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Post by Warrenk on Oct 4, 2017 10:47:49 GMT 10
In the caravan repair industry and new caravan manufacturing they are now using closed cell foam as a seal for windows instead of using sealants like butyl mastic. If you take your caravan to a repairer to have a window resealed more than likely they will use foam. This foam only needs a 20% compression to seal against water, not messy and if the windows needs to be removed for any reason it will come out easily. I have read butyl mastic has an effective life for good seal of about 10 years. With all the issues you read about new caravans I haven't read of any complaints with window sealing issues. I am seriously considering us foam when I reseal the windows on our Olympic.
What are your thoughts?
Warren
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Post by pisces51 on Oct 4, 2017 21:16:14 GMT 10
G'day Warren,
Closed-cell foam works with the modern vans because the sides are fairly flat. However, our Classic vans have cladding that creates highs and lows in the profile. If you put a straght-edge on the side of our vans, the gap will vary from nothing to about 10mm depth. Using foam means you have to choose one that will fill that gap properly, varying from the 10mm depth to zero. If the foam doesn't get compressed right down into the deepest valley, then you have a small gap that water can find its way into. I think that's why sealants are the preferred method for the old vans...the sealant can be moulded into the same shape as the gap.
cheers,
Al.
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Post by planner on Oct 5, 2017 13:46:21 GMT 10
Warren I had the need to replace a window in Dad's modern (10yr old) Crusader recently (someone decided that they need to be inside, rather than outside  ). It was sealed with foam, and the aluminium profile was not flat. There was no evidence of any water entering the wall where we worked, I would consider it if resealing windows again. I can send through a pic of the cladding profile, it it will help. Planner |
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Post by snoops on Oct 6, 2017 4:20:22 GMT 10
Technology has come a long way - if the foam is thick enough to allow the required compression in the low spots then I can't see it not working to be honest. The only things I can think of to watch out for is where the joins are - I doubt the foam would be able to turn a 90 degree corner so the join at each top corner would need to be spot on or have some sealant applied. Not sure if cost comes into it either as no idea how much it is.
I may look into this myself for my new project, it would be heaps cleaner than using mastic or PU.
I used to glaze windows so I'm up for trying new products - wouldn't be hard to do one window and conduct some leak tests on it.
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Post by twocutekelpies on Oct 7, 2017 5:30:35 GMT 10
I used the closed cell foam tape from camec when I put my '87 Viscount windows back in, I also used roof and gutter around the exterior to protect the foam from the elements. I added the roof and gutter before fastening the windows in so I still had the ooze and a good seal. When removing the windows in the future for resealing (way down the track) they won't be as hard to remove as a window sealed in with sikaflex. The windows had to be riveted in, not screwed so I felt the foam was a far less messy way of putting them in, I had heaps of time to maneuver them into place before adding the sealant. Admittedly the profile on an '87 Viscount is pretty flat.
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Post by Mustang on Oct 7, 2017 9:29:28 GMT 10
I used the closed cell foam tape from camec when I put my '87 Viscount windows back in, I also used roof and gutter around the exterior to protect the foam from the elements. I added the roof and gutter before fastening the windows in so I still had the ooze and a good seal. When removing the windows in the future for resealing (way down the track) they won't be as hard to remove as a window sealed in with sikaflex. The windows had to be riveted in, not screwed so I felt the foam was a far less messy way of putting them in, I had heaps of time to maneuver them into place before adding the sealant. Admittedly the profile on an '87 Viscount is pretty flat. I think you are on a winner here. I used ribbon mastic right to the edge of our Viscount windows (no problems) but next time I would leave a void at the edge and apply a sealer as you have done. Your method would also seal any small gaps left from the mastic. Some of the new sealants are not as prone to gathering dirt as the mastic does. That said any time I need to remove a window it will take minutes not hours. |
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