STICKING PERSPEX TO ALI FRAME, DOES PERSPEX NEED SEALLER

[peter92]

Hi Guys, Ive got 4.5mm perspex and want to glue it inside the frame and do i need to put a sealler on the persex so the sealler will stick
I rang SIKA AUSTRALIA and they said i need to use 2 brands of stuff, 295 uv for ALI, and SIKA PRIMA 209D for perspex
Has any glued perspex in with out using this sort of stuff
The PRIMA is $90 for 250mm
Any help would be great please
Regards Peter

[atefooterz]

Hiya Peter,while you wait why not ring a perspex place for their recommendations?
www.acrylicsheets.com.au/ [phone] came up on google
Cheers Ate

[bobt]

Gidday peter92

I was having a little trouble trying to work out why you want to glue perspex to an Aluminium frame then I came across a post discussing grand kids (aint they great). Have you thought about using the rubbers that held the original glass in place?

[peter92]

Hi Bob, yes i did but im not using the 2 windows in the frame, ive taken them out and only thinking of putting the perspex in the out side frame ,sitting the perspex in it, so if you can picture the rear window in one piece thats how it would be
Been trying to think of a way of sitting the perspex in the frame with out sticking it in, but havent came up with an idea yet
If you look at my rear window in HOF, theres a pic of it
open for suggestions as if i stick the perspex in and it leaks im in deep dododos
Regards Peter

[tim]

I've glued perspex into stainless steel. Its not totally successful. Sikaflex is about the only thing that will do it, but its not great at bonding to either substrate. The primer would probably help a bit. Its critical to make sure that any grease or oil is removed and the primer probably helps with that. I looked up the SDS (safety data sheet) for the primer and its described as a black polurethane solution. It is predominantly ethyl acetate (nail polish remover) and 10-25% Methyl Ethyl Ketone (PVC pipe primer), with a small amount of 4,4' -Diphenylmethane Diisocyanate, which is the main ingredient of expanding polyurethane glues, like gorilla glue. So there you go, mix up some of your own.

Tim

[atefooterz]

Great chemical run down thanks Tim, MEK is rather toxic from long term exposure & was banned from being a basic cleaning fluid in the 70s, the DD is a cyanide, Strychnine compound so no working in confined spaces as all your body will absord it, especially as it is made into a vapour with the MEK & methane mix, many boat builders have died while working with thse things wearing resperators & it the absorbtion by skin that does it, usually over more than 45mins-1 hour to feel sick, ,45+minutes with documented fatality. not that long when heads down and mucking around!Most deaths have been exposure of 2 hours plus. Makes the old 70s Trichlor Airfix glue seem like perkins paste lol.

[peter92]

gee guys, sound like where making explosives not a primer
iv got 2 windows coming for the van from nsw, i hope, dont know about this perspex stuff but ive got a hole piece 4.5mm thick and wider than my window at the back, so dont know what will be done with this sheet if i dont use it, cost 140 bucks, that made the minister for finance happy
Regards Peter

[atefooterz]

Sounds scary Peter but one does need to know what they are playing with, or used to back in the day. When fitted will the perspex be under the alloy frame, so when closed it is snug against the van side, or outwards facing..so if it fell out it would land on a following car? You could of course just use metho or similar to clean the alloy, do not use metho or any solvent on perspex ever as it will make it crack & or craze very quickly, sometimes within 5 minutes. How are you planning on shaping/ cutting the sheet? Using masking tape to protect the clear suraface you can use 180- 240grit paper to gently sand the side that will be sikered, this mechanical bond is safer & cheaper than using chemicals make sure you have at least 1mm UNDER the height of the frame so any oops will not be seen, also no oozy expensive toxic stuff to wipe off,as that will be most of your mission when fitting it after cleaning frame, again masking it off,apply sikka fit window into frame *wipe any excess really well!,then remove tape just as the sika has set, resist the temptation to play/clean anymore as you most likely will squeeze out more & or get finger prints, wipe haze, any build up along the previous masking tape line will easily peel off within 24hours, or just gentle fingernail action to help lift it, if stubbon.

* A box of tissues is usefull, every time use a fresh one, no skimping,do not get greedy-frustrated wiping just baby steps with a new tissue each time this will make the clean easier to see as you go plus almost guarantee no finger prints from the underside of a folded dirty tissue now putting another line/ gobs of sikka, while you clean (or think you are cleaning) up. A box of those disposable thin gloves are also great, sometimes i will put on 3-4 on each hand so in case of any mess i can use my teeth to rip off 1 glove & chuck it & instant clean hands again! Black gunk is not forgiving in the visual tidy stakes!

[peter92]

Hi Atefooterz
heres the frame with the windows taken out, perspex is sitting where the window would touch if it was on there, closed
Thinking of putting a rubber around the edge of the perspex, like a H and using sika , put it both sides of the rubber to hold the perspex on

What do you recon
Regards Peter

[atefooterz]

If it was mine i would most likely see if i could get a rubber seal that would keep the window/perspex in place without leaks, that way it could be replaced, if damaged or down the track when the sun affects it (if i had it that long- or easier for the next owner) The idea of using a compound like sika or sillicone is in stead of using a rubber seal. As i said earlier depending on the use of the van & bumps & dust plus twisting, that a van does when off the motorways, depends on how bulletproof you need it. Both ways should not leak.