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Post by snoops on Nov 22, 2015 20:18:55 GMT 10
They are very spoilt. They are all tuckered out after running around the camp, so they are already tucked up in bed with SWMBO, hopefully there is enough room for me when I head to bed shortly.  |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 22, 2015 20:20:54 GMT 10
Hey Snoops, what size/output battery are you using to run the Franklin ? I'm trying to suss out what I will need. Basically I will run the internal lights, external light and charging phones etc.....
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Post by snoops on Nov 23, 2015 5:01:47 GMT 10
What I have, and what I need are 2 different things. I run a 140 watt solar panel on the roof running into 2 x 100AH Fullriver deep cycle batteries. I run the lights - 5 watt LED's, phone chargers, TV occasionally, pedestal fan on hot nights and the water pump. Everything but the water pump is 240 volt running through a Selectronic inverter. I've been away for 4 nights without the solar panel and still had 70% charge left in the batteries. I think I'll be pulling one battery out - I just don't need 2 of them in there. Each battery weighs 32Kg as well so there's a big weight penalty. I might stick the other one in the old Range Rover that I'll be using as the tow car shortly, but not 100% sure yet. if Imwas running my Engel I might leave the second battery in, but the old gas fridge has been fine so far, so I'm not looking to change that any time soon. Mind you, I'm very careful with my batty usage - I doubt I'd have the lights on for more than a couple of hours each night. Once tea is done, I turn the off and sit around the campfire. SWMBO says I'm paranoid about it all.  |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 23, 2015 8:35:43 GMT 10
Hi Snoops thanks for your info. Mate a dumb question, but whats the go with having the inverter ? Still getting my head around all of this ...
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Post by snoops on Nov 23, 2015 14:26:28 GMT 10
There's no such things as dumb questions, just questions you don't know the answers to. 2 reasons I run the inverter the way I do. First is that im a sparky so 240 volts is no dramas. Secondly is that the van was never wired out of the factory with 12 volts. The light fittings have the cutout for the 12 volt globe holder, but there's no holder and no wiring either. Simplest way for me to do everything was to run the whole show off an inverter. I don't ever use powered sites, even on the rare occasion we drop into a caravan park, so having the whole system run off batteries is most important to us. The switchboard has a 2 pole changeover switch in it so I can switch between the mains when at home and the inverter when I'm away. You can't do this mod with any cheap arse inverter, it needs to meet certain requirements and be wired correctly to be safe. I've got a Selectronic Inverter - big, heavy and expensive (Think over $1,000 for 600 watts and you get the idea), but absolutely the ducks guts in inverters - Aussie made too. It goes to sleep when the load goes under 4 watts, so it doesn't draw any power when not being use, like most inverters do. The solar panel on the roof keeps the batteries constantly charged when I'm not using them, so no charger is required when the van is sitting at home, but I do have a charger wired into the circuit if ever needed, but I've never used it - I had it kicking around for a few years, so that's where it ended up. Clear as mud? If I've missed anything, let me know, I'm happy to explain anything about the system, it works like a charm. I must get down your way one day and have a chat in person. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 23, 2015 18:27:49 GMT 10
Hi Snoops. Sounds pretty flash ! I've got the 12 v system running through the van and 240v. I'm hoping to keep it simple. There has been a system hooked up from previous owner. All is there except battery ( which they took). Wiring is abit dodgy, but I've just bought a small fuse box to use eventually. Plugged my Jump starter pack into it and all works, except outside dome light ( no 12v socket in it). I'm hoping to somehow mount a 12v socket into it....... I'm also thinking a cigarette type plug on the outside of the van to run extra lighting etc if needed. 2x cigarette/USB sockets at either end of the van (inside) and I should be set.. I'm thinking of 100 or 120AH battery with 140ish solar panel. What do you think ??
Would be good to catch up at some stage.. Was over your way about 3 weeks ago as we do sell a few bits to Hi Tensile
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2015 19:50:40 GMT 10
Snoops, I need a bit of help from you. I like to get a safety switch for my van and considering the Clipsal RCBM 216-30 like th one on the attached photo. The problem is that when I do a search on the net the switch show like the ones to put on a bar with the wires or connections exposed and not in the enclosure as is on the photo. Can you please point me a link from where I can order the switch with the enclosure? Thank you  |
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Post by snoops on Nov 23, 2015 19:51:48 GMT 10
Peter, Yep, a 100AH or so battery with 140 watt solar panel will be ideal. I use Hi Tensile a lot - they are a great bunch there. . What do you sell? |
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Post by snoops on Nov 23, 2015 20:00:30 GMT 10
Snoops, I need a bit of help from you. I like to get a safety switch for my van and considering the Clipsal RCBM 216-30 like th one on the attached photo. The problem is that when I do a search on the net the switch show like the ones to put on a bar with the wires or connections exposed and not in the enclosure as is on the photo. Can you please point me a link from where I can order the switch with the enclosure? Thank you Hi mate, all RCD's will be bare as you have seen. The pic shows one mounted in a 4CC2 Clipsal surface mount enclosure. You can get these from any Electrical Wholesalers or even eBay - www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLIPSAL-TWO-MODULE-INSULATING-COVER-BASE-4CC2-/262152177834?hash=item3d097cc8aa:g:0cwAAMXQWzNSmERaThe RCD can be bought from any Electrical Wholesaler too. The Clipsal units will be the most expensive - you can just ask for a budget 16 amp RCD/MCB if you want to save a few dollars. installing one I the van is a very good idea. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 23, 2015 20:06:37 GMT 10
Hi Snoops. I'm a rep for UES International (www.uesint.com). Transport body hardware. Locks, hinges, handles latches etc for trailer, truck, rail, bus.....
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2015 20:21:12 GMT 10
Thank you snoops,a budget RCD/MCB (perhaps made in China) will be reliable and safe as the Clipsal?
I will instal one, also a smoke and gas leak alarm are on the list.
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Post by mickmarsh on Nov 23, 2015 21:44:05 GMT 10
Thank you snoops,a budget RCD/MCB (perhaps made in China) will be reliable and safe as the Clipsal? I will instal one, also a smoke and gas leak alarm are on the list. I used to work in the industry. The company I worked from had a quality range and a budget range. The budget versions were somewhat lacking in quality. In the van, I would recommend you get a quality product for a safety device. I've got a PDF of how to wire it somewhere. I'll have a look. |
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Post by snoops on Nov 24, 2015 4:42:15 GMT 10
Hi Snoops. I'm a rep for UES International (www.uesint.com). Transport body hardware. Locks, hinges, handles latches etc for trailer, truck, rail, bus..... Cool, I know them well. Used plenty of their stuff at work in my time. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2015 7:09:03 GMT 10
Hi Snoops. I'm a rep for UES International (www.uesint.com). Transport body hardware. Locks, hinges, handles latches etc for trailer, truck, rail, bus..... Some cheap bits and pieces on that site for anyone making a fridge slide for their car! |
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Post by doublechevron on Nov 24, 2015 8:45:05 GMT 10
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Post by snoops on Nov 24, 2015 12:52:35 GMT 10
From the blurb on that site - "Our Mobile Safety Switch RCD for Caravan/Motorhomes adds additional monitoring of the earth wire, which allows it to work in mobile situations where conventional safety switches will not function. This ensures that both you and your vehicle are safeguarded against electrical faults." I wish they would explain this a bit more. I have a standard 30mA RCD in my van, and it works under all conditions it should - either off the mains, my inverter or a correctly wired and legal generator. This unit you have linked is designed to trip where no earth path exists back to the supply point - a big no no, but exists in cheap inverters and generators. If you have a cheap chinese inverter, pull the 240 volt socket out the front and take a look - chances are that there is nothing connected to the earth pin - running your van off something like this is very dangerous. To safely run an inverter as I do, it must have an earth, and also the neutral must be grounded to stop the supply floating. the earth of the inverter must be securely connected to the earth of all the electrical outlets, so in the event of a fault, the current flows down the earth back to the inverter and the RCD will trip. No earth on your inverter, no current flow, and the standard RCD will not trip - someone touching the supposedly earthed metal part of the faulty appliance is now a crispy critter... It just seems to be a band aid solution to a known problem, rather than addressing the real issue IMO. I would highly recommend people get their installations checked by someone who understands isolated power supplies - not just any Electrician - if they are modifying the 240 volt side of things and will be running off an inverter or generator. It's one of the reasons I generally don't go into too much detail about hard wired inverter systems - they can be dangerous and problematic if you don't understand what you are trying to achieve regarding fault current paths. My installation was fully tested in a variety of ways to ensure that the RCD would trip in all earth leakage circumstances. Also note that an RCD will not trip on a fault between active and neutral, it's not designed for that. |
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 24, 2015 18:42:33 GMT 10
For sure Sean. We have slides 45 kg, 125 kg and 227kg load rated in locking and non locking.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 24, 2015 18:44:22 GMT 10
Hey Snoops......Got me intrigued now, lol...... Who do you work for ?
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Post by snoops on Nov 24, 2015 20:56:28 GMT 10
I work as the Power Generation Product Specialist for Coates Hire. Isolated power supplies, and their control is what I do for a living. |
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Post by mickmarsh on Nov 24, 2015 21:23:30 GMT 10
From memory:
The ELCB senses the volt drop on the sensing coil caused by any stray currents to earth to operate.
The RCD senses any difference between the active and neutral currents to operate. The RCD protects from active to earth, not active to neutral.
ELCBs are less prone to nuisance trips than RCDs but RCDs are better than ELCBs
If you want any more detailed information, I'll have to look at my catalogues when I get home.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2015 6:28:01 GMT 10
You could probably figure out why my VSD is blowing up 26KW bore pump motors then Snoops! Going to need to stick a CRO on it and figure out just what the phases are doing for it to burning them out....
Looks like UES own one of my favorite little shops Myarrow1, I was poking around Fitch the Rubber Mans catalogue trying to find a cheaper price on the window rubbers and it looks like they're now a division of UES International.
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Post by myarrow1 on Nov 25, 2015 10:54:58 GMT 10
Yep thats correct Sean. UES purchased Fitch around 5 years ago...Great range of gear in the place
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Post by snoops on Nov 25, 2015 11:31:41 GMT 10
You could probably figure out why my VSD is blowing up 26KW bore pump motors then Snoops! Going to need to stick a CRO on it and figure out just what the phases are doing for it to burning them out.... How many motors have you lost? Also, has this only happened recently or has it been doing it at regular intervals for a long time? The quickest way to kill a motor is to have it poling - that is to loose or have low voltage on one phase. On an old school system, the THOL would protect against this, but that is also a function of the VSD. I would check the settings on the VSD - has the overload been set at the FLC of the motor (or just below is better). After that, depending on brand, you will have various other protection settings for the motor - if these aren't all set correctly for the motor, you can easily cook them as the VSD thinks it's doing nothing wrong. If you have a few more details, and the make and model of the motor and VSD I may be able to assist better. Checking the output with an Oscilloscope will show you that there will be a lot of distortion and noise depending on the speed level the VSD is running the motor at - an easier and better check would be to check to see if the voltage is even over the 3 phases at any given setpoint, although most VSD's will fault if the output is uneven. |
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Post by snoops on Dec 20, 2015 13:31:14 GMT 10
Ok, sweated it out for a couple of days on and off with the van. I've got a few things I want to finish before heading off on Boxing Day, so hot weather be damned, I needed to get stuff done. When I started on the ensuite area, I was just winging it with no real idea of anything apart from the existing room I had to play with. While measuring up the floor the other day, then browsing the Caravans Plus website I found a showerbase that looked like it would fit. I was originally going to do something myself, but with this looking the goods, I ordered one. Below clearly shows I fluked this...  Before I can wall off where the side windows were, I needed to rebuild them, reseal and put in some polycarbonate before screwing them shut permanently so I sorted those too. They have black polycarbonate in them - it will sort of match the other windows when they're done as I'm going to do them in a dark tint - just for the looks - I don't expect to keep the van any cooler by doing this.   I also found the original colour of the stripe - burnt orange - which I'm stoked about, because I was going to paint it that colour anyway.  As soon as the cool change comes through I'm back out there cutting the panel to cover up the windows inside. Once that's done, I can fit the shower base, and seal everything up so showers will be the order of the day. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2015 13:40:59 GMT 10
How you are going to waterproofing the walls is the shower?
In our motorhome we have used in the walls and floor vinyl special for that purpose and worked very well.
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