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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2015 12:59:06 GMT 10
OK
I went to the local race track and asked a jockey what sort of wheels he had and he took me to the carpark and showed me a nice BMW, when I asked him how did he fit it to the "A" frame of his caravan - he gave me a filthy look and hit me with his whip.... 
Seriously, I am interested in everyone thoughts about jockey wheels, I have a removable one that has had a lump of pipe welded to it, and it is a 6" wheel. Now going to a 8" wheel would this make the van easier to move around ? whether on grass or concrete ?
Cheers |
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Post by pisces51 on May 2, 2015 17:41:20 GMT 10
G'day lockyer, In theory the larger the wheel diameter, the better rolling performance over uneven ground. But when the ground is even/firm, you are not likely to get any significant benefit from the larger diameter wheel. The key point with jockey wheels is to ensure the bolt/axle through the wheel is well greased so the wheel turns as freely as possible. Some of the older/better-quality jockey wheels have a grease nipple fitted to the end of the bolt/axle (sorta the same as spring shackle bolts). Also grease the inside of the telescopic tubes so the swivel action of the wheel is nice and free. When you are trying to manouvre the 80kgs ball-weight around, you need all the help you can get!  cheers, Al. |
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Post by 2lateagain on May 2, 2015 18:14:44 GMT 10
I put the purple line caravan movers on my 67 Viscount and one of the suggestions to make it move easier on gravel was to fit a wider bigger jockey wheel, so I purchased a 10" known brand (which I cannot remember) and yes it was easier to move around on cement and gravel, all was good until I decided to put the van on the back of the Pajero and I was not able to get the van down low enough to be able to hitch up as the wheel was too big no matter where I put it on the clamp set up, and it missed going on the ball by about 50mm, so I have gone back the the normal 6" wheel and no further problems. Just something to think about, see if you can get a measurement and unless it has a high drawer bar or coupling you may be spending money unnecessarily.  Graham |
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2015 18:30:23 GMT 10
I would never have thought of that, thank you, will take a ruler/tape measure with me when the time comes.
cheers
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Post by atefooterz on May 21, 2015 1:07:23 GMT 10
Mine has the original centre of the A frame removable small 6" solid wheel- with 2 welded ridges to stop sliding up the clamp. Something i am discovering the last 9 months of many sites is that i adjust the fitted height a lot, so i do not have to wind out too much. The other bonus on sloping park sites is unlike the white box neighbours with a gazillion lumps of timber off cuts to jack up i just have my wheel clamped lower. Just as important as wheel size is inflateable tyres! The skiff trailers can weight close to 2000kg and we have to push them over lumpy grass due to council issues with cars, 8" pump ups become our really good friends, if short/ single handed to move the trailer.
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Post by doublechevron on May 21, 2015 15:20:46 GMT 10
Caravans are very difficult to move on jockey wheels... imposible if there tandem axle. My answer is to put a heavily offset towbar on the front of the car. I just recently sold my old range rover that had an offset front towbar..... So I think I'll make a hitch receiver for the replacements towbar, that way I can just move the towbar from the back to the front to move caravans and trailers around with.
seeya,
Shane L.
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Post by doublechevron on May 21, 2015 15:26:44 GMT 10
Mine has the original centre of the A frame removable small 6" solid wheel- with 2 welded ridges to stop sliding up the clamp. Something i am discovering the last 9 months of many sites is that i adjust the fitted height a lot, so i do not have to wind out too much. The other bonus on sloping park sites is unlike the white box neighbours with a gazillion lumps of timber off cuts to jack up i just have my wheel clamped lower. Just as important as wheel size is inflateable tyres! The skiff trailers can weight close to 2000kg and we have to push them over lumpy grass due to council issues with cars, 8" pump ups become our really good friends, if short/ single handed to move the trailer. The windsor I've just bought has some weird ass jockey wheel that is a part of the coupling. It has two "blobs" on the side of it two lock it into the coupling, and a wind in clamps to lock it into place. Somoene has already modifed the handle of it poorly (I figured out why the other night.  see how it's built into the middle of the hitch housing. It was incredibly stiff, and I found after I rebuilt it, didn't lift high enough as the handle would get trapped against the hitch coupling if you dropped the wheel through far enough to get some height. You can buy replacement plastic wheels. I pulled it apart and cleaned away all the crusted, rotten old grease, regreased it all and added a bearing into the neck of it. It now works smoothly and well. But I'll need to cut 'n' weld the handle so it's raised by several inches. That way you can drop the wheel right down into it's housing to lift the caravan higher, but not end up with the handle trapped against the hitch coupling. seeya, shane L. |
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2015 15:34:00 GMT 10
Hi Shane,
Is your jockey wheel removable ? If so I have seen extra long one's a couple of places, I'm not sure how they measure jockey wheels but measure your totally open and closed and seen if you can find one that is longer. Then the handle should be well above the tow hitch and save ya knuckles 
Cheers |
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Post by doublechevron on May 21, 2015 15:50:52 GMT 10
Hi Shane,
Is your jockey wheel removable ? If so I have seen extra long one's a couple of places, I'm not sure how they measure jockey wheels but measure your totally open and closed and seen if you can find one that is longer. Then the handle should be well above the tow hitch and save ya knuckles
Cheers Yeah, I removed it to dismantle it. You would need a jockey wheel housing with a couple of "nipples" on it, rather than the raised ridges around the outside of it to get them to fit. The easiest fix would be to fit a standard jockey wheel to the "A" frame. This ones placement right at the end of the drawbar means you will get less lift. I'm not fussed for the moment. I'll just modify the handle and leave it alone  |
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Post by tim on May 21, 2015 16:30:11 GMT 10
My parents have a Windsor pop-top about the same age, it had the same jockey wheel arrangement, but someone has fitted a more conventional one to the side of the A- frame, it works pretty well.
Tim
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Post by doublechevron on May 25, 2015 15:12:23 GMT 10
The old Chesney is on the market now ... and I wanted to stick it back into the shed until it sells. I'm always amazed how incredibly dodgy I can be. I looked at the tired old Rangey and wandered around the shed looking at whatever offcuts and scraps of metal I could find.  I wiggled the hitch receiver out ... it tooks some getting out first time around.  I didn't have any RHS even close to the right size... but a bit of pipe that was, so I tacked it behind the recovery point. This will be invisible if I paint it bumper colour. It works perfectly though  the caravan is about an inch away from the wall. The trick is to do this after dark so the shed isn'ta "black hole". This time though I just plugged in a lead light from each truss so I could see if the caravan was about to touch the lights (if it was going to touch ... it was about to hit the wall uprights too). Nothing is harder the putting a caravan into a black hole ... you have to get light there. seeya, Shane L. |
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Post by Mustang on May 25, 2015 19:16:50 GMT 10
A real clothes line!!!!!
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