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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2015 18:53:17 GMT 10
I pic will be appreciated, with tasmillard we have done both end on his Millard and the plywood bend very well following the shape of the van.
We have done the same, first we secured the top and then slowly we pushed the ply into position.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 15, 2015 19:01:22 GMT 10
 Hi Gitano. Bit of an average pic (poor light). Wood is slightly narrower than wood frame, so it doesn't stand out. I left a 5mm gap at the top with the ply, and this helped me locate the ply at the top, behind the window frame ( this made sure it was all level/straight before screwing it in place). Worked a treat and was able to do it without an extra pair of hands..... |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2015 19:25:34 GMT 10
Thank you for posting it, very neat job. I am thinking in 3mm marine ply for the job. Should be easy to bend like in the Millard.
I have to do a bit of repairs in both walls bottom corners but it should be easy.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2015 20:47:19 GMT 10
It's not terribly hard to get the rear cladding off to do the ply from the outside
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 21, 2015 16:01:46 GMT 10
Hi all. Got the front bunks mounted back up again, and the cupboard in too. Anybody know what I'm supposed to use for the bunk poles  ?? Mine were missing when I bought it... |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 21, 2015 16:19:39 GMT 10
They are just alloy tubes, nothing special at all.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 21, 2015 17:25:26 GMT 10
Thanks for that Tasmillard. That must like curtain rod ?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2015 17:36:38 GMT 10
Thanks for that Tasmillard. That must like curtain rod ? Very close to that, in my Arrow are about 1/2 diameter and 1mm wall thick. IMO ony suitable for kids up to 50 kg |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 21, 2015 18:09:32 GMT 10
Thanks for that Gitano. I thought the same thing with the whole bunk set up. Very little holds them to the wall. I did quite abit of strengthening and it's rock solid now, as I've got teenage kids and didn't want the whole thing falling off the wall, lol
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 22, 2015 7:38:03 GMT 10
They can hold some weight, my brother used a front bunk on his father in-laws Franklin and it held up ok... 85kg lol. Its funny how both the millard and franklin have simiiarities in design, the biggest difference is one has alloy frame.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 22, 2015 12:35:56 GMT 10
Lol geez i bet the old bunk frame was creaking and groaning !!!!!!!
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 22, 2015 12:37:49 GMT 10
Do u reckon id be able to source the rod from Bunnnings ?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2015 13:26:44 GMT 10
Do u reckon id be able to source the rod from Bunnnings ? Yes and if you like to have something stronger go for a round aluminium tubing with thicker wall. No need painting, is light and no rust. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 22, 2015 13:46:14 GMT 10
Definitely stronger is the go... might take the plastic locator at the bottom with me, to get correct diameter.......
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 22, 2015 16:31:20 GMT 10
I dont think a much thicker wall is required as the road (load) is vertical. He said there was no issues with the weight, but it was a once off.
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Post by tedalley on Nov 23, 2015 18:27:48 GMT 10
If anyone is interested ..... ive got the two top bunks, support rods etc from my van.
It had 2 x double bunks that i replaced with an island bed.
Ted
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 23, 2015 18:53:32 GMT 10
Hi Ted. I bought a length of curtain rod from Bunnings today. They have a thicker wall type, so I bought that one. Seems to be strong enough....Very little flex. Was thinking I could fill them up with liquid nails, if they flexed too much, but seems to be ok.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2015 7:04:41 GMT 10
Drag racers used to fill tube with expanding foam to add strength without adding much weight. Be messy if you used too much tho!
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 24, 2015 18:50:37 GMT 10
Up in Bendigo for the next 2 days for work. Dropped in to Inspiration Paints. Was asking them about Heat Reflective paint for the roof of my Franklin. Apparently Solacoat is the go ! As the sides of the van only need a light coat touch up they reckon I can use this stuff over the whole van. Reckons I would need to water down up to 10% to spray, and reckons 4 L,should do it. They don't stock it and would have to buy in. $110 plus freight..Approx $150 all up. Sounds like it may be the go...... Any thoughts |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 28, 2015 16:10:23 GMT 10
 Very busy day today. Managed to sort out the rot behind the fridge, and it's all nice and solid now. Wasn't game to dig too deep below the floor line... |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 28, 2015 21:15:31 GMT 10
Hi all. Gotta hook up my 12v system to run USB and cig lighter plugs. Will be to charge phones, maybe run a fan etc. What size twin core wiring do I need to use ??! |
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Post by tasmillard on Nov 29, 2015 7:55:21 GMT 10
Just go with as thick as you can. But, as I found out with last trip, I had a cig lighter set up to run the little fridge and it melted the connector. But the merit type plug, this is what I have done on mine, however you also need the female as the cig lighter isnt the same.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 29, 2015 9:32:58 GMT 10
Thanks Tasmillard. I would imagine that a fridge would draw abit of current ? Back to eBay to look at wire, lol
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Post by snoops on Nov 29, 2015 15:52:52 GMT 10
What sort of current draw are you looking at? Also, are you looking at wire to run to the final sub circuits or to go from your battery to the fuse box?
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 29, 2015 16:23:54 GMT 10
Hi Snoops. Wanting to keep it simple. Will run through a fuse box. Phones etc via USB ports, and a couple of Cig Lighter ports too, for a fan , TV possibly....... Would I use heavier wire for the cig lighters ? I've got 1 x USB/cig lighter socket flush mount at the front of the van, and a surface mount USB/cig lighter for the rear drawer set, and thinking may be 1x cig light socket (only) on the side of the van ( for an auxiliary LED light)
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?? Mine were missing when I bought it... 
