|
|
Post by millard1399 on May 26, 2012 16:51:23 GMT 10
G'day All, Here's some "useful" information about Sikaflex 11FC sealant... In September last year (2011), I bought a cartridge of said sealant...  ...and used it to glue and seal the mudguards to the chassis on a vintage caravan project I'm (slowly) making progress on...  I only used about half the cartridge, so I taped up the nozzle opening and stored it away in the shed for future use. Now, eight months later, I wanted to use it again on the Windsor van, and got it off the shelf in the shed. Guess what?! Solid as...!!  This stuff sticks like, ummm, "you know what". I couldn't even break the cured plug of sealant away from the threaded end of the cartridge!...  If you ever use this stuff, be prepared for two things: (1) use it fairly quickly, or lose any leftover stuff in the cartridge. (2) whatever you stick with it, it ain't ever gonna come off again!  cheers, Al. |
|
|
|
Post by gavo on May 28, 2012 20:32:34 GMT 10
You're right about it never coming off Al. When I was coach/Bus-building we used to glue in the windows, glue on the side panels, glue on just about anything with Sikaflex. There are different grades of course but they all seal very well and provided the surfaces are prepared correctly it will not let go. I was talking to a caravan repairer a while ago and they said they don't use Sikaflex for the reason that it won't let go. The only way to get parts apart are to cut them apart, although using a heat gun will help. Oh and the caravan repairer recommended using silicone  . Cheers Gav. |
|
|
|
Post by atouchofglass on May 29, 2012 16:05:45 GMT 10
Oh and the caravan repairer recommended using silicone . Cheers Gav. Sounds like he is looking for repeat business.  Atog |
|
|
|
Post by bambang on May 29, 2012 18:39:29 GMT 10
I don't trust the air-tightness of the coarse thread on Sikaflex ( and other adhesives & silicones )....so I've always used some plastic-wrap over the thread before recapping. Sort of like using thread-tape on tap threads - makes the seal a lot better ....seems to make the storage life a bit longer. I clean out the conical nozzle (or use a spare) rather than leaving glue in the nozzle. Still get a little plug in the end of the tube next time(after removing the plastic) but normally just pierce it with a nail, refit the nozzle and go again. Worth a try rather than chucking the remainder out later.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 30, 2012 23:01:19 GMT 10
Someone told us that caravan builders don't use Sikaflex because it's too expensive and considering the amount they would use on one van, it increases the costs too much.
Subbie
|
|
|
|
Post by kiwijim on May 31, 2012 13:03:48 GMT 10
Howdy All,
Here's my two Bob's worth on the subject,
As a retired Caravan Repairer and Manufacturer with something like 35 years experience,
I can say that any repairer who uses Silicone in building or repair work obviously doesn't want the same van back in the future,
As many of you know Silicone is just lovely to try and remove after a couple of years airing, it takes many hours to clean the old stuff off especially around window frames and is a real pain when contacted to ply lining.
The one product we used in just about all applications was called Secomastic, it comes in a tube ind is either in white or clear, it has a long shelf life, stays pliable for years and makes a very good sealer against water,
This product can also be very easily cleaned up with Turps, using a brush to make a smooth surface.
kiwijim ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2012 21:12:55 GMT 10
ok while following this i thought i may be able to add my two bobs worth. Working in the auto industry for 30 odd and sometimes not so odd years i have seen a lot of different sealers from the old butyl mastic to the current adhesives that literally hold your late models vehicles together.Some recommended repair procedures for current vehicles call for panel bonding techniques to used including structural areas due to the use of high strength steels. aluminium ect. My humble opinion is that if the area you are working on requires maintenance for example frig vents. I would not use silicon as once its stuck it is a pig to remove . If its a area that does not need to be.or cant be accessed and needs to have a permanent seal silicon would my choice with sikiflex being the best one that i have used.As for seams that have to be painted there is a brush on seam sealer that is often used in body repair industry which also work well. I read somewhere the vans should be checked and resealed regularly if required then perhaps a mastic is a better choice. When using either of these products a good way of cleaning up or dressing the sealers is once applied spray a light coat of spray and wipe over the sealer or silicon and then smooth off and remove the excess using you finger wet with spray and wipe or a silicon tool wet with spray and wipe. Silicon tools are available from your hardware shop often a plastic handle with a rubber diamond shaped end used to remove excess silicon or you can make a tool for your self using a hard bit of plastic ie: lid off a ice cream container cut to the profile you require food for thought cheers oggy  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2012 22:32:58 GMT 10
G'day Kj,
My theory is that everything has to be flexible due to the stresses involved in the movement of a van, albeit expansion/contraction due to the seasons or stress of travelling - also, all sealant will deteriorate so a rubber/butyl sealant such as Blockade is preferable as it flexes and will be easier to remove when a problem is discovered which with vans seems to be common.
regards
Bobbie
|
|
|
|
Post by Chris on Nov 15, 2016 15:57:47 GMT 10
We used Sikaflex on Army trucks (Unimogs) at Bulimba, It was a standing joke that when the time came to dismantle one down the track that explosives would be needed!
|
|
|
|
Post by snoops on Dec 1, 2016 9:08:36 GMT 10
Holy thread resurrection Batman!  I've used polyurethane (sikaflex) extensively in my van for both glueing stuff together and sealing windows and trims, etc. while I know some frown on this, and I completely get that mastic or other products work well and will last for years and be replaceable, I've used what I have for several reasons - following is in order of importance for me. 1 - As the van is so old, by the time this resto needs redoing, I won't be around to worry about it. 2 - As the van is so old, a lot of nails and screws, etc have worked loose in the last 40 years - the beads of PU I've used in the cupboard, when building new stuff, etc has really made the van more solid while still maintaining enough flex not to crack anything. 3 - I get if for the right price and use a sausage gun - anything that's left in the tube at the end of the day is thrown out as it doesn't keep long once opened. While I understand it's not for everyone due to both cost and if you ever want to pull something apart, it really does a bloody brilliant job. |
|
|
|
Post by atefooterz on Dec 11, 2016 17:39:48 GMT 10
The application irony is that a substance that uses air to cross polymerise, that the diy type will caulk in huge thicknesses of product,expecting the middle of that bulge to set, then bemoan a good one that exposure to air at the tip allows proper cure to the very end of the cartridge, in a relativly short time span. |
|
|
|
Post by snoops on Dec 11, 2016 19:07:36 GMT 10
PU uses the moisture in the air to cure, and this will penetrate up to 30mm over the course of 2 weeks, so you can cake it on thick and it will still fully cure. This his is also the reason an opened tube needs to be used or thrown out, no matter how much or how little you use in the 48 hours after opening it. It can add up to an expensive excersize if you don't have enough of a job to use a whole tube at a time. |
|
|
|
Post by atefooterz on Dec 11, 2016 19:25:26 GMT 10
PU uses the moisture in the air to cure, and this will penetrate up to 30mm over the course of 2 weeks, so you can cake it on thick and it will still fully cure. This his is also the reason an opened tube needs to be used or thrown out, no matter how much or how little you use in the 48 hours after opening it. It can add up to an expensive excersize if you don't have enough of a job to use a whole tube at a time. Cheers snoops, having only used it in humid Sydney, i just tracked down the faq and give a heads up to anyone using it in a dry enviroment to ensure proper moisture cure. |
|
.
