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Post by Mustang on Jan 14, 2015 16:55:07 GMT 10
Today I had to take "Vincent" to a welder. (photos to follow on site)
Noticed the brakes were next to nothing, so I checked out the spaghetti of wiring. Bits everywhere.
Renewed & soldered new wiring between the sides, adjusted up both pads until they locked then backed them off until the wheel spun free.
They work on full boost but the effect is not brilliant.
With our modern camper, & no boost, I can slide the manual control across on the Tekonsha & lock the camper up, with the Viscount it will only slow the unit down, slowly...sloowwlyyy.
Am I expecting too much or should I ditch the old units & renew, Caravans Plus have new assemblies from $77.00 each side , plus hubs, my hubs seem fine.
I expect my units are original, & the pads are probably glazed, but I have no love to keep the originals if I cant get them to work effectively.
The Viscount will never be lighter than it is at this stage of the resto.
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Post by Mustang on Jan 16, 2015 20:32:05 GMT 10
Not many brake specialists here?  ? |
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Post by atefooterz on Jan 16, 2015 22:19:16 GMT 10
I decided a heavy 6 speed transit van is the best way to tame a 16foot Arrow 950kg ish classic, so i do not bother with the overide, i may test it one day if i feel game, the arrow pulls up straight behind the diesel in a crash stop from 70klm ish fantastically, to avoid red light cameras, i have discovered,  |
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
Posts: 46 
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Post by leeron on Jan 16, 2015 23:17:33 GMT 10
The magnets are probably worn away or a combination of items.
Complete backing plate assemblies are the go. Check the drums are ok and replace the bearings and seals while your there to be safe.
If you pulled the old shoes out and put them back in front to back you will not have much braking as the brake surfaces would have to bed in all over again.
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Post by 2lateagain on Jan 17, 2015 10:50:32 GMT 10
Just a thought, have the backing plates been removed in the past and put back on the wrong side as they should have reasonable braking capacity assuming that they are not worn out totally if they are on the correct way round.
Graham
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Post by Mustang on Jan 17, 2015 18:59:53 GMT 10
The magnets are probably worn away or a combination of items. Complete backing plate assemblies are the go. Check the drums are ok and replace the bearings and seals while your there to be safe. If you pulled the old shoes out and put them back in front to back you will not have much braking as the brake surfaces would have to bed in all over again. The magnets are OK & the drum rubbing surface is OK The drum brake surfaces are reasonably smooth. I think I may have conservatively adjusted the pads too far away from the drum. I will readjust tomorrow & test. Graham, They appear to be correct? is there an obvious look that they are not? |
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Post by Rattles on Jan 17, 2015 21:27:49 GMT 10
The Backing Plates should be marked L & R on the back side of the backing plate.
Rattles
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
Posts: 46
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Post by leeron on Jan 17, 2015 23:10:33 GMT 10
You should have the pad with the lesser amount of brake material facing forward.
check all your wiring is heavy enough gauge wire and that the ground pin and brakevoltage pin on the trailer plug is clean and spread open so when plugged in is a tight fit.
If the van hasn't been towed for a while do the 40 kmh manual over ride lever on off thing for a few laps of the block.
if the drums have made the wheels hot to touch then they are trying to do their job.
What size wheel tyre combination do you have on the van?
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Post by Mustang on Jan 24, 2015 17:49:50 GMT 10
You should have the pad with the lesser amount of brake material facing forward. check all your wiring is heavy enough gauge wire and that the ground pin and brakevoltage pin on the trailer plug is clean and spread open so when plugged in is a tight fit. If the van hasn't been towed for a while do the 40 kmh manual over ride lever on off thing for a few laps of the block. if the drums have made the wheels hot to touch then they are trying to do their job. What size wheel tyre combination do you have on the van? Hi leeron, Hopefully this thread has moved on with the purchase of new 10" brakes & drums. I cant get out to try yet, so will keep all informed of progress. The wheels & hubs are 14" HT Holden, Tyres are a miss-match, one is a passenger the other a new LT tyre. I will get another LT to match. |
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leeron
In Training
1966 Duralvan
Posts: 46
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Post by leeron on Jan 24, 2015 23:37:59 GMT 10
Nice, new drums and backing plate assemblies is the go.
while you have all that stuff off the axle, it might be worth taking the axle off the leaves (with wheels re-attached)and rotating the axle to check the axle isn't bent out of alignment. If the axle is bent the wheels (sitting on the ground) will turn in and out slightly as you rotate the axle 360 degrees.
Not bad to check now instead of finding new tyres getting scrubbed out once you get her on the road.
180 bucks for a new axle is a lot cheaper than killing tyres or paying for axle bending alignment at a later date.
Leon
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Post by Rattles on Jan 25, 2015 6:52:38 GMT 10
Nice, new drums and backing plate assemblies is the go. while you have all that stuff off the axle, it might be worth taking the axle off the leaves (with wheels re-attached)and rotating the axle to check the axle isn't bent out of alignment. If the axle is bent the wheels (sitting on the ground) will turn in and out slightly as you rotate the axle 360 degrees. Not bad to check now instead of finding new tyres getting scrubbed out once you get her on the road. 180 bucks for a new axle is a lot cheaper than killing tyres or paying for axle bending alignment at a later date. Leon Yes this a very simple and effective method of testing a axle is straight. Used this very same method 20 years ago to prove to a Camper Trailer Manufacturer that the axle on a Camper was bent. Rattles |
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Post by Mustang on Jan 25, 2015 17:12:02 GMT 10
Nice, new drums and backing plate assemblies is the go. while you have all that stuff off the axle, it might be worth taking the axle off the leaves (with wheels re-attached)and rotating the axle to check the axle isn't bent out of alignment. If the axle is bent the wheels (sitting on the ground) will turn in and out slightly as you rotate the axle 360 degrees. Not bad to check now instead of finding new tyres getting scrubbed out once you get her on the road. 180 bucks for a new axle is a lot cheaper than killing tyres or paying for axle bending alignment at a later date. Leon Yes this a very simple and effective method of testing a axle is straight. Used this very same method 20 years ago to prove to a Camper Trailer Manufacturer that the axle on a Camper was bent. Rattles Thanks for the heads up concerns guys, I have a square axle with a 39 mm round welded on top of it? Sems original, may not be?? Measured front to back & back to front all seems OK. the original tyres show no signs of scrubbing. After we return from the chassis blaster & most of the crap is off the u bolts , I will look at the exercise, don't think I could move the lock nuts at the moment. Thank you for your concerns its appreciated. |
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Post by Rattles on Jan 25, 2015 19:11:51 GMT 10
Remember to Always Use New U Bolts and Nuts when if you remove the U Bolts.
Rattles
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