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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2015 20:32:36 GMT 10
I got a linda star, restoration project. Juts got home from sydney will post photos later..
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Post by Mustang on Jun 4, 2015 18:52:15 GMT 10
I got a linda star, restoration project. Juts got home from sydney will post photos later.. ASAP Please  |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2015 16:49:01 GMT 10
Here is the photos so far on facebook. I'm not doing all that photobucket nonsense. Does anyone know of a fiberglass repairer in brisbane ? |
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Post by Mustang on Jun 5, 2015 17:33:11 GMT 10
Here is the photos so far on facebook. I'm not doing all that photobucket nonsense. Does anyone know of a fiberglass repairer in brisbane ? Hey your avatar is just like you  Why don't you learn to do the fiberglass repairs yourself & save hundreds$$$$ |
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Post by atefooterz on Jun 5, 2015 23:51:02 GMT 10
Maybe bring it to the QLD Classic camp & we have a DIY course to set you up ? |
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Post by Damian C on Jun 9, 2015 19:27:37 GMT 10
I can't log in atm for some reason.
1. The avatar, ot please be patient I'm answering the question.
Many years ago when south park first started a friend found a website that let you make your own south park character. He made little pictures for everyone one in our social group. I use mine on most forums. Facebook I've got a photo atm but it's often the little cartoon.
2. I'd like details of the queensland classic camp. I can probably do sound glass repairs but I'd like to do near invisible patches to the LS. It's a great thing but being nearly as old as me it's been mucked about with quite a bit. When I have time I'll do the photobucket thing and post some better photos but right now I'm terribly busy.
My plan atm is to sort the legs, clean it properly and use it a bit. I know I want to modify some stuff, and return some aspects to std. Once that process is sorted I'll do a nice refinishing.
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Post by atefooterz on Jun 9, 2015 23:21:07 GMT 10
The main issue is the expired polymers in the original layup. The real deal is do you want your repairs to last another few decades or a fix up and sell. The final blend will depend on the gelcoat colour and mixing skills with patience and a few pots of pigment colours to blend. This colour issue is why most tend to repaint an entire unit, 2 pack urethanes work a treat. As with any bodywork the skill is being patient with an eye for detail, fair then smooth, topcoat and buff.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 15:15:36 GMT 10
I misunderstood your previous post. I would be interested in a fiberglassing course, I really don't have time to go camping atm.
Simple refinishing isn't the problem. There are a lot of holes and damage from the last 40+ years. Some have been patched, none well. There's plywood and csm all over the shop, drips bubbles dips. Much of it is a lower standard than I would do.
Another complication is attempting to restore the origional patterns and textures in the glass. It's got a floral scroll pattern on many panels withing and the usual leather grain on the roof. There is also the shapes.
What I want to do first is clean back the dirt and dodgy paint. I started today with a wire wheel but it's too aggressive. I'm going to have to find something easier or I'll end up just stripping the gelcoat off everything. Then I'd like to do invisible patches and reinforce areas that need it. The doors are going to need a lot of work. Finally once I've got everything else done I'll take out the windows etc and refinish the whole unit. I was thinking marine paint, high build primer then gloss white, either urethane or epoxy.
I've left my ad on gumtree in case a better one comes up. I'll keep working on this one but if I've got an opportunity to trade up..
I'm a bit time poor and not as well and fit as I once was hence my idea to farm some or all of it out. I'd imagine professionals in this area have techniques faster and better than what I can do...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 15:40:48 GMT 10
Hi, A discussion started on my wanted ad but it's probably more appropriate here ? I'm starting the resto on my linda star. I would verymuch appreciate any help/thoughs on it. I've created a photobucket thing. Hopefully below are some detail photos.    The sticker is still there although partly painted over. I don't know what those bars are under the front window ? Can I remove them and fill ? |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 15:46:26 GMT 10
I started with a scrubbing brush and vacuum, moved on to a wire wheel on an angle grinder, which was too aggressive. I need to clean back the dodgy paint, dirt etc, and patch the holes and repair the damage.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 15:50:40 GMT 10
I've started a thread in the technical secion, more appropriate than here I think. I'm going to break the facebook link and add photobucket pics in the technical thread.
Thank you for the help!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 16:20:34 GMT 10
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Post by atefooterz on Jun 10, 2015 16:36:25 GMT 10
Heya Damian, long term the best thread issue is to start one in the hall of fame section, the mods can then move all the posts into one area. If this is a long term project then anything is possible, being 2015 and what we know about resin reinforced materials. Your camper was built to a price so many things are done for that reason. Likewise i am sure cost will be a factor in how you restore/ reinvent this project! A great example are those bars, most likely timber covered in matt & glue. Plus factors very strong and reasonably light, downside if any moisture gets in the timber swells and delaminates from the GRP (glass reinforced plastic) If weight and long term strength is an issue then buying a roll or few metres of carbon fibre is a cost effective and everlasting way forwards. On a budget then finding some old timber to recycle, old boat/caravan office fittout will provide good quality old stiffeners to burry under CSM (chopped strand matt)The reason for recycled timber is that after drying it out (if neccesary) it will be of straighter less flawed by knots old school stuff, 1/3 to 1/2 the weight for same strength as buying from the green shead new stuff. The other option with that framework was is it all glass? Some production shells use an interior mold to make hollow tube sections that when bonded to the exterior shell create a space frame kind of stiffening matrix. If no holes already exist maybe a few exploratory ones to see what is what. Remember as you have maybe already discovered old glass cannot be glued to create a "mollecular bond" as original so any repairs need to be "keyed in" so rough grooved surface that allows the new glass to cling onto and survive forces from many angles. ( mechanical bonding)Beware fumes from anything that heats up the repairs as sometimes it can include cyanide and be deadly, if no gas resprator is used, also helps when laying resin. During the 1960s they discovered the average lifespan for polyester resin workers was less than 20 years! Just wearing a dust mask is only part of the issue and the fumes far more damaging. You have the best fibreglassing course in your yard now just start on the areas that are hidden then by the time show and tell bits come to play your skillz will be way above what you may have learnt in a several week tech course Most of your repairs will be just freestyle then later we can look at making temporary/ solid molds, as required to get the matching textured finish results. Pics from a few angles or showing exactly what you are asking about will help. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 16:58:26 GMT 10
Hi, A discussion started on my wanted ad but it's probably more appropriate here ? I'm starting the resto on my linda star. I would verymuch appreciate any help/thoughs on it. I've created a photobucket thing. Hopefully below are some detail photos. The sticker is still there although partly painted over. I don't know what those bars are under the front window ? Can I remove them and fill ? Hi Damian,
Great to see you starting on the repair journey, I will move this thread into the hall of fame shortly and add in the other posts and you can update us from there, look forward to seeing it live again.
Cheers edit - I have tied your 2 threads together but left your wanted ad in the wanted section OK - will move this shortly
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2015 11:02:36 GMT 10
Heya Damian, long term the best thread issue is to start one in the hall of fame section, the mods can then move all the posts into one area. Ok, I've made a bit of a mess I'm sorry about that. I would appreciate if the wanted ad could stay in that section because as I said above I would still be prepared to buy another especially if a walkabout came up. If this is a long term project then anything is possible, being 2015 and what we know about resin reinforced materials. Your camper was built to a price so many things are done for that reason. Likewise i am sure cost will be a factor in how you restore/ reinvent this project! I should probably point out that I'm a mech eng and a sailor so I know some stuff about glass, but not much about repairs. I've thought more than once that it'd be easier for me to do a 3D scan of the camper inside and out, tidy up the model and have cnc moulds made and make one from scratch in epoxy/eglass and maybe some pvc foam. I've got a few ideas on how to make better patches, but I don't know how viable they are. One would be to put mould release on areas in good order and make a thin section using maybe 100 gsm surfboard fabric and epoxy and make that the surface over the hole and reinforce behind it, but I don't really know  A great example are those bars, most likely timber covered in matt & glue. P I'm not sure what your talking about. There are 2 steel bars running transversely. These engage the legs. The only timber I've found so far is bits of ply used to block up holes cut by previous owners. Someone has put expanding foam into some of the cavities. I don't know if this was stock or done later. I would prefer to eliminate timber as much as possible, and also replace the mild steel shs with stainless if I can. I don't know that carbon is warranted. Weight isn't a big issue with them only coming in about 300 kg originally. I can move it about with a solid shove of the shoulder. Glass is wonderful stuff, virtually indestructible as proven by the survival rate of these campers. It is a bit thin in places though.. The other option with that framework was is it all glass? Some production shells use an interior mold to make hollow tube sections that when bonded to the exterior shell create a space frame kind of stiffening matrix. If no holes already exist maybe a few exploratory ones to see what is what. Most of it is double skin. I was actually surprised by that. There are already many holes cut into it. I think all voids are accessible already. There has been some damage over the years but by fr the biggest problem is successive owners cutting holes and patching them poorly. Then doing really dodgy paint jobs Remember as you have maybe already discovered old glass cannot be glued to create a "mollecular bond" as original so any repairs need to be "keyed in" so rough grooved surface that allows the new glass to cling onto and survive forces from many angles. ( mechanical bonding)Beware fumes from anything that heats up the repairs as sometimes it can include cyanide and be deadly, if no gas resprator is used, also helps when laying resin. During the 1960s they discovered the average lifespan for polyester resin workers was less than 20 years! Just wearing a dust mask is only part of the issue and the fumes far more damaging. You have the best fibreglassing course in your yard now just start on the areas that are hidden then by the time show and tell bits come to play your skillz will be way above what you may have learnt in a several week tech course Most of your repairs will be just freestyle then later we can look at making temporary/ solid molds, as required to get the matching textured finish results. Pics from a few angles or showing exactly what you are asking about will help. Poly/vinylesters have one set of problems epoxy another. As you say with mismatched resins I think it's safer to go for the glue. Unfortunately none of the patches are really hidden, they will all be visible. Bit of a bother really. My problem right now is stripping paint off the gelcoat. Can't use chemicals so I need to find a mechanical means that won't wreck the gelcoat as I go. Thank you for your help! |
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Post by atefooterz on Jun 11, 2015 14:27:10 GMT 10
^Have you ever tried the citrus paint stripper? Maybe that is a better way to remove without mega toxic issues. It all depends on what sort of paint is to be removed, any urethene- two pack stuff would not be easy. All mechanical abrasion will chew into the gelcoat under. even 2000grit wet and dry will scuff but not a biggie if you stay away from the fibre layer then again you do not know what they were hiding or how deep they keyed in this top coat. Sounds like a long carefull slog ahead.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2015 11:57:56 GMT 10
Looks like house paint. Can the citrus stripper be used over glass ? if so I'll try it. First I'm going to focus on making or buying some legs. I can't believe they charge $1200 for a set of news ones. They should be $100 each...
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Post by atefooterz on Jun 12, 2015 13:37:31 GMT 10
If you are removing an acrylic house paint then the citrus can do the job, it is slow so the house paint will start glooping off way before any damage to the polyester layers of the glass layup. For example using it to remove really bad housepaint off a door that had old emamel under even soaking overnight i was able to peel off all the housepaint with not much impact on the sturdy enamel, so my original plan to strip back to timber was scrapped then a fine sand to the old dull enamel then new top gloss coat that went mirror shine perfect
like anything new to yourself test and try in an area that is not visually important first to fine tune what works for yourself. Maybe the differeance between coating an area for 1-2 hours then using a scotch brite to start removal (using strong rubber gloves) or repeated applications of stripper over 24 hours then wash off. Maybe even a combo of a few styles will proove best for that application and the paint to be removed with minimal damage to whatever is under that paint. (talking generally not just this project)
EDiT: A comparison may be like removing rust off chrome, my bar fridge had a rusty top corner hinge, i used rust converter and got it back to 90%ish shiny chrome with a few bubbles BUT the main damage is fine scratching, from what looks like steel wool/scourer over indulgence. Brute mechanical force may seem the best way but long term results may be what counts. Laminex cleaned with ajax & or any abrasive powder style cleaners look flat and get more ingrained dirt after a while than one that has had grime/ oils soaked off, in the long term. As only the dude who painted over the glass knows what is under it is impossible to know what you have until that top coat is off I am sure we have all seen glass that is chalky and fibres exposed from UV, or worse interior damage from osmosis where a lake of rain water and usually rotting leaves, has allowed water to soak right through an area that is now bubbling/ peeling, sponge like and not firm and worse the leaves twigs have let algae- bacterior grow right through making any repair near impossible.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2015 9:38:47 GMT 10
Thank you for that, I'll give it a try. I've only used the strong strippers and they would rot the gelcoat I think. A chemical solution would be much better.
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2016 22:18:30 GMT 10
Hi, I'm new here but also an throwing myself into a Linda Star resto. Mine's in reasonable condition but some very unoriginal changes as the photos show. Plus more the photos don't show... Someone in the past made some major changes but fortunately that were well executed. How did you go with the paint stripping and recoating? Any good tips you could pass on? Have you got yours "on the road yet"?   |
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2016 11:22:35 GMT 10
How did you go with the paint stripping and recoating? Any good tips you could pass on? Have you got yours "on the road yet"? I sold my unrestored one and bought a restored one, which is also now for sale on gumtree. I have health problems and don't think I'll ever get to use it now. So sorry no help to you. Good luck with yours. I think they are a wonderful thing. |
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Post by atefooterz on May 4, 2016 11:59:09 GMT 10
How did you go with the paint stripping and recoating? Any good tips you could pass on? Have you got yours "on the road yet"? I sold my unrestored one and bought a restored one, which is also now for sale on gumtree. I have health problems and don't think I'll ever get to use it now. So sorry no help to you. Good luck with yours. I think they are a wonderful thing. I was wondering how you got on Damien, sorry to hear about your health issues. Mine have slowed down travelling, catching up & doing things so i know exactly how that feels & loss thereof. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 28, 2016 19:26:57 GMT 10
Damien,
Did your newer Linda Star get sold? My brother is now wanting one as well.
Hope your health is improving.
Thanks
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For bookings Ph 07 54599070 ask for "Kerry" There is a group booking in the name of Thorp, when booking ask to be with or as close to that group. 
