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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 29, 2015 16:58:00 GMT 10
Got the fridge back in today. Was wondering why the 'clicker' wasn't sparking when trying to light on gas. The terminal was touching the gas pilot body (no air gap) ! Bent it back with a screwdriver and bingo, of it went. Working beautifully ! The previous owner assured me that it worked on gas... But much happier that I know it works .....
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Post by planner on Nov 30, 2015 8:40:15 GMT 10
Hi all. Gotta hook up my 12v system to run USB and cig lighter plugs. Will be to charge phones, maybe run a fan etc. What size twin core wiring do I need to use  ??! MyArrow I ran 6B&S (not 6mm) from the battery to a fuse box near the fridge, then 6mm twin core to the USB, radio, cig lighters. I don't run anything with a serious current draw off the cig lighters though. If I was running an additional fridge I'd be vary wary of the 6mm. This is my setup and may/may not suit your needs, I'm not trained as an autoelec. Planner |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 30, 2015 16:24:53 GMT 10
Planner - Funny you mention 6b&S - i originally stated this before changind my post. Basically this is big enough to handle the amps but not so big as to be a paint wiring it up.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 30, 2015 16:43:45 GMT 10
Brace yourselves guys......Silly question coming your way....What's B&S |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 30, 2015 20:34:25 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2015 21:21:22 GMT 10
I wish wire was simple...
Always go one size heavier than the calculator says you need
Buy a multimeter and learn how to use it. Ideally the 12v power at your fridge should be no more than 0.5V less than at the battery.
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Post by planner on Dec 1, 2015 8:11:29 GMT 10
Planner - Funny you mention 6b&S - i originally stated this before changind my post. Basically this is big enough to handle the amps but not so big as to be a paint wiring it up. Tasmillard, It was too big to crimp with the cheap small crimpers I had, so I soldered all the connectors on. Recently I bought a new ute and decided to install a dual battery setup myself. I lashed out and bought a bigar** crimping tool, now I can work with 1/0 B&S (bigger than starter motor cable). I agree with Sean, go bigger than the calculator (or autoelec) says, it won't cost much more to overengineer. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2015 8:39:27 GMT 10
The solder vs crimp debate...
Soldering does give a good electrical join, however the heat makes the copper brittle
Probably not so much of an issue in a caravan that wont leave the bitumen and wont do a lot of km's but this is the reason why manufacturers use crimp joints just about everywhere in vehicles
I prefer screw terminals myself
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Post by doublechevron on Dec 1, 2015 8:44:09 GMT 10
The solder vs crimp debate... Soldering does give a good electrical join, however the heat makes the copper brittle Probably not so much of an issue in a caravan that wont leave the bitumen and wont do a lot of km's but this is the reason why manufacturers use crimp joints just about everywhere in vehicles I prefer screw terminals myself I look at it this way ............ I've never had a soldered connection fail. So long as you have the cable tied down so it's not constantly flexing, I can't see why it would ever fatigue and break. Screw on terminals are only any good for "inside" in my experience. They fill with mud and water and the wire dissolves in them. I always solder and cover with a quality heat shrink to keep moisture out  Most crimp on connectors I find on cars (as in 99.9% of them) will easily pull out of the crimp. So are worse than useless IMO Factory crimps would be done with a hydraulic crimper. They are crimped so tight the wire is effectively welded onto the terminal. seeya, Shane L. |
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Post by snoops on Dec 1, 2015 9:20:15 GMT 10
I do the same as Shane - solder all joints and heatshrink. Never had a failure of a joint I've made this way
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Post by doublechevron on Dec 1, 2015 9:50:53 GMT 10
I think most poeple struggle with solder as almost all cheap soldering irons don't get hot enough to solder wires together  My wife got me one of these for my birthday years ago. www.warrenandbrown.com.au/precisiontools/product-details/scope-irons/100 They are nothing short of brilliant. The heat and power you get out of them allows you to solder almost all automotive wiring. (be warned you need to purchase the transformer seperately .... so it ends up being "not cheap"). seeya, Shane L. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2015 9:53:05 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2015 10:01:08 GMT 10
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Post by doublechevron on Dec 1, 2015 10:36:34 GMT 10
Oh yeah Gas irons should get plenty warm enough. I've never used one. How do you stop it getting to hot? Does it have a burner regulator on it? seeya, Shane L. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2015 15:17:37 GMT 10
Yeah it has a temperature adjuster on it but I tend to run it flat out and work quickly.
In my experience if you're using heatshrink and it's close to where you're soldering it's better to have a hot iron and do a very quick solder than a cooler iron that takes more time and lets the heat soak up the wire towards the heatshrink.
Glue lined heatshrink is always worth the extra money too
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Post by snoops on Dec 1, 2015 18:16:47 GMT 10
Yep, the scope irons are the ducks guts. I've got about 8 or 10 soldering irons at last count, from temperature controlled units to a home made scope iron I made as an apprentice. It still goes like a champ - heats up in under 10 seconds, and takes standard scope parts - tips and carbon. I have a good littles gas iron as well which is bloody handy for small jobs - I always have that in my tool kit when I travel and I've got plenty of people out of trouble with it over the years.
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 1, 2015 20:16:54 GMT 10
Roof hatch is out now. No wood rot..... Bugger of a job getting the thing out. Will seal up the replacement hatch during the week, and fit
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Post by tasmillard on Dec 1, 2015 20:39:04 GMT 10
Great news myarrow1  |
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 1, 2015 20:58:18 GMT 10
Tasmillard, Gitano's video came in very handy tonight with regards to my hatch. . |
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Post by tasmillard on Dec 2, 2015 5:39:34 GMT 10
Glad it helped out myarrow1... I have learned loads through other people making videos so its good to know I can 'pass it forward'.
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 5, 2015 18:25:14 GMT 10
New second hand hatch is now in. Forgot to take photos. The hole was packed up with 3mm ply on 2 sides with the old unit. Of course, the replacement wouldn't fit with the ply there. Removed that and then fitted the hatch.....All good......Except that internal plastic surrounds are now too short. Mad dash up to Bunnings to get some Dark Grey Gap Filler. Turned out quite well in the end......Was abit stressful there for a bit, lol
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 22, 2015 20:34:28 GMT 10
Well.. Brakes are now done. Seized wheel cylinders,so honed and replaced rubber cups, cleaned re packed bearings etc, replaced master cyl and ready to bleed up system......Can't get any fluid up to the cylinders ! Had to go searching...Bloody flexible hose is blocked. I searched the shed for some thin wire to try and unblock but couldn't find anything... Compressed air wouldn't budge it either. A job for tomorrow it seems.........
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Post by tasmillard on Dec 22, 2015 20:40:17 GMT 10
Good progress by the sounds of it, and also the 'usual' things one finds with old vehicles...
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Post by myarrow1 on Dec 22, 2015 21:12:10 GMT 10
Hi Tasmillard. Was hoping to have the brakes all done tonight, but it wasn't to be. Very frustrated..... Kinda glad I was running out of light, so I could walk away.......
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Post by tasmillard on Dec 23, 2015 17:53:58 GMT 10
Yes i get like that, doing the j-rails i know i need to stop around 4pm else i run out of light (and steam).
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??!
My wife got me one of these for my birthday years ago.