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Post by tasmillard on Apr 14, 2015 20:06:12 GMT 10
Looks great mustang, excellent finish.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2015 14:36:03 GMT 10
Hi tas millard,
With the caulking tape (mastic) I think the reverse, as you lay the tape to the edge of the frame, the screw's ooze the mastic to the edge, then its a matter of filling the hollows with the offcuts, using a soapy water spray to help. See Image:
Hi Brent, mate is that sealant tape easy to cut into small sections ? I have a roll coming but at 4mm thick it will not fill some of the Millard's profile so Im thinking about placing pieces in the deeper areas |
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Post by Mustang on Apr 15, 2015 16:35:29 GMT 10
Sealant tape is easy to cut , I imagine it has a backing.
This image is about caulking tape which is soft you just pull it apart.
If you need to seal a window frame I would check with the supplier that the tape you have ordered is actually for waterproofing?
Cheers
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Post by atefooterz on Apr 15, 2015 16:50:39 GMT 10
Interesting was chatting with a mobile caravan repair guy, he quoted me a fixed $150 to rip out reseal the rear double windows if original, $350 upwards if they have been "fixed" by someone and his record was just over $550 but lost out with time etc on a van not so long ago that was soildly glued in with a sika of sorts with much damage to the surrounds. He discovered this was the third attempt and much damage to the alloy was done by the owner a few weeks after he had done the first attempt. Repair guys mission was almost a year later with very cured sealant. Of note was water damage to timber frame from trapped water amongst the sealant- timber interface.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2015 17:06:10 GMT 10
Sealant tape is easy to cut , I imagine it has a backing. This image is about caulking tape which is soft you just pull it apart. If you need to seal a window frame I would check with the supplier that the tape you have ordered is actually for waterproofing? Cheers Sorry I meant the mastic stuff, cheers |
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Post by tasmillard on Apr 15, 2015 20:31:58 GMT 10
This is one of the main reasons I used sika, check out the Millard cladding profile. Yours mustang is a peace of cake to seal, but not this baby. Now I know theres lots of negatives about sika use, and most are due to improper application (mainly improper surface preparation). Now the same would be said about the mastic, if you didnt put in the small pieces with soap, if you didnt have that attention to detail, then there will be bitching about that product too. I am super happy with the sika on mine, NEVER EVER will it leak and I have also been told ads to the integrity to the van.  |
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Post by atefooterz on Apr 15, 2015 22:15:32 GMT 10
If / when i do mine, i would use sika as to replace a window you do not need to remove the frame from the caravan, as Tasmillard says prep is key. understanding the where and how water may get in is also important, by using sikka, like in this pic, no to minimal twist can occur that results in less chance of failure down the track.
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Post by Mustang on Apr 17, 2015 19:16:08 GMT 10
Very neat, that job should do you proud for years to come.
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Post by supreme78 on Apr 18, 2015 15:11:14 GMT 10
I have used sikaflex and the other sealants that dometic and the other manufacturers of components say to use. V60 is one thats sold by coast to coast. It's a special curing silicone that's natural curing. I installed my new heki hatches with this sealant. It's like silicone but not the stinky smell so it's obviously missing that chemical that is used to etch it to what your sealing. It still works well and easy to clean up after. I used sika when reselling windows in my van and it's top stuff. I would never have needed to remove the windows to reseal them if they had used it in the first place.
We used sika flex on wind turbine external sealing as it's got a life of 30 plus years.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2015 14:42:31 GMT 10
I also ordered some of the caulking tape to seal my van's door frame, I was worried that at 4mm thick it would not be enough to seal the profile of the Millard, so after cleaning everything and a bit of sanding etc I tried about 600mm of the tape in the middle of the upright of the frame after removing it I could see a few spots where the caulking had only barely been pressed. So to fix this problem I reviewed the way the frame fitted and soon hatched a plan. Firstly I knew the caulking strip was 13mm wide and the area inside the door frame was approx. 10/11mm so while placing the tape on the frame I was squeezing the tape down in size(side ways) which was making it thicker, as well as doing this I took a paddle pop stick and every couple of cm I would place the stick between the frame and the tape. This basically lets you put more tape down in a set length ie 110cm of tape into 100cm length of area. I then mounted the frame and with the lowest torque setting on my drill I tighten the screws' into place, then I reset the drill to a high torque setting and tighten them again and I did this 2 more times. This worked perfectly and I was left with a nice extruded edge of mastic that I removed with my stanley knife.
So if your van has a deep profile then these tips should fix that problem.
Cheers |
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Post by doublechevron on Jun 29, 2015 15:03:25 GMT 10
Champion. I think I follow. I know that tape you are referring to as I remember seeing it on caravans plus - and it sounds like what I have been scraping off the window frame since i removed it. Its still a bit soft/tacky. Like you I dont like the idea of silicon, and prefer to know that if I never need to remove a window it will be as simple as it was the first time. I have already bought replacement flyscreen and looks to be an exact match of the factory version. Has the same 'melted' in rubber/plastic surround that hooks over the frame of the window. Wedge and seal also purchased so now just awaiting some perspex. Havent decided where to go yet, but know bunnings would be an expensive way to go! Thanks a lot for this info. I will go back over your thread. Its already helped me to no end! No way use silicon on the windows.... I'd only do it the way I did. Personal preference of course  The way the butyl mastic hydraulics itself all the way through the frame to the inside of the caravan filling all voids has me sold. The foam edging protects the butyl from drying out. I don't like the idea of using any sort of mastic tape. your relying on using enough compression screwing down the tru molds to seal it. If you use a silicon/urethane/mastic the hydraulic pressure of screwing the mold down will force sealant into every void and gap ... so it would never leak (unless you used a mastic that can dry out or melt in the heat). seeya Shane L. |
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Post by awbeattie381 on Jul 1, 2015 13:45:12 GMT 10
Is butyl mastic easier to remove than silicone? The 'foam edge' you refer to the 'smooth tough skin' they advertise on the selleys website which stops it drying out? So what you are saying is the butyl mastic will form a better seal than the mastic tape used in the factory?
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Post by doublechevron on Jul 1, 2015 15:30:39 GMT 10
I just have this feeling mastic ribbon will fail as you can't "squeeze it" and force it through all the gaps. Here's how I did it .... I just followed cabcars instructions like a parrot.  foam seal from bunnings to contain and protect the rubber butyl sealer.  I found this wasn't enough ...  from the inside of the caravan, you can see it hasn't "hydraulic'd" right through the window surround.  so I whipped the window back out and pumped a shitload more sealer on there.  It squeezes all the way through to the inside of the caravan as you screw the window down. I can't see how this would ever leak. The window will always readily remove though as it doesn't "glue" it at all. I wonder how long it will take for the mastic to dry out again ? My guess is decades. seeya, shane L. |
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Post by doublechevron on Jul 1, 2015 16:52:01 GMT 10
Thanks, I was just thinking were hijacking the poor guys thread seeya, shane L. |
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Post by awbeattie381 on Jul 2, 2015 13:20:34 GMT 10
yep good work, I was thinking the same also!
Shayne, pics are very helpful. Love this forum for ideas and reading experiences! Im only on window 1 of 7 so great timing.
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Post by doublechevron on Jul 2, 2015 13:53:32 GMT 10
yep good work, I was thinking the same also! Shayne, pics are very helpful. Love this forum for ideas and reading experiences! Im only on window 1 of 7 so great timing. Tell me about it ... 7 ?? I have 9 windows, 2 four seasons hatches, 4 vent covers (metal ones ... the factory even installed the stove vent crooked LOL ) and all the lights to go. It's all fun right ? (lets not mention many, many, many meters of tru-lines to clean and reseal ). Actually I probably should pull the doorway out and reseal too... I can see the old concrete mastic all around it. seeya, Shane L. |
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Post by Mustang on Jul 2, 2015 18:23:33 GMT 10
Food for thought Shane. I havn't seen this method but very interesting to have the mastic ozzing through all the gaps.
Seems to justify ..how can it leak if all seams are full of sealer?
I might be tempted to perform this sealing on my remainders as a comparison to those done with "ribbon mastic".
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2015 18:35:12 GMT 10
I used the same method of tape and mastic on my 4 seasons hatch as recommended by cabcar a couple of yrs ago, no leaks.
Its actually easier than having an all mastic seal and leaves a cleaner line without the waste, just got to make sure the mastic oozes out the inside to get a perfect seal.
As for lasting forever I think cabcar said every 10 yrs to replace the mastic and what ever you do dont seal with a glue or silicone.
Scotty
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Post by awbeattie381 on Jul 3, 2015 13:31:14 GMT 10
I might be tempted to perform this sealing on my remainders as a comparison to those done with "ribbon mastic". Please do! Would love a report from someone who can weigh up the pros and cons!! |
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Post by kharde on Aug 2, 2015 22:41:29 GMT 10
I read substantial info when I resealed my van. Because of price... I limited my choices down to 3 options.
-Mastic was easier to work with and can be easily removed BUT it dries out after 5-10 yrs so will need resealing
-Roofing Silicone (What I used) is meant to last 20yrs (+) and has the added advantage that it can be removed (albiet with ALOT of effort). Turps definitely help when removing... (even on the dried stuff)
Sikaflex pro: 20yrs (+)... permanent - VERY hard to remove
As a result, I chose to use the cheap Roofing Silicone (I think $6/ tube). If re-sealing an entire van -> I'd recommend purchasing the Ryobi lithium ion caulking gun... made siliconing SO Much easier and much more accurate.
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Post by petrolfix on Nov 2, 2015 23:59:56 GMT 10
Sikaflex is best stored in the freezer. It extends the shelf life by about 12 months.
Up here in Townsville poly sealants only last about 3 month's on the shelf once opened. Sometimes there already hard in bunnings before the expired date.
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Post by Mustang on Nov 4, 2015 17:13:56 GMT 10
I might be tempted to perform this sealing on my remainders as a comparison to those done with "ribbon mastic". Please do! Would love a report from someone who can weigh up the pros and cons!! Hi AW, I decided to finish the van as started ie: stayed with the "ribbon mastic", the van unusually was out on the lawn hardeneing the paint recently & in came the rain, I checked every nook & cranny , no leaks. It may make a difference when we are wobbling about on the road but its good at this stage. Brent |
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Post by sama on Jul 11, 2016 11:14:43 GMT 10
I decided to tack onto this question with a question to keep it all together (pun intended)....What is an ideal seal? A) etch prime and paint,apply sika primer then stick j moulds on with sikaflex or B) apply sika primer,then sikaflex and j mould,mask up and paint. Ive had a bit of experience with sika products on roofs at work and it seems to stick to anything really,wipe down a box gutter and spread it on and it holds!But when its your own toy you want the best method i suppose. Obviously A)is the more practical method when it comes to a repaint.
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Post by doublechevron on Jul 11, 2016 13:21:15 GMT 10
Sikaflex is a brand name with a million and one varieties Which one? I'd use plain old roof and guttering silicon myself on the tru-molds. There going to be painful enough if you ever need to remove them when siliconed ... if you sikaflex them with an adhesive type of sikaflex. It's never coming apart again! Whatever you do ... only mastic for windows. Otherwise if they ever need repair, you will not be able to get them out seeya, Shane L. |
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Post by sama on Jul 11, 2016 13:41:17 GMT 10
The sikaflex tech guy has advised me a single pass with an alcohol swab is enough for prep over newly painted surfaces.Im using this product.Perhaps not on windows but on j mould and roof seams. Thanks  |
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The way the butyl mastic hydraulics itself all the way through the frame to the inside of the caravan filling all voids has me sold. The foam edging protects the butyl from drying out.