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Post by tedalley on Apr 27, 2015 20:50:01 GMT 10
I wish I knew that technique before I painted my van.
I only used a roller -- but what the heck mine looks OK from 5mt away.
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Post by Mustang on Apr 28, 2015 9:18:12 GMT 10
Your on to it Tim. Its called roll and tip and works really well. Hers a small fibreglass laser yacht I rolled and tipped, cant see any reason why it would not work with a caravan Before  The After  Cheers Scotty What was the paint you used? eg; water based, gloss? |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2015 18:40:10 GMT 10
The paint is a marine paint, thinned with white spirits. International Brightsides. Dont see why a normal enamel paint wouldnt work too. Here is the link to the inspiration to do it www.eyeinhand.com/Marginalia/2011/06/27/painting-rolling-and-tipping/Theres a link at the bottom of the page to a youtube video on this method, sorry can only view on a PC. I dont know how it would go on a caravan, as you would need to keep the sun off it while you are doing it. Scotty |
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Post by Mustang on Apr 29, 2015 7:39:47 GMT 10
HMMM...painting a dinghy is one thing , a 17'x 8' caravan a bit different !! but I,m impressed with the results.
If one used a paint that was more forgiving in drying time then the results should be similar,
I guess its a confidence thing, could it be worse than where we have been with the reno? I would have a go on some scrap first.
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Post by tim on Apr 29, 2015 9:46:35 GMT 10
My old man uses the same technique on his boat, its a steel launch about 27ft, its not that hard, but really needs two people. I usually do the rolling and he brushes it out (because that's the hardest bit to get right and its his boat). The main thing is to be constantly monitoring the amount of paint going on. The whole time we're working he'll be telling me to put on more or less paint.
You need to be careful with the thinning. There's a technique for painting cars that kicks around on the internet known as the "hundred buck paint job", google it, you'll get a lot of hits. Its essentially the same method and can be used for tidying up old cars using enamel paint and a thinning additive like Penetrol that slows the drying and allows the brush marks to run out before it drys too quickly. However, with the thinning its important not to have too much of a good thing, otherwise the good stuff in the paint can get a bit too stretched and diluted and the paint doesn't hold up very well under UV.
Tim
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Post by Mustang on May 27, 2015 18:12:25 GMT 10
Bump
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Post by atefooterz on May 29, 2015 11:25:29 GMT 10
Back in April i saw 2 modern vans that i thought were food or show vans but it turns out they were the reno rumble tv show ones ( they were going the other way so only a few seconds to see). I saw a catch up of the show yesterday and the long knap textured roller finish looks great and on an older van would hide a few sins.
EDIT: Just a few thoughts about water washup paints, the main difference between a low sheen interior or exterior paint is mostly nil, those brands that do make interior paints (to a price/ market perception) have less viynl or latex in the base and or shorter cheaper polymer chain mix, seen in older days with rather chalky after a short period top surface. Instead of believing green shead sales folks i suggest using interior/exterior on any internal surface. I have painted many flats houses etc with unknown brand exterior paint, via ebay or trade recomended, so a 10 litre genuine washable paint becomes $45 to $65 retail price! Results over ten years and happy house/flat owners have shown this true.
A huge enemy of the classic van renovator is a product called Mr Sheen! This spray wax and kerosene mix was huge during the 1960-70s so many interiors have a thick ( in micrometer scale) build up. So that surface you want to paint onto maybe just a case of a good solvent or 100% scouring like wet and dry or even scotch brite to dull and remove any wax. If you are old school and still use sugar soap remember to really clean any trace of it off!!!!!!! I just use cloudy amonia, nearly 20 years shows that it removes mould grease and grime plus is fast, i mostly just spray using a second hand container like pray n wipe or any pump style then quickly wipe even then allow to dry. The next day if it looks good then just paint straight on as most acrylic paint loves ammonia to grip onto. If the surface is really rank then have a few goes at it over a few hours, i run a 70-90% mix with water as many lumps will onlyb dissolve with water, like starch build up (spagetti- rice water)
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