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Post by glennv on Jun 3, 2013 17:04:33 GMT 10
Resurrecting this thread to see if anything may have changed in anyone's thoughts in the last 3 years. I read this with great interest as I too am the owner of an old RM76 Electrolux fridge, and in talking with a refridgeration guy, he said that installing a 12v heating element would be a complicated affair (achievable ... but complicated). I have been a slightly scared and naughty lad and have run my fridge on gas while in flight. Gotta tell you though ... it doesnt make me overly happy. I spoke with an auto-elec today, and if I have interpreted what he said correctly, his recommendation was: Tug Battery --> Redarc Smart Solenoid --> Anderson systemHe went on to say that we need to be careful of any surges going back into the vehicle electronics, which is why he suggested the Smart Solenoid, not to mention that it will always protect the "start battery" by shutting down when input drops to 12.7v. Further, if I ever install a battery bank in the van, we could adjust the setup to have the van battery charged by the car. While I am at it, I would get him to change the current "hot wire" on my 7pin to source from this solenoid too. Reading the earlier posts in this thread, we would then add: Anderson system --> DC Inverter --> Plug in RCD --> Fridge The compliance plate on the front of my fridge states it draws 135w at 240v, so I figure a 300W inverter gives me plenty of headroom. I was considering the Projecta IM300 Modified Sinewave (which states the input current in 30A at 12vDC). Although, I also note it doesnt seem to have an inbuilt mounting capability. Never mind, we might have to fabricate a bracket of some sort. In the IM300 manual, it states " Projecta inverters have been internally bonded for safety, by connecting the AC socket earth pin to the inverter case and to the DC negative supply input". The manual goes on to say that if required in mobile applications, a connection to chassis earth can be installed if required. Would the more knowledgable on this forum recommend this ? or ... NOT recommend ? For some reason, I suspect the best course of action is NOT to connect back to chassis earth (but I cant explain why). Refer www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/inverter.pdf page 3 " Inverters and Safety". I then figured a plug in RCD from Middys of a reputable brand. So, with the progress of time, has conventional wisdom changed on this topic ? In reading the earlier posts, I note the fear of live current finding its way to some unsuspecting punter touching the van. Can I ask, are we talking about a failure (through whatever means necessary) of the device connected to the inverter ? or are we talking about failure of the inverter itself ? or both ? (sorry folks, just my ignorance of things electrical....  ) If I am to end up looking like Yahoo Serious I would like to know about it ...   Glenn. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2013 20:40:53 GMT 10
yahoo serious, how funny...what ever happened to him, lol.
thanks for the update glenn, i've read through this post so many times, just to make sure that i have set mine up correctly.
must admit, that sometimes i get lost in it =/
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Post by mike on Jun 23, 2013 19:49:37 GMT 10
Greetings
The topic got complicated as a lot of info was provided by other people.
In the end, the way ours worked was as described.
Pull out the 3pin plug at the back of the frig n plug in a switched powerboard.
Then..
Hotwire a 6mm wire from a re-setting fuse near the car battery to the plug or Anderson plug at the rear of the car. We put in a 'cut-off switch on that wire near the gear stick console.
Continue that 6mm wire thru to a convenient point near the frig to mount a 12v dc / 240v ac inverter.
That's it.
You then have a choice of
State grid 240v power thru the powerboard, usually when on a powered site
OR
Inverter 240v power from the 12v car battery when on the move.
That basic system still works today.
If you wish, you can add other protections, but we didn't add those because the current is manually switched off at the console when the motor is turned off!
Cheers
Mike
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Post by glennv on Dec 2, 2014 20:16:03 GMT 10
Hi folks,
resurrecting this thread (again ... and I am sorry). After 18 months, I have started to get my bits and pieces together so I don't have to run my old 2 way fridge on gas while in flight.
Just to recap, the compliance plate on the fridge says it draws 135w at 240v.
Recently I purchased a Haze 120AH VRLA AGM battery, and a 600w Powertec (Jaycar) modified sine wave inverter. Documentation says it will supply constant 600w or surge to 1200w.
I plan on fitting the AGM into the van to be mounted under the day nighter right beside the fridge.
So simply put:
Van Battery --> Inverter --> Socket RCD --> Fridge on 240v. I am working toward having a charging circuit from the car (right now the car is at the autoelecs getting a redarc smart solenoid installed and wired to a 12pin plug).
When travelling, I will pull the plug out of the shore power GPO and reconnect to the inverter.
My questions are these:
1. The inverter documentation says
"On the rear panel of the inverter is a terminal fitted with a wing-nut. This terminal is connected to the case of the inverter and also to the earth terminal of the AC output socket .... In a vehicle where the inverter is wired directly to the battery, the earth terminal is simply connected to the vehicle chassis."
My plan at the moment is to install a pretty heavy lead (lets say 4 gauge) onto said terminal on the inverter, punch a hole through the floor and use one of the bolts on the van chassis.
Is this the correct approach ? The earth wire would need to be of similar size to the positive and neutral wire between battery and inverter right ? (which ... are pretty chunky).
2. Should the van battery also have an earth lead ? If so, of what size ? In which case, I can create an earth terminal in my battery box and consolidate earth connections.
3. Does anyone have any recommendations on a suitably sized breaker/fuse ? Are these manually resetting breakers the go ? or just a simple spade fuse ?
Any help appreciated.
Glenn.
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Post by tedalley on Dec 7, 2014 20:07:32 GMT 10
Glenn. Hi.
My understanding is --- 135w @ 240v = 0.5A or 135w @ 12v = 11.25A so you will need wire that can take at least 12A with an inline 15A fuse.
I would connect the hot wire from the car directly to the Battery and the Inverter also directly to the Battery with an Earth wire to the chassis.
As an extra precaution I have a dual battery switch, in the tow vehicle, so that when the motor is turned off the power to the caravan battery is disconnected. This switch also has a wire going to a relay in the van so that the 12v going to the inverter is switched off.
This has an added advantage ... should I have an accident then the van isn't live with 240v.
Hope this helps
Ted
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Post by glennv on Dec 9, 2014 10:06:41 GMT 10
Thanks Ted.
Got the system up and running last night and seems to be purring away. I got myself a 600w inverter and the fridge pulls 135w (by my ammeter test its more like 144w), which gives me extra capacity should I need it.
I also installed a shore power charger so as soon as I connect at the van park I start charging.
About to install charging circuit from the car, bit trying to find elegant way to get into the van from outside (hole in floor easy but water spray concerns me).
My auto elec installed a redarc smart solenoid in the car so that side is all done.
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Post by tedalley on Dec 9, 2014 18:16:29 GMT 10
trying to find elegant way to get into the van from outside (hole in floor easy but water spray concerns me). I'd use hole in floor (if floor is timber) then after wires are in squirt heaps of silicon through hole and around wires Ted |
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Post by glennv on Dec 14, 2014 18:02:47 GMT 10
Well, I decided to run some 240v flexi conduit all the way up the draw bar, into a clipsal junction box, and then into floor.
Seals well, and removeable if need be.
At last, I now have a fridge I can run "on 12v" while on the move.
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Post by matts dove on Jul 14, 2016 15:16:13 GMT 10
Hi Im looking at doing this in my old jaydove.
has anyone done this and added a temp switch to turn of when the fridge gets to the desired temp.
Looks very do-able.
Cheers Matt
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Post by matts dove on Jul 14, 2016 15:18:09 GMT 10
Hi Im looking at doing this in my old jaydove. 12 volt element added to the 2 way fridge. has anyone done this and added a temp switch to turn of when the fridge gets to the desired temp. would save heaps of power. Looks very do-able. Cheers Matt |
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Post by tasmillard on Aug 4, 2016 15:43:22 GMT 10
Hi all - after re-reading this thread, I think ill go the 12v element install vs the inverter option. Has anyone installed the 12v element into the fridge? just wondering how this is positioned given its for the 240v one there already. Any info on this appreciated.
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Post by Matts Dove on Aug 9, 2016 8:40:23 GMT 10
Hi I know this post is very old now but i have a different alternative to running the 2 way fridges on a inverter.
I was in the same situation but after investigating the fridges i have found most have the provision for a 12 volt element already there.
I bought a 12V element. (slides in next to the 240V element).
I got a temp switch this will switch the fridge on and off when temperature goes up and down.
All up i spent about $150.00
I mainly went this rout as i don't want to have live 240V while travelling. Simply to dangerous if you ask me.
Cheers
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Post by tasmillard on Aug 9, 2016 8:44:43 GMT 10
Hi I know this post is very old now but i have a different alternative to running the 2 way fridges on a inverter. I was in the same situation but after investigating the fridges i have found most have the provision for a 12 volt element already there. I bought a 12V element. (slides in next to the 240V element). I got a temp switch this will switch the fridge on and off when temperature goes up and down. All up i spent about $150.00 I mainly went this rout as i don't want to have live 240V while travelling. Simply to dangerous if you ask me. Cheers Thanks for posting, this is basically what I want to do so ill have a look at mine and see if I can fir next to the 240v also. My concerns are also along the 240v hazzard as stated through this thread (something that did not even occur to me - so many thanks to all that have contributed). Cheers, |
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Post by Warrenk on Aug 9, 2016 10:02:34 GMT 10
My concerns are also along the 240v hazzard as stated through this thread (something that did not even occur to me - so many thanks to all that have contributed). I have been through the 2 way to 3 way conversion, but in the end I bought a 240v bar fridge and run it from an inverter from my caravan batteries. I have a dedicated inverter circuit protected by a RCD/RCD. This runs all the time while I on the move and free camping and only gets turned off if I go to caravan park where I am on 240v. I believe this to be quite safe. If you only want to run you 2 way fridge while your moving from your car battery or caravan battery an inverter will still be safe if you use something like a fridge switch. This will isolate the 12v supply when you stop moving(240v is then off), for the next level of 240v protection use a RVD power board from the outlet of the inverter ( www.safelec.com.au/powerboard.html ). I will using this system again when I wire a 12v system into my Olympic and run a 240v bar fridge. This way should also not require an electrician as there is only 12v wiring and plug an play for the 240v side. When you work out your 12v cabling size which takes in voltage drop go the next size up to ensure minimum voltage drop. If you are going to run from caravan batteries try to get the inverter close to battery to have the shortest possible 12v cable run. Warren |
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coxy
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Post by coxy on Oct 3, 2017 7:07:35 GMT 10
Hi Everyone
I have just joined the group, I have recently renovated a Millard 18 ft van and I too have used a invertor to overcome the 2 way fridge problem. I am using a 300 watt inverter along with an internal battery system, fused of course. To power the unit while travelling I have a DC DC charger wired in to charge the battery while driving. I have two Grand Cherokee's one petrol and a new Diesel, as with all new cars you the electrical systems of new cars sometimes play havoc when trying to charge an external battery, this is where the DC DC charger comes into play. I did have some issues with wire size to the charger but apart from that it works a treat, with this set up I don't have to have any switches because untill I start the car it runs from the internal battery then charges as soon as I start the car. The DC DC charger has a low input sensor so the moment I turn off the car it stops pulling power from the car, just have to remember to change the fridge over from inverter to gas or 240 otherwise I will have a flat battery on the van. I have battery monitoring system in the van which will alert me of this but best not rely on this.
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Post by snoops on Oct 3, 2017 18:38:14 GMT 10
Yep, nice work - similar setup to ours and very effective. Ensures a cold beer on arrival at camp. Oh, and welcome to the forum I'm sure everyone would love to see pics of your Millard too. |
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Post by Mustang on Oct 7, 2017 9:52:59 GMT 10
Hi Everyone I have just joined the group, I have recently renovated a Millard 18 ft van and I too have used a invertor to overcome the 2 way fridge problem. I am using a 300 watt inverter along with an internal battery system, fused of course. To power the unit while travelling I have a DC DC charger wired in to charge the battery while driving. I have two Grand Cherokee's one petrol and a new Diesel, as with all new cars you the electrical systems of new cars sometimes play havoc when trying to charge an external battery, this is where the DC DC charger comes into play. I did have some issues with wire size to the charger but apart from that it works a treat, with this set up I don't have to have any switches because untill I start the car it runs from the internal battery then charges as soon as I start the car. The DC DC charger has a low input sensor so the moment I turn off the car it stops pulling power from the car, just have to remember to change the fridge over from inverter to gas or 240 otherwise I will have a flat battery on the van. I have battery monitoring system in the van which will alert me of this but best not rely on this. Welcome to the group Coxy, please open a page in Hall of Fame & add images to your posts, there are tutorials at the top of H of F page. You are on the money with your first post well done. Cheers Brent |
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