back off and these pics is what i found, how could i fix it to stop the water coming in. Hi Ted, on the left hand side pic you can see where the ali is tapped around the up right, thats the piece i was asking should be cut off Regards Peter |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 12, 2014 21:57:49 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2014 9:44:03 GMT 10
Hi Peter, I think Ted had some good advice there, smoothing out the corners with some bog will work well in providing a flatter surface for the sealant to adhere. Good luck with it!
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Post by peter92 on Oct 13, 2014 11:15:56 GMT 10
Hi every one,
after looking more closely at where the window goes in, i noticed the bloke that had it before me did a real botch job on it all, left rot in there and the frame moves if i pull on it
Now ive bit thebullet and pulled the lot out and now have to rebuild the frame work right across the rear for the window from under the top cupboard to the piece of ply just under the window
If any one has pics or messure ments of how it should look i would app it very much
Im thinking of messuring how wide the van is and building the frame around the windw to make sure it square
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Post by peter92 on Oct 13, 2014 11:21:02 GMT 10
Sorry about that, had my grand daughter trying to push button on the computer
Now to get back to what i was saying
and then screw the frame into the side of the van like it was when i pulled it apart
so hows my plan sound, ive put pics of the old frame i took out and inside the van for people to look at s1177.photobucket.com/user/peterfol/library/?sort=3&page=1,
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 13, 2014 20:35:27 GMT 10
Went a got enough timber for the new window frame today , decided to use Victorian Ash @$60 was told its good wood if it gets wet
Will take pics of finished frame tomoro
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 15, 2014 20:34:02 GMT 10
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Post by tedalley on Oct 15, 2014 20:43:42 GMT 10
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Post by peter92 on Oct 15, 2014 21:05:32 GMT 10
Hi Ted
I think i know what you mean, the frame hasnt been fitted yet and do you mean the timber frame has to sit even and level to the cladding
Ive also got to plane and sand the frame to make it all even and level
Ted, how did you get the top lip of the cladding nice and strait before you put filler on it
Regards Peter
PS ive also made the frame a bit smaller so the window frame is nice and snug but the same size as the cut out in the cladding, this is to make the window sit properly on the van when screwed in
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Post by atefooterz on Oct 15, 2014 23:29:07 GMT 10
Boy Peter you cetainly are going through the wringer but it looks like you will end up snug & dry and 100% better than before. During our massive rain yesterday my rear window started leaking top right (looking inside out) with many drips = grr at least i know what is behind there now  Hoping that the heavy rains were an exception rather than the norm with water ingress on my old beastie. |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 16, 2014 14:11:48 GMT 10
hi t ted, ive got the frame sitting in thee now and its a snug fit with the window, i noticed the bottom doesnt sit flush with the ali, on the frame, should i plane that down , if i do, the window frame will be a bit loose top to bottom, wont do any thing until i here from you as i dont want to stuff it up Regards Peter s1177.photobucket.com/user/peterfol/library/?sort=3&page=1New pics taken today |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 16, 2014 16:47:45 GMT 10
Boy Peter you cetainly are going through the wringer but it looks like you will end up snug & dry and 100% better than before. During our massive rain yesterday my rear window started leaking top right (looking inside out) with many drips = grr at least i know what is behind there now Hoping that the heavy rains were an exception rather than the norm with water ingress on my old beastie. Hi AteFooter yeah im having a ball with really, not, i think it will be ok ,theres only a 5mm differance between the cladding and timber frame on the bottom, sides are good and so is the top if i try and pull the top down a bit the sides bow so cant do any thing there In the End as long as it stops the leak and done properly its worth it how are you going with yours now Regards Peter |
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Post by atefooterz on Oct 16, 2014 17:26:38 GMT 10
As i live in mine no progress haha!I did have a spare cheap tarp lying around so just gaffa taped it to the curtains so the drips fell between the tarp & previous owner installed laminex panel under the window, the wet has access to a few old holes in that area between the big rear timber at floors end to the curvey alloy rise up the back so lucky i did not fill those holes when the new electrics were installed for tail / running lights. TBA as the wet season continues.
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Post by tedalley on Oct 16, 2014 23:13:43 GMT 10
hi t ted, ive got the frame sitting in thee now and its a snug fit with the window, i noticed the bottom doesnt sit flush with the ali, on the frame, should i plane that down , if i do, the window frame will be a bit loose top to bottom, wont do any thing until i here from you as i dont want to stuff it up Regards Peter s1177.photobucket.com/user/peterfol/library/?sort=3&page=1New pics taken today
Peter Hi.
I had a look at the photos - looks ok.
Once the timber is fixed in place I used "blue tacks" to get the alloy as flat as possible with the timber. I'm not sure what you mean by "sit flush with ali, on the frame". The window lip should be about 20mm so if the timber sticks out 5 - 8mm should be ok. Make sure that the top edge of window is parallel with the lines on the alloy cladding - that will make it look right.
When you are ok with the look then follow option 2
Ted
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Post by peter92 on Oct 17, 2014 8:01:52 GMT 10
Hi Ted
Thanks for the advise and help, hope you dont mind me asking so many questions, "sit flush with ali, on the frame". with this i meant that the bottom piece of wood is 5mm higher than the cladding on the bottom
In saying "blue tacks" do you mean tacks as in tiny nails" its about the only tacks i know
I will make sure that the top edge is right, dont want to do this again in a hurry
should i also use the "dam" job when putting the sika on, using the foaming on the edge and then filling in with the sika
Hopefully ill be able to get it done today but when ive got it right ,i will put some pics up, and i will put bog up the top edge to make it all level so the top window frame sits good and even
Again i app all your help
Regards Peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 17, 2014 8:10:17 GMT 10
I left the Sika Flex on to show where the frame was sitting, this would explain why the window is leaking at the corners i would hope, any help on this would be great please Regards Peter
Peter Hi.
It looks to me that some of the cracks go past the window frames - is this so?
I can think of two ways to fix the water leaks.......
Option 1) Using a hammer & screwdriver make the holes slightly bigger ( ie. make a small inwards well) then use car bog to fill in the holes.
The well gives the bog something to grip on to.
Then sand smooth. When you are happy with the results, paint the alloy & bog.
At this stage go to option 2)
Option 2) Lightly screw window onto wall.
Place masking tape on wall all way around the window.
Take window out - leaving masking tape on wall.
Squeeze heaps of sikaflex onto window opening up to the masking tape.
If you have 3mm ply - cut into 10mm x 20mm pieces.
Place these pieces about 30mm away from screw holes, so that 10mm of the 20mm is over the tape, every 500mm so that the window sits over 10mm x 10mm of the ply.
When all the screws are in and the whole window is 3mm from the wall, using a finger or small scraper, smooth out sikaflex around window.
Pull out 3mm ply as you get to them and fill hole with surplus sikaflex.
Then peel off masking tape giving the edge another wipe with finger.
Using a Turps soaked rag, gently wipe any sikaflex of surfaces
Give it a few days for the sikaflex to set.
Have fun
Ted
Hi Ted One ive got to the end of what you said, do i leave the window out 3mm or after a few days nip up the screws Regards Peter |
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Hoping that the heavy rains were an exception rather than the norm with water ingress on my old beastie.