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Post by philouise on Mar 18, 2010 12:06:39 GMT 10
I have a little more "advice" on Silicone Sealants.
(in my opinion) Dont use the paintable silicone because it is always sticky and it appears to shrink just after application and creates small holes or gaps in the run of seal that allows water through.
Maybe some paint will help - i will try that one day.
Cheers from a slightly leaky franklin.
Phil.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2012 19:50:16 GMT 10
Folks I have been using sikaflex 11FC on the exterior aspects of the van (around trims,window sills ect. I know it sticks this with no trouble but I'm not totally sold on its sealing ability for external applications.
I'm moving on to the roof soon and really want to use the right product up there, as it seems that where the leaks really come from.
I know the are a few threads about this but can anyone give some experienced advice on good external sealing?
-Ben
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Post by millard1399 on Aug 8, 2012 21:00:26 GMT 10
G'day Ben, As you say, it's a subject that's been discussed on a number of occasions on the forum. Other threads are: Test report - Sikaflex 11FC sealantI'm currently using Selleys Butyl Mastic on my van to seal up all screw holes and other bits and pieces around the outside. It's the first time I've tried this stuff, so I'll let you know in another couple of years' time whether I would recommend it or not.  cheers, Al. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2012 21:27:38 GMT 10
Hi Ben You can buy Ezycaulk Butyl Rubber Sealant from Camec for only $6-7 per tube. Easy to get apart if the van leaks again & cheaper than Selleys. After reading this thread on a different caravan forum caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=237&p=1375&hilit=leaking+hatch#p1375I decided to use Butyl Sealant on the repair of my 4 seasons hatch. These hatches do leak and I didn't want to destroy the van getting it out if it started to leak again. Scotty |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2012 23:10:19 GMT 10
Just to drop another suggestion into the mix, I resealed my Franklin using Plumbworks silicon sealant for gutters. It has been done for about 3 years now and is holding quite well. The trick is to use plenty when installing the "J" moulds between roof and walls. I masked up the area with the "J" moulds off then applied thick runs of sealant to the roof and wall before fitting the "J" mould and squeezing out the excess sealant. Cleaned up using turps and rags. Whatever sealant you choose to use be prepared to use plenty and waste around a third of it in cleanup, this way you should achieve a good water proof join.
Denis.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2012 20:40:47 GMT 10
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm continuing with the Sikaflex as it just sticks so good.
I'm onto the roof now and am interested in what others have done with their roof sealing technique.
I'm especially interested in what you did along the joints. Has anyone used the water proof tape along the joins? The original method seems to rely on a load of smeared sealant and some black bituminous stuff.
-ben
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2012 7:03:45 GMT 10
Hi to All - I have had some dealings with the problem of sealing/sealants in the past. The main problem seems to be... how to part the component and remove/clean off the sealant if you need to - as in the case of having to remove and replace a complete window frame, etc.
There is apparently a product sold by Camec that looks like mastic, smells a bit like LInseed Oil Putty, and has a tape surface on each side. It comes in a roll, and is about 15mm - 20mm wide and 3mm thick. It is black in colour - at least the product I saw was. It seems to be easy to remove, but also seems to fill gaps very well. It also seems to last well, as was portrayed to me by a caravan repair person on the Sunshine Coast.
Any views on the use of this product - instead of the dreaded silicon sealer?? I have not used it personally.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2012 7:12:41 GMT 10
Hi, have just checked the catalogue and it is listed with Camec under Building Materials. This is the link to Camec... www.camec.com.au/Just select New Products and scroll down. Cheers.... ZimZam |
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Post by TEC7 on Oct 12, 2012 7:21:33 GMT 10
Hi Guys, All these Silicones and Polyuethanes are really old technology. most of the topend (quality manufacturers) use MS polymer sealants now, they have all the advantages of both silicone and polyurethanes but without the downsides. Purchasing Sealtants and adhesives is very much like buying tyres for your car, all tyres are black and round however some are only $30.00 each and others are anything up to $500 > $600.00 each it does not take a genius to work out which ones are most likely to last longer and perform better. Sealants are the same they are all sold in the same shape tube and look the same, but they do not all do what they claim to, basically what you pay for is what you get. If you want a top quality European MS Polymer sealant that will perform in all Australian conditions the the TEC7 product FLEX7 is amongst the best available. www.tec7.com/Default.aspx?WPID=328&L=E&PID=111TEC7 Quality makes the Pro. |
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Post by kiwijim on Oct 12, 2012 10:11:39 GMT 10
It would want to be...... " PURE MAGIC "
@ $ 25.95 per Tube
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 12, 2012 10:58:29 GMT 10
G'day All, I realise whoever TEC7 (Guest) is, that they are really just getting a "free plug" in for their products. However, in the interests of knowing about different types/brands of products that might be useful for caravans, I'm prepared to allow the post to stay. The TEC7 brand is primarily sold in the European market, however there is a distributor here in Melbourne: Novatio Australia Pty Ltd 7 Dilop Drive, Epping Victoria 3076 03 9408 0731 03 9408 0555 www.novatio.com.au (although this link actually defaults to the European website) When I search the internet, I can't find very much information at all about the FLEX7 sealant in relation to caravans, so it doesn't seem to be a popular product used around the traps. One website forum thread I did happen to come across in my search, was this one in the UK, where you'll be "pleased" to know they struggle with the dreaded silicone sealant just as much as we do here... www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/4717-sealing-of-caravan-seams/cheers, Al. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2012 18:18:00 GMT 10
I'm with Jim it would need to have a longer shelf life @ 25 plus a tube that's where it will stay cheers Gav
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2012 20:44:52 GMT 10
Hi all just to add my bit, at the moment i am gluing? some velcro on to the window frames i repainted so i have somewhere to fit the flyscreens onto. About 6 weeks ago i put a half used tube of sika 11fc in the bar fridge and guess what?...........it had dried out about half way down the nozzle, put a spare one on and it was fine... perhaps a way to extend the life of a open tube...cheers oggyfj
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Post by ForumMod on Nov 11, 2013 23:17:05 GMT 10
I've pinched a bit of information off the Vintage Caravans forum that a member posted yesterday: "You asked a question earlier re. removing silicon. I have found a good product, available off the shelf in supermarkets in the laundry section, it is a citrus concentrate, around $5.50 for a small container. It turns silicon into a soft jelly like texture and then easily removed." (Dec 2013) Updating this post: The product is known as "Orange Power sticky spot & goo dissolver" and costs approximately $6.00 for a bottle containing 110ml. It is currently available in the laundry section of Coles; IGA; or from on-line suppliers. Note that at the time of writing, Coles list it on their website as " Cleaner Spot & Goo Dissolver", and I've sent them an email pointing out the error.  The manufacturer's website is here: www.orangepower.com.au/sticky-spot-goo-dissolver/ |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2014 21:49:09 GMT 10
I was at a reputable caravan repairers today ( Caboolture Caravan Repairs ) and asked them what is the best sealant for windows. They claim general purpose silicon is the best. They reckon from their own experience in repairing and building new caravans, polyurethene sealants such as Sika age quickly and break down in the sun & rain. This is the one they use, Bostik brand.  |
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Post by tedalley on Feb 4, 2014 19:24:06 GMT 10
I've pinched a bit of information off the Vintage Caravans forum that a member posted yesterday: "You asked a question earlier re. removing silicon. I have found a good product, available off the shelf in supermarkets in the laundry section, it is a citrus concentrate, around $5.50 for a small container. It turns silicon into a soft jelly like texture and then easily removed." I found this a few years ago  |
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Post by ForumMod on Feb 4, 2014 19:55:02 GMT 10
Yeah, that product is still available, Ted. Currently $19.47 at Bunnings. Takes 2-4 hours to work, or longer for thicker silicone, according to the Selleys website. cheers, Al. |
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Post by tedalley on Feb 4, 2014 19:58:50 GMT 10
Al hi,
Orange Power seems to be the best price
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Post by peter92 on May 31, 2014 19:50:29 GMT 10
Thought i would add to all this
The Franklin is our 3rd van and ive been using sika 291 marine, I fine it seals very well and yes its hard to clean up but i only want to reseal the van once and i hope it lasts a long time
Im up to taking out the windows now and i did go to a repairer and he sold me some white tape and a tube of silican to do the job
My question is
Do i need to put this foam tape on the window frame and then use a sealant as well or can i just use the sika 291
Your thoughts on this would be very app
Regards Peter
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Post by supreme78 on Aug 14, 2014 21:22:13 GMT 10
Hi Peter.
I dismantled a Franklin caravan and the windows were sealed with closed cell foam tape and nothing else. There was no evidence of water leaking through the seal. I was going to try this on the side windows of my viscount to see how it lasts. The franklin was an early 1970's model so I believe the tape must work ok.
There are a lot of good seal foams in the hardware store with tape on one side to assist installation.
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Post by Mustang on Feb 9, 2015 20:32:59 GMT 10
Hi Peter. I dismantled a Franklin caravan and the windows were sealed with closed cell foam tape and nothing else. There was no evidence of water leaking through the seal. I was going to try this on the side windows of my viscount to see how it lasts. The franklin was an early 1970's model so I believe the tape must work ok. There are a lot of good seal foams in the hardware store with tape on one side to assist installation. I also have just restored some windows & sealed them back in with caulking tape from Caravans Plus. Mike sent me an email with suggestions of caulking vs silicone. im very happy with the result & incase of a breakage etc I know the frames will come out next time as easy as they did with the original caulking. |
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Post by atefooterz on Feb 10, 2015 9:45:53 GMT 10
Tasmillards vid shows why too much sillicone/polyurethane can be an issue. I do love the quote above about sika outdoors, go to any yacht club and see teak decks with black sika exposed to sun for 20-30 years then make up your own mind. Note shipwrights/ owner builders do stuff on yachts that if wrong affects lives (sinking is a good example), unlike a weekend away in a caravan, where some leakage may be a pain in the bum haha! www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9Jxx2SNwwk&list=UUu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w |
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Post by Mustang on Apr 13, 2015 17:30:48 GMT 10
Hi Peter. I dismantled a Franklin caravan and the windows were sealed with closed cell foam tape and nothing else. There was no evidence of water leaking through the seal. I was going to try this on the side windows of my viscount to see how it lasts. The franklin was an early 1970's model so I believe the tape must work ok. There are a lot of good seal foams in the hardware store with tape on one side to assist installation. I also have just restored some windows & sealed them back in with caulking tape from Caravans Plus. Mike sent me an email with suggestions of caulking vs silicone. im very happy with the result & incase of a breakage etc I know the frames will come out next time as easy as they did with the original caulking. My bays now re-fitted to the front: Sealed with Caulking Tape. 
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Post by tasmillard on Apr 13, 2015 21:49:44 GMT 10
yes i know that the thought of taking out the window frames on mine is not even worth contemplating as it would be extremely difficult to remove. But my thinking was that if the frame is good, then why would one replace that. Window frames are different because they are a moving part. Conversely, tape also has lated 40+ years so why not 'stick' (bad pun) with original. The only concern for me with tape was the cladding shape, lots of undulations and i am sure the tape would not reach and fully seal, hence the leaks to start with.
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Post by Mustang on Apr 14, 2015 19:06:59 GMT 10
Hi tas millard,
With the caulking tape (mastic) I think the reverse, as you lay the tape to the edge of the frame, the screw's ooze the mastic to the edge, then its a matter of filling the hollows with the offcuts, using a soapy water spray to help. See Image:
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