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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2015 16:14:31 GMT 10
Hi all. I stumbled across this sight the other day while searching round trying to find out what an old van that I'm buying is. I found out that it is a viscount Duralvan. I am going to puck it up next week and start my renovation on it. What tips have people got for me? The van is stripped out all ready so i have a blank canvas. In tossing up between going modern or the old school look. I was also wanting to know what people suggest to use to re line the walls and roof. Do you use ply if so how thick?
Thanks Alan
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
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Post by leeron on Mar 4, 2015 16:24:16 GMT 10
Depends what year model, Early models like mine were a painted super thin five ply and later models were a similar thickness surface laminted laminex brand product.
Some pictures will help with chassis no. Off the A frame.
Leon
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2015 16:09:51 GMT 10
Thanks Leon. Ill put some pics up when I get the van next week. I was thinking of using something like 3mm ply for the walls and white laminated malamine mdf for the roof.
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Post by atefooterz on Mar 7, 2015 14:14:54 GMT 10
Watch out with the mdf for putting weight up high where you do not want it, when towing, plus any stray water will quickly damage it, water always finds a way somehow somewhere, why caravans moved on from bondwood to alloy, blown styerene and laminex, water restistant construction, by the classic era!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2015 21:38:36 GMT 10
3mm wont add much weight to it. I know what mdf is like as im a boat builder and have seen it in some boats that have had home jobs done on them. The only reason i am considering it is that it comes with malamine already laminated to it so no paint easy clean surface. I am planning on takeing out all the windows and the skylight and clean and re seal them. I looked at lamy pannel but its $190 a sheet.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2015 21:40:48 GMT 10
What do people normally use for the ceiling?
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Post by atefooterz on Mar 7, 2015 21:48:21 GMT 10
Yep lamy is not cheap at all dammit, maybe just steam off the mdf from the melamine & wet laminate (vaccy bag) onto a closed cell 10-25mm core (Divnycell F) lolz! What roof insulation is there? Are you re using the existing styrofoam?
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Post by tedalley on Mar 8, 2015 22:47:36 GMT 10
Alan Hi.
Do yourself a favour and put the van over a weighbridge before you start then you will know how much weight you have added.
Remember each sheet of 3mm ply weighs close to 5kg.
I left the old ply on for extra strength and glued the new ply onto it.
With all the other extras I am looking at getting new springs & axle as I'm now 480kg over.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2015 8:15:48 GMT 10
From what I've seen with my viscount I would be. Be doing a complete internal gut and adding structural support, before I would start any type of work on restoration I would be inclined to weigh the caravan 1st as with any modifications you make as you may also need to update the wheels and suspension as well.. That will be to cater for the extra weight you are going to be adding..
Also Norte with doing a gut atleast you can go through and update things as required and this will also allow to fix any metal damage you have discovered on your way of repairing the classic caravan you have brought.
As much as I would say keep thing original the reality of that appending will become a null point as to bring things into code of today within safety and so forth the reality is you will be adding weight as you restructure the caravan..
Marine grade ply will be mandatory so timber doesn't fail..
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2015 14:43:14 GMT 10
Well i decided to check out the wheel bearings and possibly replace them before i buy it or move it. To my horror i found that the Rh side stub axle and bearings are stuffed. The thread in the nut is non existent and there isn't much left on the stub so the whole thing was flopping round. The left is perfectly fine. I have just been to repco and supercheep and cant get the bearings or a new stub axles so suit. Now im beginning to wonder if its really going to be worth it. My friend was only asking $500 for the van.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2015 18:18:45 GMT 10
I'd be towing it on a flat bed if I were you. You might want to check ether undercarriage aswell if you got stripped nuts on the wheels I would be thinking there will more hidden damage you can't see and if that is the case after you get those wheels fixed I'd find someone the has an open pit to check the under carriage of the caravan.
id offer $250-325 max given the wheel issues alone because just to tow it yourself off property you'll bee sinking in excess of $400-1,000 just to get it to a point you can move it from its current location..
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
Posts: 46
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Post by leeron on Mar 9, 2015 19:47:33 GMT 10
Well i decided to check out the wheel bearings and possibly replace them before i buy it or move it. To my horror i found that the Rh side stub axle and bearings are stuffed. The thread in the nut is non existent and there isn't much left on the stub so the whole thing was flopping round. The left is perfectly fine. I have just been to repco and supercheep and cant get the bearings or a new stub axles so suit. Now im beginning to wonder if its really going to be worth it. My friend was only asking $500 for the van. What do you expect for 500 bucks ? 500 again for all new brakes, drums, uprated axle, bearings and tow coupling to suit new electric brakes, then rims to fit over the new brake drums and tyres. You would have to spend this to pass rego anyway after fitting it out internally. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 12:56:10 GMT 10
Well i decided to check out the wheel bearings and possibly replace them before i buy it or move it. To my horror i found that the Rh side stub axle and bearings are stuffed. The thread in the nut is non existent and there isn't much left on the stub so the whole thing was flopping round. The left is perfectly fine. I have just been to repco and supercheep and cant get the bearings or a new stub axles so suit. Now im beginning to wonder if its really going to be worth it. My friend was only asking $500 for the van. What do you expect for 500 bucks ? 500 again for all new brakes, drums, uprated axle, bearings and tow coupling to suit new electric brakes, then rims to fit over the new brake drums and tyres. You would have to spend this to pass rego anyway after fitting it out internally. Is there regs somewhere that state what restored/rebuilt caravans have to have? |
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Post by bobt on Mar 10, 2015 13:38:03 GMT 10
Gidday Wombat
If you check on the web site for you local vehicle registration authority you should find the regs.
bobt
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
Posts: 46
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Post by leeron on Mar 10, 2015 19:57:16 GMT 10
Don't be fooled into thinking that owning a van costs nothing.
Unfortunately they must be maintained to a minimum standard and all the little things add up to a lot more than people realised before they purchased their van.
If the interior is gutted as you said, to keep the weight below the rating of the original axle will be quite difficult to achieve unless you intend to just throw a mattress on the floor at one end a couple of milk crates for dining at the other end.
With a weighbridge certificate of its weight now before starting you will be able work out how much you can add without uprating all the running gear underneath.
Goodluck
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 21:11:31 GMT 10
I understand that they require ongoing maintenance, they are a pleasure vehicle that has wheels they will eat money. At least its not a timber boat (Bring Out Another Thousand). I have been running round trying to find bearings etc for the axle i can get the bearings but that doesn't help the stuffed stub axle. I asked and found i can get a full electric break axle for less than $500. Does anyone know what stud patten these vans are and what the stub axles are from? I'm guessing its american.
As for the inside fit out i don't see how it will weigh more than it did originally as i am basically going to copy what it was just make it modern. While using light weight materials and for the cabinetry just make light frames with thin ply skins. I'm used to making things as light as possible for boats.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 21:12:43 GMT 10
Gidday Wombat If you check on the web site for you local vehicle registration authority you should find the regs. bobt Ill have to check the vicroads website again as i couldn't find anything. |
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Post by bobt on Mar 10, 2015 21:42:55 GMT 10
Just go look at what is required to register a trailer. It is rather easy, when you stop and think about it it is scary. But I am not going to argue..
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Post by atefooterz on Mar 10, 2015 22:51:29 GMT 10
Just go look at what is required to register a trailer. It is rather easy, when you stop and think about it it is scary. But I am not going to argue.. This is an excellent point! I have been very lucky that my mobile mechanic who started his own workshop then got NSW Pink slip & now Blue Slip accreditation, was helpfull,so while have already done a few trailers, mine was the first caravan, so the official helpline got a workout! As a punter just asking clerks at Maretime & Roads would be epic and nearly as time consuming as the resto itself, with different answers each call contracdicting the previous advice, online is a maze of bits & pieces written in jarganese so again a steep learning curve required. |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2015 8:13:43 GMT 10
 Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted  We did up old Millard 17 footer. (Not sure what year, maybe someone can tell me) You can still buy roof and wall sheeting, not cheap but looks great. Used polycoated ply for all the cupboard doors etc. ( these sheets are cheap and could be used for your ceiling and walls )I built the doors and used plastic angle mould on the sides, looks great, easy to clean and very light weight. We gutted the van and started from scratch. Also bought foam offcuts from a factory and lined ceiling and walls before we started, great insulation, polysty foam cost $25. Had mobile mechanic come and do all brake and bearing work at home, best option. Replaced windows with house windows, so far no cracks or breaks, used rubber from Clark rubber around frames. Lot of hard work, blues etc but worth while, it's like new. ( attach some photos for you ) |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2015 8:26:01 GMT 10
Meant to say we had hard time in QLD with rego, ( about 3 yrs ago) soooo many trips to Transport Qld, you can download all requirements, van had no stamps on chassis etc. It became very stressful but at the end of the day it's all worth it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2015 8:27:45 GMT 10
Sorry can get posting right, posted msg twice
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Post by boblor on Mar 11, 2015 11:38:42 GMT 10
Hi wombat
Sharp Plywoods produce a 3mm polyester faced plywood, very light in weight and strong, and about $33-36 per 8'x4' sheet. I have used this on many ocassions, and you can produce a top job with it each time, the facing is as hard as, just wipe clean.There would be other companies other than Sharps who would have this 3 x ply.
Cheers boblor
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 19:34:51 GMT 10
Well i gave the Duralvan the flick as it wasn't going to be worth it. I have now picked up a complete Greythorne that was towable.
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