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Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2015 12:55:04 GMT 10
Firstly Hi to all that reads this thread..
Ive taken on the role of restoring my 11ft york caravan, the van was saved from a person that showed no love for this van therefore i have lots to do.. im not exactly sure of the year it was made and im trying to locate where i can purchase a new roof.. the current roof has been badly hail damaged and leaks.. I thought while im resealing the van and have the corner trims of i may as well instal a new roof.. this will be towed also behind my 1961 splitscreen kombi.. can anyone point me in the direction of a new roof pls?? i was also thinking of using 3mm sheet aluminium if i cant find one. thanks in advance regards Jason
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2015 5:10:00 GMT 10
Hi Jason and welcome to the forum, your York should have a number and letter welded on the "A" frame something like "Y4357" this will give us an appox idea of the year. As for the roof, how badly hail damaged ? My van has plenty of hail damage, but the leak are normally from the edge trim, the sealer goes hard and cracks letting the water in.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 17:43:47 GMT 10
Hi Jason and welcome to the forum, your York should have a number and letter welded on the "A" frame something like "Y4357" this will give us an appox idea of the year. As for the roof, how badly hail damaged ? My van has plenty of hail damage, but the leak are normally from the edge trim, the sealer goes hard and cracks letting the water in.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 17:46:09 GMT 10
Hi mate thanks for the reply. The number in the chassis is Y 4705. The roof is badly damage from hail but it is warped in places and it's like you have your own swimming pool when it rains. Lol.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2015 7:43:13 GMT 10
Hi mate thanks for the reply. The number in the chassis is Y 4705. The roof is badly damage from hail but it is warped in places and it's like you have your own swimming pool when it rains. Lol. Hi JJ
Going by your chassis No your York would be a "71" year of manufacture I have carried out a search and found at 1970 York with the number Y3162, so your van was built 1500 chassis later, so depending on sales it could be 1971-72. If you could post some photo's of the roof area it will help with what we can suggest. Please see HERE for placing photo's onto the forum.
Cheers
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Post by doublechevron on Dec 3, 2015 14:16:57 GMT 10
Post some piccies and people will be able to make some more suggestion.... Your towing it with a splitty ?? I'm guessing 1st and 2nd gears are going to be your favorite seeya Shane L.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2015 8:48:01 GMT 10
I'll get a few pics today mate. As for towing it with my split bus I'm puting a 2.5 ltr watercooled subaru engine in. I plan on doing long trips with this and I'm not a fan of breaking down in the highway. Lol.
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Post by Gidget on Dec 7, 2015 12:13:51 GMT 10
Going by your chassis No your York would be a "71" year of manufacture I have carried out a search and found at 1970 York with the number Y3162, so your van was built 1500 chassis later, so depending on sales it could be 1971-72. I just saw this post and have to comment. The York with the chassis number Y3162 is mine and I'm only guessing it is a 1970 model. It's not registered and doesn't have plates so I really have no idea as there's very little information to go on. ditzygypsy.proboards.com/thread/3636/1970-11ft-yorkCheers, Lisa
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2015 15:51:11 GMT 10
Going by your chassis No your York would be a "71" year of manufacture I have carried out a search and found at 1970 York with the number Y3162, so your van was built 1500 chassis later, so depending on sales it could be 1971-72. I just saw this post and have to comment. The York with the chassis number Y3162 is mine and I'm only guessing it is a 1970 model. It's not registered and doesn't have plates so I really have no idea as there's very little information to go on. ditzygypsy.proboards.com/thread/3636/1970-11ft-yorkCheers, Lisa Well if we look at it like this, York Caravan first started in March 1969 and went through to 77/78. There is a members van on here with the chassis No 11844 and this is the highest number we have from 77/78 so working on they started at 00001 we divide 11664 vans by 9 years and we get approx 1300 van per year built (best guess) so Y3162 would be approx. 2.5 years into production or late 1971 and Y4705 would be approx. 3.5 years into production or late 1972. You have to remember that some years they would have made more and in other years less and this is just going on the law of averages. There was no serial number on the York or Millard Caravans that lines up to any date of build. Cheers
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Post by Gidget on Dec 7, 2015 16:16:42 GMT 10
Yes I agree with your reasoning Lockyer. Not wanting to hijack this thread but my van has double pane windows front and back and single pane windows on the sides unlike the majority of Yorks that have the triple pane windows. All the windows are push-out rather than wind-out. I'm assuming this is typical of earlier models???
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2015 16:13:25 GMT 10
My 11ft YORK is No.Y8228 and has 3 louvered windows per frame, so I think it's around 1975. Wall frames are aluminium, All roof supports were timber, With a lot of rot on the outer ends. I've replaced most of then with aluminium RHS, welded to the wall frames, all the leaks I found were at the corner joints. Hail damage on the roof is out of sight, are there any holes in the roof skin.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2015 8:34:59 GMT 10
My 11ft YORK is No.Y8228 and has 3 louvered windows per frame, so I think it's around 1975. Wall frames are aluminium, All roof supports were timber, With a lot of rot on the outer ends. I've replaced most of then with aluminium RHS, welded to the wall frames, all the leaks I found were at the corner joints. Hail damage on the roof is out of sight, are there any holes in the roof skin. Hi Spud
Mate if your caravan has alloy wall frames I would be saying it is closer to a late 77 or 1978 year as this is when Millard changed from timber frames to alloy. The "1300" vans built a year is just a guesamate. Now I doubt Millard would have use alloy in there models and not used it in the York range as well.
Cheers
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2015 16:30:44 GMT 10
Thanks for the info on the year, I'm just about to get it registered, so I'll call it 1977. Do you know when they did the three louvered windows.
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Post by captivenut on Dec 11, 2015 18:44:43 GMT 10
...Mate if your caravan has alloy wall frames I would be saying it is closer to a late 77 or 1978 year as this is when Millard changed from timber frames to alloy...
Cheers
Hi, I'm new here and a long way from being a York expert. But I'm researching and learning fast. I hope to complete the purchase of a 12 footer tomorrow with chassis# Y30xx (not sure about last 2 digits) which I believe, from reading other threads in this forum, is early to mid 1970 or thereabouts. It has full pane windows with rounded corners and aluminium wall frames but I'm unsure about the roof frame. I note that other York threads suggest that during the earlier production Oregon or aluminium frames were optional. All being well I'll get this little gem home tomorrow and have a closer look. Cheers
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2015 13:59:46 GMT 10
I think you'll find the roof framing will be timber. Good luck with the project.
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Post by captivenut on Dec 12, 2015 19:29:21 GMT 10
I think you'll find the roof framing will be timber. Good luck with the project. That's good to know & thanks for the encouragement! I got the van home this morning with a Vic roads 28 day permit for $23. Chassis# is Y3013 and has old expired SA rego plates and an SAA electrical compliance certificate dated 17-9-71 so I assume that may have been around the time when it was first registered in SA. The innards have been mostly gutted except for the overhead cabinets. Moving to the roof - the external roof cladding seems drummy in the centre (forward and rear of the hatch) and doesn't seem to be attached to the rafters. There doesn't appear to be any screws or rivets in the roof cladding apart from the corner moulding along the perimeter / outer edges....is that normal with a York timber roof frame?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2015 11:50:19 GMT 10
The roof in mine was full of Styrofoam, for insulation, but the ends of the roof timbers were rotten, which let the ceiling drop. After rebuilding and repacking the roof, it's pretty solid. I used aluminium RHS instead of timber in the roof, for strength and it also gave me something solid to mount a solar panel on. I also found that the wall frames were held to the chassis by big headed pop rivets. 90% of these had rotted off, so I've bolted the wall frames to the floor channels just to make sure nothing disasterous happens along the way. There was no fixings between the roof beams and the roof skin. Hope this helps.
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Post by captivenut on Dec 14, 2015 16:01:33 GMT 10
...I also found that the wall frames were held to the chassis by big headed pop rivets. 90% of these had rotted off... So if I drilled out all those rivets I could lift the body off the chassis? Thanks for the info on the roof. I've decided to strip out the ceiling lining and check/replace the timber as you suggest Thanks for the info!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2015 17:42:03 GMT 10
I think there's more than just the wall frames holding it on, probably cupboard frames as well and plenty around the floor. The plastic wheel covers were stuffed as well, I fabricated zinc alume ones. It looked like they had a couple of blow outs and totally shredded the plastic ones. Have you still got the stove and fridge.
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Post by captivenut on Dec 16, 2015 10:55:34 GMT 10
No, no stove or fridge missing seats, bed, hatch and some of the wardrobe, and 30% of internal cladding has been removed. It's got the sink and cupboard frame, original table & matching Laminex splashback which I may keep. I intend to gut it and refit in late 60's décor with domestic size double bed which means the wardrobe and sink cupboard will have to be reduced. I'm considering lifting the body and getting the chassis sandblasted and painted.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2015 15:00:44 GMT 10
I found the original chassis a bit light and under done. A lot of the "C" channel welds had broken and some channels cracked, especially around the springs. I pulled the draw bar, springs and stands off, and built a full length chassis out of 75mm x 50 mm x3 mm RHS, with a bar across the back for spare wheels, and lengthened the draw bar by 300mm, then welded the "C" to the RHS. Tows a lot better now.
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Post by captivenut on Dec 19, 2015 9:36:17 GMT 10
.....and built a full length chassis out of 75mm x 50 mm x3 mm RHS, with a bar across the back for spare wheels, and lengthened the draw bar by 300mm.... That sounds like you may have lifted the body off the old chassis? That makes you and expert in my mind and the "go to" for advice!... assuming you're willing to part with your intellectual property? Do you have any timeline pics of your project? I've found some of the corroded rivets that you mentioned and I'm thinking that my best approach is to gut and lift the body, sandblast & repair chassis, and remount and repair the body. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 11:11:51 GMT 10
I didn't separate the body and old chassis, I cleaned and rewelded the old chassis and sat it on top of the new one, which raised the van 75mm. I've got some pics of the project but am having trouble posting them, I've got them in photobucket, but can't get any further
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2015 11:57:07 GMT 10
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Post by snoops on Jan 5, 2016 5:12:44 GMT 10
I didn't separate the body and old chassis, I cleaned and rewelded the old chassis and sat it on top of the new one, which raised the van 75mm. I've got some pics of the project but am having trouble posting them, I've got them in photobucket, but can't get any further If you have the pics in Photobucket, just copy the IMG URL and paste it here in the thread, that's all you need to do.
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