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Post by peter92 on Oct 23, 2011 21:16:12 GMT 10
hi AL, thanks for that info, i am learning a lot
when you say about the walls, i was going to leave the walls on the chassie as i dont have anywhere to put things out of the weather, so what else would be the best way to clean out that area and how else could i seal it, and what with
if you think the best way is to take the walls off, how would that be done
regards peter
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 24, 2011 15:24:14 GMT 10
G'day Peter,
It's difficult for me to give you accurate advice about the walls, because I've never worked on a Viscount, and I can't quite see how the internal cladding fits down near the floor in your pictures.
Somebody like scotia59 would be a better person to ask, since they are working on a Viscount similar to yours.
Even if you don't take the wall completely off the van, you may be able to prop the roof up while you undo the front half of the wall along the chassis, and bend it away from the chassis just enough to allow you to remove the wall cladding. Then you could fix that front half back onto the chassis which would then allow you to undo the rear half and work on that. Sometimes you have to come up with some really creative ways of doing the job.
cheers,
Al.
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Post by peter92 on Oct 24, 2011 18:34:45 GMT 10
thanks AL, your advise is great.
i have just taken off the cladding on the side where the rust is, managed to cut the z piece out which mesures ruffly 1500mm and get some one to bend one up for me, then weld it back on
i didnt see any sealant on there so where would i put it, after that , i will put the cladding back on and that parts done, i hope
regards peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 25, 2011 19:01:53 GMT 10
hi all, well had a good day today on the van, quite pleased.
got the z bar cut out and new on welded in , just about finished that side. have 2 more gussets to put in and get the tape al was telling me about before putting all the bolts and lock down plates
will put pics up tomoro as i ran out of light. it cost me $38.00 to get both pieces made up, so thats great. will update my progress tomoro
regards peter
ps i got gal z bars made ,will i have to paint it so it wont react will the ali
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2011 11:07:17 GMT 10
hi Peter, Alex put black tape over the z bars to prevent them touching the ali and then bolted them on.
Don't know if that is any help to you?
Jean
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 27, 2011 12:11:37 GMT 10
G'day Peter,
I wouldn't bother painting the new galv bars. I'd just run some tape along the bar where the aluminium cladding makes contact. Corrosion will be less of a problem with galvanised metal than it is with plain steel, but I still think for the cost of a roll of tape, it's worthwhile putting some sort of barrier between the two metals. When I bought my Laserlite tape in Bunnings, it was about $26 for the roll. Now they stock a much cheaper brand, which costs about $15 for the roll. Look for it in Bunnings where the polycarbonate roofing is stocked.
Otherwise you could use any decent waterproof tape if you've already got some in the shed.
cheers,
Al.
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Post by peter92 on Oct 27, 2011 15:41:01 GMT 10
thanks jean and AL
thanks jean, i wasnt shaw if he put any on there or not
AL, its a bit late about painting the gal, i already painted that one side and all finished apart from putting the cladding back on
i went to bunnings yesterday and couldnt see any tape there, and when i asked for help, was told to just pick something that rain wont get past. werent helpful at all
will go out tomoro and find the same laser lite tape you have and do it properly
by the way i really app all your comments and help
regards peter
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 27, 2011 17:35:35 GMT 10
G'day Peter, I don't think Bunnings stock the Laserlite brand anymore. They stock the Suntuf polycarbonate roofing now ( link) and the Suntuf purlin tape that goes with it ( link) The tape will be over in the roofing products section. cheers, Al. |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 27, 2011 18:34:25 GMT 10
thanks for the link AL, yeah i looked at it on the link and just wondering if the pop rivets would pull in tight enough when i put the cladding back on the side. also how thick is the tape. your input would be great
regards
peter
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 27, 2011 19:11:23 GMT 10
The tape is only 2 or 3mm thick. You might need to use a slightly longer rivet to allow for the tape thickness, but it'll tighten up ok with the pop-rivetter.
cheers,
Al.
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Post by peter92 on Oct 27, 2011 19:23:13 GMT 10
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 27, 2011 20:49:04 GMT 10
G'day Peter, I sorted out all the photo mishaps, and everything is now in the one post.  Not a bad looking job there. Looks like everything's coming together nicely. The jack worked well holding up the roof, aye?! Nice going, so far! ;D ;D cheers, Al. |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 27, 2011 21:19:07 GMT 10
thanks for fixing up the photos AL, dont no what happened there. i did the same as last time. yeah the jack worked well, was worried about how strong the roof was, had thoughts of jacking it up and seeing the roof fly off. looks better now its all cleaned up and painted
i have a few rips in my plastic mud guards, any ideas on how to fix them or any other options
i noticed you have new ones on yours, can you tell me how much they were
regards peter
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 28, 2011 7:13:56 GMT 10
If you are talking about the mudguards on my bondwood project van, they are the original guards just painted up. The guards in your van are probably made out of polyethylene or polypropylene. You'll find there are only a limited number of ways of repairing them. Selleys make a plastic glue that claims to bond the two types, but I've never used it to know whether it's any good or not. I think for these types of plastics, the surest way to repair them is by plastic welding. See if there's anybody in your region that does this sort of thing, and have a chat with them. I've seen on forums on the internet that you can do some homestyle plastic welding, by melting plastic hose and letting it drip onto the poly item, but again I've never tried it to see if it works. Maybe other members have more experience than I do. cheers, Al. |
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Post by 66viscount on Oct 28, 2011 9:05:57 GMT 10
try some q bond
its a 2 part glue plastic or metal ive tested it brom bumper bars to m/c fairings it will do the job
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2011 15:32:25 GMT 10
looking good Peter - also looking very familiar!!!
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Post by peter92 on Oct 28, 2011 18:08:01 GMT 10
yeah, thanks alex and jean
its time and im learning a lot
and yes its like looking at yours
well every one, i have taken off the door side today and tomoro will take out the z piece and see how i go
am enjoying it alot
pop rivveter stuffed up yesterday so spat the dummy and port a puma air pop rivverter, now that i like
regards peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 28, 2011 18:19:21 GMT 10
g,day every one, im on the look out for a piece of cludding for my van size 800x600
if any one has a piece with my profile can they please let me no
i dont mind paying postage as i no its hard to find
regards peter
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Post by peter92 on Oct 28, 2011 18:32:34 GMT 10
for got to ad something
i can get hard wood flooring 2400x1200 x12mm for $48.00 per sheet
would this be suitable for the floor of our van
any input would be app
regards peter
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 28, 2011 19:04:11 GMT 10
Hardwood flooring in an 8 x 4 ft sheet?? What's it look like, and what is it actually made of? Is it plywood made out of hardwood timber?? Do the edges of the sheet have a tongue on one side so you can lock the next sheet together? The reason for all those questions is that I reckon 12mm is too thin for the floor of your van, based on the spacing between the chassis framework. You might be able to get away with it if the sheets were the tongue and groove type, and you laid the sheets across the width. But gees, I think you'd be cutting it fine using flooring as thin as that. I used 12mm plywood on the floor of my bondwood project, but look at how much more metal there is in the chassis of that van versus the chassis of yours...  cheers, Al. |
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Post by peter92 on Oct 28, 2011 19:11:21 GMT 10
hi AL, thanks for you thoughts, could you tell me what flooring to buy as i wouldnt have a clue
i wouldnt be happy if i bort the wrong stuff, and explain how i join them together please
regards peter
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Post by millard1399 on Oct 28, 2011 20:42:05 GMT 10
Use the same thickness for the floor as the stuff you took out of the van. You'll need four sheets by the look of your chassis. The centre chassis rail from front to rear will be where you have the long joints, and the other centre chassis rail from side to side above the axle, will be where you have the short joints.
The main difference between the plywood you buy these days, and the ply that was used on your floor, is that in the 1970s the ply had a plastic coating on one face, which faced down to the road. The plastic face gave some protection against stone chips being thrown up by the tyres. Nowadays, you have to coat the underside of the ply if you want to give it the best protection.
For my bondwood project, I just used some Wattyl Solaguard paint and painted all the underside of the flooring. That'll do the job ok.
The type of plywood you buy will really depend on your budget. For the spacing between the steel bearers in your chassis, you'd be better off with a structural grade if you can get it. Bunnings have a few different thicknesses of plywood in the CD-grade (which is the lowest grade of ply you can get). Next time you're in Bunnings, have a look at the two sides of a sheet of CD ply. The "D" side is the side with the manufacturer's printing on it. Have a look at the quality of the surface. Then compare it with the other side which is the "C" side. You could get away with using a "C" side showing inside the van (you'll put some sort of floor covering over it anyway), but I don't think the "D" side quality will stand up to much water being splashed up from the road, even if it was painted. But, see what you think, because the CD grade is the cheapest you'll find.
Bunnings also carry that black coated plywood that is used for concrete formwork, but I think that's pretty expensive.
The best compromise is to buy some BC-grade structural ply with an "A" bond. The "A" bond rating means the glue in the timber layers is water resistant. Get a quote from Bunnings at their Special Orders desk, but I think you'll be looking at a price up around $80 per sheet for 15mm thickness, and around $90 per sheet for 17mm thickness.
cheers,
Al.
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Post by peter92 on Oct 28, 2011 21:17:01 GMT 10
thanks for all that AL, will check it out asap
we are having trouble with our internet so if you dont see me on for a while its because they are sending out a new replacement wireless for the laptop
regards peter
ps my email still works on our duaghters phone
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Post by peter92 on Nov 3, 2011 19:13:39 GMT 10
hi all , well got everything sorted out.
have finished the sides now and now looking at changing the 2 bits of timber front and rear of the kerb bits where the ali meets the chassie
then to put the new floor in
regards peter
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Post by peter92 on Nov 9, 2011 16:46:02 GMT 10
hi all, computer all fixed.
if i buy the form work ply which is used for concrete any ideas on how to seal the joins so they wont let any water in
i would hate to get it all finished and later find it has water coming up through the joins
regards peter
hi al, could you show me how you think i should lay the timber on the chassie please
i only want to cut the timber once
thanks al
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