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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 7, 2016 17:34:01 GMT 10
Well mate. I've got my fingers and toes crossed, that they'll be ok. Either too dim, or melt the Retina s in our eyes, lol
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
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Post by leeron on Feb 7, 2016 21:16:56 GMT 10
Just noticed you were looking for good 12 VOLT LED light inserts for your original light fittings.
. I purchased Jaycar part no. ZD0670 which is a six inch diameter panel led board that is round to retro fit the newer power hungry 11 watt fluro lights.
I carefully removed the hot glued fluro socket off the back, soldered two short wires onto the old contacts on the back of the circuit board and then drilled a hole in the centre being careful not to go through one of the conductive tracks on the printed circuit board.
Then I just joined the positive and negative wires into the wire terminal screws on the 12 dc Bakelite bulb holder that was already there.
Then I just slid the whole led panel onto the threaded centre shaft that holds the diffuser onto the circa 1960's light and screwed the cover back on.
Took the 240v bulb out, as I have 900 lumens of low power led light and the round oyster fitting still looks original.
ZD0672 is a warm white part no. If you don't. Like white light. This light is as good as a Phillips 240v 24watt cool daylight fluro and I use this on an inside light for food prep, eating reading etc. And also fitted one into my large round outside oyster, to turn night into day when cooking outside or when I have visitors in the canvas annex.
The oyster lights above each bed have had the same treatment except I have just put tiny stick on strip Leds inside them(Jaycar part no. SL3951)(again wired into the back of the 12 dc bayonet terminal screws) for courtesy night lighting but retained the 240 bulbs for when we are hooked up.
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Post by Rattles on Feb 7, 2016 22:10:42 GMT 10
Lumen's to watts depends upon the type of light source see table below:  The Direct Bulb LED Replacements are designed to work in a Cars Tail light assembly and rely on the Reflector behind and beside using a parabolic reflector to send the light in one direction, if used in a light fitting which does not have an efficient reflector then the LEDs facing away from the Diffuser/Cover will not other than the light bouncing off the white background, that is why I went fore the 2 LED pads for the outside oyster and 4 LED Pads in one of my internal Oyster fittings and a Round 42 LED Fluro Replacement panels in the other Two. The 24 Rectangular LED panels give a more even light however the Round panels appear brighter, Both are cool white however the 24 Rectangular LED Panels appear whiter, almost blue. One advantage of the 24 Rectangular is if there is a need to reduce brightness/current draw then the connectors can be separated giving the choice of 1-4 LED Panels. From my experience in converting from Fluro/incandescent to LED for the interior Lights the 24 LED pads are the easiest to fit as the have double edged tape to attached the pads to the light fitting, are cost effective $12.00 a pair and supply as good or better than the alternatives. My son has an Oyster light that has both 240v and 12v switches on the side of the light fitting and as the 240v was removed from the fitting he uses one switch as a master and the other the switch 2 LED panels on and off for when the need for less brightness/current draw. I have just finished converting all internal and external lights from Fluorescent/Incandescent including the stop/tail, indicator and clearance to LEDs. Rattles PS - You will notice from the table above the Fluro lamps (CFL) and the LEDs are not a great difference in watts per lumen however this table is for 240v replacement LED Lamps and not 12v LEDs, the 12v LEDs do not have Step down circuitry thus uses less power and are more reliable. |
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Post by snoops on Feb 8, 2016 14:45:11 GMT 10
Some good info there Rattles. I run 240 volt globes throughout my van - and all run 5 watt Phillips LED globes. The chart is right in the money - they are similar in brightness to an old fashioned 40 watt globe. Plenty of general illumination to see by in a van. Task lighting requires a bit more.
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 22, 2016 17:02:42 GMT 10
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Post by fnqfranklin on Feb 22, 2016 17:21:17 GMT 10
Lookin good there myarrow, nearly finished? Btw the wife was looking at your prev pics and liked the 3 hanger swing out hand towel rack you have. Did that come with the van or did you buy it? Would love to get one.
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 22, 2016 18:47:21 GMT 10
Hi fnq. Yeh almost done. Gotta mount the outside cig lighter thingy on the outside of the van, wire up the 12v to the oyster light, and my old man is gonna weld 2 new stabilizer legs under the front. Will paint drawer bar (black) and good clean inside and that should be it. Needs to be ready for Easter
The swivel towel rail is pretty cool. Possibly a throw back from the 70's lol.
It did come with the van.....
Hows your van coming along.
Pete
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Post by fnqfranklin on Feb 22, 2016 19:10:49 GMT 10
Hi Pete, SLOWLY! But all good. Just sorting out 12 volt set up as well and looking at doing something like snoops in regards to better extracting heat from fridge to the outside. I'm trying to keep the look as best can. Also got some heat proof paint for the roof to apply. So plenty of projects which I'm sure won't end there. Just so hot up here in the tropics to do much and the van is outside so it's a heat box. I liked your idea with cutting out the timber the same profile as the front top so it won't cave in again. Fingers crossed with mine, why are there so many that get banged up.
Gav.
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 22, 2016 19:39:59 GMT 10
It takes PLENTY of time, that's or sure ! I definitely recommend strengthening the top front section, as there is virtually nothing behind it. I'll take some pics of y 12v set up tomorrow. I'm running through an automotive type fuse box. It turned out pretty well. We've got an auto elec friend who got my sorted out how to set it up etc. Very simple set up as its only for internal lighting, USB points for phones etc and outside oyster light and the cig point on the outside for anything auxiliary
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Post by fnqfranklin on Feb 23, 2016 7:02:55 GMT 10
Will see how goes with the front as I pushed out the dents but we have since painted the wall in front of it. Just had another look and as I'm missing my front protector screen and the dents were even I'm wondering if it blew off.
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 23, 2016 9:10:25 GMT 10
Hi fnq. You may find that pushing the dents out may not be enough. Mine only had a very slight dent, and in the drive home when I first bought it the head wind was terrible, and it pushed it in in 2 places and looked yuk.....
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 11:14:39 GMT 10
   My Franklin is back, with the awning all fitted up. Looks great. I'm rapt with it Looking very nice. How you secured the top holding brackets of the awning? Have you drilled trough and put backing plates inside? Can you take a photo? I am planning in the future to not use the annex in my van |
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Post by fnqfranklin on Feb 24, 2016 21:35:52 GMT 10
Hi Pete, would love to check out your 12 volt setup you mentioned as I'm at that stage.
Cheers Gav.
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 25, 2016 8:06:22 GMT 10
Hi Fnq. Should be able to send some pics of my 12v set up tnite
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 25, 2016 17:58:01 GMT 10
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 25, 2016 18:06:02 GMT 10
 forgot to add this one, for the portable solar panel...... |
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Post by fnqfranklin on Feb 25, 2016 20:35:30 GMT 10
Great job, it's a bit more full on than I imagined doing myself(not being a autoelec) but at least you know it will keep everything safe. Hmmm more to ponder on. Is your battery under the bunk area?
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 25, 2016 21:18:13 GMT 10
Hi fnq. It was actually quite easy to do. An auto elec friend told me how to set it up,and it tackled it myself. A $15 auto fuse box, so wire and off I went. My battery is under the couch LHS of the van, under the lift up lid
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 26, 2016 7:13:39 GMT 10
Hi Gitano. Mate I will take some close up pics of the awning mountings over the weekend for you. Cheers Pete
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2016 9:12:31 GMT 10
Hi Gitano. Mate I will take some close up pics of the awning mountings over the weekend for you. Cheers Pete Thanks mate I appreciate it. |
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Post by atefooterz on Feb 26, 2016 23:33:17 GMT 10
Great looking system!
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 27, 2016 11:37:49 GMT 10
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2016 11:56:11 GMT 10
Thanks mate for posting.
At the front mounting, inside, needs a back plate and drilling trough?
That it is my concern, how to hold it in a manner that will held in strong wins.
I was considering bring it forward to have some shade in the door LHS window.
Mine has different layout than yours
Cheers
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Post by myarrow1 on Feb 27, 2016 16:07:04 GMT 10
Hi Gitano.
They just use approx 8mm coach screws straight into the wood. I've got a bit of rot still at the rear, so he is gonna come back and use a bolt/lock nut straight through (will come through in the inside bottom of the drawer set, so it won't be seen). He reckons normally it would be fine, but he just wants to make sure...)
Does feel very solid though, and will be using anti flappers on both ends as well as guy ropes on the 2 ends......
Interior is done now. The bride has added 'her touch', (and bloody throw cushions !!!!!!! Lol )
Fitted the stereo in the rear cupboard (out of sight) too.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2016 16:09:19 GMT 10
Thanks mate
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