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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:06:51 GMT 10
hi just brought this van a month ago, has water damage in the process of pulling out all interior and replacing frame work and ply panelling Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:09:15 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:10:07 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:11:21 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:12:30 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:13:05 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:14:08 GMT 10
photo 8 Has water damage behind the fridge in the frame work, needs replacing with unusual size of timber 24mm square, what timber could i use, anybody help!!!!!!! Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:15:35 GMT 10
photo 9 Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:16:16 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:17:19 GMT 10
photo 11 A new camec 4 seasons hatch to be installed here. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2012 10:20:21 GMT 10
photo 12 water damage here underneath the window. also can anybody tell me what year this van is. Attachments:
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Post by millard1399 on Mar 1, 2012 13:32:20 GMT 10
G'day jasdel, and welcome to the forum! ;D To work out the year of your van, we need the chassis number that's welded on the front drawbar, just beside the jockey wheel. Your van is later than mid-1973 because of the cast aluminium Franklin nameplate above the front and rear windows. The chassis number should start with a V, W, or perhaps X, followed by some numbers. I've always wanted to see someone pull one of these 1970s Franklins apart, to see how easy or difficult the job is. After Franklin built their all-new manufacturing complex in Ballarat, Vic. in 1967, they set about modernising their production methods, so that they could significantly increase their production. One of the new methods was to build the walls as a separate "sandwich" on the bench, before lifting the wall into position as one finished unit, and then joining it to the floor. The bonded sandwich means that all three layers of cladding, insulation, and internal ply, are all glued together with a 3M glue. It seems to me that it would not be easy to dismantle a Franklin wall without doing significant damage to one or more of the three layers. You, my friend, are about to be able to tell us whether this is true or not. We look forward to learning from you! ;D ;D cheers, Al.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2012 13:26:52 GMT 10
Yes the roof was a chalenge on dismantiling i was able to remove the internal ply but with the polystyrene foam coming off with it and breaking away, so i will have to buy some more 24mm polystyrene foam sheets now. But anyway all the roof has been removed besides the cladding and the all interior cuboards and beds, and fridge and so fourth has also been removed. Now currently in the process of removing the internal wall ply panels this doesnt look like is going to be easy, because it looks like the panels run down beside the floor, and because this van is outside in the weather would rather not remove cladding, so all windows will also have to come out as well. I have quiet a job on my hands. Do you know the cheapest best timber that i could use for the framing, i was thinking of treated pine but i am not sure as i am not a builder, i am a fitter & turner. Any way i will upload some more pictures of the dismantiling process soon.
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Post by millard1399 on Mar 2, 2012 14:04:47 GMT 10
G'day jasdel, Yes I would think you've got a bit of trouble ahead of you to remove the internal panelling down where it butts against the floor. Somebody else on the forum had that same problem, but I can't remember who it was (I think it was peterg and his Chesney??). Re the framing timber, you can have a read of this thread that was started a couple of days ago: Timber for framingThe framing in my poptop looks like it is meranti, and it's held up pretty well except for those patches that got water leaking onto them. I replaced those sections with treated pine, but only because I had some spare treated pine timber lying around that I could cut up to the right size. I have a van in my shed that was built in 1956, and the frame in it is made from radiata pine. It also has held up well for almost 60 years except for those sections that water leaked onto. I've reached the conclusion that it probably doesn't make a huge amount of difference which of the softwood timbers you use, it's more a case of keeping the van waterproof. How did you go with the chassis number? cheers, Al.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2012 6:12:11 GMT 10
Yes ok, some good info on that thread thanks. I think i will stick with treated pine because being an unusual size 24mm x 42mm to get Paulownia timber at that size was $8 a metre and the same for meranti which i thought was a bit expensive, i think it is around half that price for treated pine, and i suppose it also depends how much i will be needing as well, will have to wait untill all panelling off. Still have to get chassis number will post it on monday sorry.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2012 21:52:06 GMT 10
Hi jasdel, my apoligise for not replying to your comments on my Franklin Snipe earlier.......Been overseas! To quickly answer your question on the panelling......yes & no Some of it can be removed like at the floor (in my case anyway) because of the step in floor where the sub frame is attached to the outer walls but the floor was kept 10mm in off the wall if that makes sense? Floor & sub floor/frame are different width. At the top, l did trim it a close as possible as there's no other option except to remove the cladding which was not justified in my case. Its really only about 10-20mm you'd be missing out on removing and as you say.......a hugh job!! I decided against it, cut the panelling within 3mm & finished off with colored caulking......& my van took me almost a year. I also think your on the right track with the treated pine & if by chance your from Melbourne, I can give you some direction on supplies (if needed). If l can be of further help, please feel free to contact me on 0407368695 Cheers Mick Gman
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2013 21:40:36 GMT 10
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